not a caferacer

lynxnsu · May 16, 2011

forks are done , bolts at the bottom of bottom yoke are now m5 as I could't find what they originaly were and 2 were broken off inside anyway.

The second pic is a "tool" i made quite a few years ago and forgot about as I had no Roadholders on the road
It is a simple but effective way of filling yours forklegs with the SAME amount of oil
It is simply a set of old topnuts drilled and a tube welded on top

ps holes at bottom of the tubes (conical bit ) are now blocked , as sugested ,thanks again
will report how they react

lynxnsu · May 21, 2011

the battery tray and oiltank have been modified ,along with the tooltray
the tooltray now supports the rear mudguard as it can no longer be supported by the tang welded on the tube holding the rear upper engineplates support
in the battery now lives an oilfilter and the oiltank-return is modified
the return now is no longer at the front but in the back of the tank ,the return)tube running through the oiltank to the front and ending within sight of the fillerneck .it is ofcourse blocked at the end and 2 holes are drilled as in std commando fashion

the tooltray of a bolt-on featherbed and a welded one are different Something i found out the hard way
the difference is 6mm in wideness (wrong word but you get my meaning)
so i cut it along its lenght and rewelded it ,6mm narrower

the oiltank is now no longer supported on the engineplates but hung up on the tooltray ,wich is in turn bolted to the frame
one can see the 3 supporting lugs on top of it

lynxnsu · May 31, 2011

just finished the dry build before everything goes to the blaster
the crankcases have been treated to a steel ring shrunk round the boss of the main bearings as that is where they first let go
Also the base has been machined so that the base is parrallal to the big ends (the pistons then go UP instead of being pushed up a bore not in line with the crankshaft)

while everything is away to be blasted I can go along building the engine etc
The primary drive is going to give some problems....

Jeandr · May 31, 2011

lynxnsu said:
The primary drive is going to give some problems....

Why :?:

Jean

lynxnsu · Jun 1, 2011

Well as I am going to use a belt to avoid oilleaks , the primary chaincase is not wide enough to accomodate one (30mm)
so i can widen (extend)the chaincase or modifie the belt pulleys
also I could space the case out by machining an alloy ring around that steel ring (round the bearingboss) so that the front pulley is VERY close to the backside of the case (and of course so will the clutch )
Or I could cut the back away from the chaincase, but that is really the last option
an aditional problem is the ignition as i am going to fit an ignition incorparated in an alternator (built in spain ) this includes a rotor wich triggers the coils on the stator, but therefore it is adjustable on the crankshaft,and that adjustment is LARGE so i may have to modifie
and of course whatever i do ,it will alter the position of the footrest as that is mounted on the pillion wich goes through the chaincase (mounted on the engineplates)so that pillion needs mods as well

as you know Jean ,change one thing and it creates an waterfall of other things to modifie as well

But then again that makes it fun

Jeandr · Jun 3, 2011

lynxnsu said:
as you know Jean ,change one thing and it creates an waterfall of other things to modifie as well

But then again that makes it fun

Indeed, please post pictures as you go along

Jean

jseng1 · Jun 4, 2011

lynxnsu said:
jseng1 said:

To avoid clonking fill the small 1/8" holes in the fork tube near the bottom. Drive something oversize into them. I don't know why these exist - they are useless and make no sense. Without them you get a hydraulic stop and the clonking is gone.

Click to expand...

thanks for the advice
But the clonking I mean is on full extension , not compression ,because the rods are no longer attached to the top nuts

Full extension clonking is exactly what I'm talking about and the cure is in my quote above (and previous post) - because the holes I'm talking about are in the tubes -- not the dampners. And without the holes you get a hydraulic stop at Full extension when the upper fork bushings compresses oil against the lower fork bushings. All Norts should get this upgrade and manufactures should stop drilling the 1/8" holes in the for tubes near the bottom. They work much better without them.

And if you really want to get trick. Loose those sticky wear prone bronze bushings and go to Turkite.

Jim S

jeffdavison · Jun 4, 2011

Are they available at your web-store?

JD

jseng1 said:
lynxnsu said:

jseng1 said:

To avoid clonking fill the small 1/8" holes in the fork tube near the bottom. Drive something oversize into them. I don't know why these exist - they are useless and make no sense. Without them you get a hydraulic stop and the clonking is gone.

Click to expand...

thanks for the advice
But the clonking I mean is on full extension , not compression ,because the rods are no longer attached to the top nuts

Click to expand...

Full extension clonking is exactly what I'm talking about and the cure is in my quote above (and previous post) - because the holes I'm talking about are in the tubes -- not the dampners. And without the holes you get a hydraulic stop at Full extension when the upper fork bushings compresses oil against the lower fork bushings. All Norts should get this upgrade and manufactures should stop drilling the 1/8" holes in the for tubes near the bottom. They work much better without them.

And if you really want to get trick. Loose those sticky wear prone bronze bushings and go to Turkite. I use teflon impregnated bronze for the bottom bushings as described in my race manual but someone should try Turkite down there as well.

Jim S

jseng1 · Jun 4, 2011

Jeff said:

"Are they available at your web store?"

Yes

They are now available at jsmotorsport.com

jeffdavison · Jun 4, 2011

will they be?
I'm just now tearing into rebuilding my front end, putting in a pair of Frank's Fork, new seals, steering head bearings, and the Landsdown dampners. Now would be the ideal time for me to do the bushings.
Hate to tear things down a couple of times for basically the same work.

JD

jseng1 said:
Jeff said:

"Are they available at your web store?"

No - but they should be the way I go on about them. I would also like to offer cranks - but I just can't do everything.

jseng1 · Jun 4, 2011

The problem is the cost of Turkite. I paid around $70 for a foot of it - I can't remember or sure. Add machining costs and something for the trouble and its pricey. But I'll check into it. I'm guessing It would come out around $20 a bushing. Maybe more. Do you think thrifty old school Nort heads could handle that?

jeffdavison · Jun 4, 2011

I personally don't have a problem.

JD

jseng1 said:
The problem is the cost of Turkite. I paid around $70 for a foot of it - I can't remember or sure. Add machining costs and something for the trouble and its pricey. But I'll check into it. I'm guessing It would come out around $20 a bushing. Maybe more. Do you think old school Nort heads could handle that?

pelican · Jun 4, 2011

jseng1 said:
The problem is the cost of Turkite. I paid around $70 for a foot of it - I can't remember or sure. Add machining costs and something for the trouble and its pricey. But I'll check into it. I'm guessing It would come out around $20 a bushing. Maybe more. Do you think thrifty old school Nort heads could handle that?

that's only $2-3 more than the bronze, a lot of people would probably try them

jseng1 · Jun 4, 2011

I've started the process. I like offering unique products that work better. The turkite is much more slippery - to the point where you notice the diff in the ride. They are available now at jsmotorsport.com

Jim Schmidt

bwolfie · Jun 4, 2011

http://www.professionalplastics.com/TURCITEARODBLUE

A little cheaper, but I don't know what shipping would be. Lots of it shows up on google shopping, both red and blue.

lynxnsu · Jul 4, 2011

just a pic to show the mag being put on .The magneto is actual only half ,the rest had to be cut away because the crankcases are so much taller But like this i can let the breather and the HT leads come out of the bottom

Hope you can see what i mean . Cutting the mag turned out to be not so easy......

this is the primary sorted (well sort off) I decided to go for spacing the primary case out as far as possible (what turned out to be 9mm)
you can spot also the 2 rings ,one steel and the other alloy.The steel is drilled to mount the pillars onto wich the alternator/ignition will be mounted . One of those pillars only just misses the belt but for a number of reasons i could not put them anywhere else

Hobot · Jul 4, 2011

All the belt drives barely miss a inner case flange or the alternator post. Should be non issue but maybe some dust as belts can take a lot of abuse to their flat sides, just not their edges.

Nice 'swoopy' cradle, has lots of space for ventilation holes.

grandpaul · Jul 5, 2011

"Inspiring".

Keep it up!

lynxnsu · Jul 16, 2011

barell is now ready to be fitted ,i radiused everything off and fitted the regrinded camfollowers . I always number them so when i take it apart i can verify which one is doing what . They were also made lighter
and as John would have said ; now it belongs to somebody

the head is being sorted as well . i forgot that it was a big valve job (useless but that is what i got and before i realised it i had already machined the carburetor flanges so that they were as vertical as possible . This because i am fitting a pair of Monoblocs , bored out from 28mm to 31.5 mm , by Marrtin Bratby (lovely job he did once again )

by machining the carb-flanges , the studs to fix carbs to head were no longer in the right angle , so i filled the original holes up and made this help to make sure i drilled the new ones as perfectly at 90 degrees as possible ( for me)

lynxnsu · Jul 18, 2011

just got the frame and a few other bits back from the painter . The paint was more than 25 years old but still ok . The colour is polychromatic grey , bought from Lewis and Templeton when they did the fueltank back in 85 .
I was expecting bad news from the paint but .....

the engine is also coming together
the crank has got a regrind (-20) the conrods are matched , as are the pistons and the lot is balanced at 70 %

the crank is a mk2 , cases are mk3 , so i had to shim 3.7mm out ,each side 1.7mm left me with just enough endfloat
The main bearings ,superblends of coarse , are fag but made in India . Hope they will be okay but i have even found russian bearings in some engines ,in good nick , so i am not too worried
any-one got any info on those indian bearings?

now i am off on holiday , rather stay home and work on the Domi , but SHMBO has decided we have to see Vienna....

not a caferacer

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