Norton Villiers Commando 1968 Re commissioning an adventures at 30

Thanks guys I really do appreciate the help :) an yep I know what you mean about the FB groups had the full gamut of things on them took some measurements this morning.

0.120" rh inlet Head squish / counterbore band to Head gasket face above inlet


0.072" head gasket face to outside casting

Piston deck height 0.047"

Inlet port 28mm :)

So with a bit of my rubbish maths haha 0.095" piston to Head clearance (using 0.050" for the piston to deck height) thats squish/counterbore 0.120" + 0.25" head gasket - piston to deck height 0.50 = 0.095" :)

Out of interest whats stock and when you guys a tuning what so people tend to aim for interesting learning about it all.
 
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I can’t comment on what’s stock, but I’m guessing you have removed minimal material so you’ll get a small, but frankly un-noticeable performance increase.

If building a serious performance engine, the squish becomes important. There are different opinions on this but IMHO anything above 0.060” isn’t really working. 0.040” and below is required for the squish to work properly. I set mine up at 0.032-0.034” IIRC.

One of the big benefits of squish is that it allows a higher compression ratio than would otherwise be possible on pump fuel. I’m running 11.1 in my 920 road bike, using pump fuel, and it’s fine.

But back to yours, you do not wanna be going down that route. Keep it as it is, at 0.095” clearance the only way your pistons are gonna touch the head is if the rod breaks !

Good to see you’ve got the proper port sizes too.

Get those valves and guides ordered and carry on!

BTW Matchless’ advice is good, I fitted my first valve guides when I was 15. In my Dads shed with zero special tools...
 
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Thanks Eddie Really appreciate the advice Kenny from NYC commented on my Instagram and echoed what you said.

I know I've said it before but I really do appreciate the advice you are all giving me.

Never stop learning thats for sure :)

Yep its acquiring use of the cooker as well that's the problem lol! Engines an motorbikes in in the bedrooms are ok but the cooker is where the line is drawn in the sand ha! Might look into a small one on ebay.
 
norton_rider said:
Thanks Eddie Really appreciate the advice Kenny from NYC commented on my Instagram and echoed what you said.

I know I've said it before but I really do appreciate the advice you are all giving me.

Never stop learning thats for sure :)

Yep its acquiring use of the cooker as well that's the problem lol! Engines an motorbikes in in the bedrooms are ok but the cooker is where the line is drawn in the sand ha! Might look into a small one on ebay.
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I've used gas grill to keep the parts out of the kitchen. Also set parts on top of a kerosene heater - but they don't get as hot as the grill.
-George
 
That's a good Idea George I'll look to getting one be handy for other bits and bob's. Just been looking at tabletop ovens to look reasonable if I can find one big enough that's not to much money.
 
norton_rider said:
That's a good Idea George I'll look to getting one be handy for other bits and bob's. Just been looking at tabletop ovens to look reasonable if I can find one big enough that's not to much money.
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All you need in that head is a new set of guides and valves (if the valves are worn) check the valve spring length aswell
If you fit the guides yourself then research it first
It's an easy enough job to do,easy to get wrong aswell
And don't forget how old the cylinder head is
Don't even think about drifting the guides out cold!!
And as already said in this post, measure the guides properly and order the new ones
And use a reputable supplier
Cheers
 
norton_rider said:
Thanks Eddie Really appreciate the advice Kenny from NYC commented on my Instagram and echoed what you said.

I know I've said it before but I really do appreciate the advice you are all giving me.

Never stop learning thats for sure :)

Yep its acquiring use of the cooker as well that's the problem lol! Engines an motorbikes in in the bedrooms are ok but the cooker is where the line is drawn in the sand ha! Might look into a small one on ebay.
Click to expand...
The great Alan Millyard used a barbeque with a lid as a neat oven!
 
I was just actually reading about the tool in Norman's book :) looks like Andover is out of stock unless I had the wrong part number. I'll have a word with the lads at Norvil n see if they have any of the tools in before I try an do it :)

What brand of cutters are you guys using for the valve seats?
 
Yep I've got a few more numbers to phone today mate for a comparison for the price I've got currently. As you say weigh up all the options then pick the most cost effective one. Really excited to get her running again.
 
One thing I was considering lads was replacing the oil pump noticed there's quite a bit of play in the oil pump shaft with the worm gear on it.

I'll update on the course of action with the head once I've got some more prices in on the options.

Another thing I was wondering everyone with the primary casing alignment it mentions use shims behind etc but with lots of washers being wrong so far is there a good starting point amount wise with the ones from A/N when I get the g&s valves ill get some at the same time to fit on.

Connectors came today for the wiring loom so gonna have a look at the routing on that the day after tomorrow.

Want to replace the emgo headlight at some point as well but that can wait for the future.
 
IMHO, unless you have the skills and time to properly strip and repair the pump as is posted elsewhere, a new one is a very good idea, they’re not even very expensive, especially when you consider the cost of failure !

Ref the chain case stud shims, you fit the chaincase stud with no shims, then bolt the chain case up tight to the crank case (with gasket), then see how much play you have on the stud. You add shims until the case is JUST supported; it’s neither being pulled in or pushed out by the shims on the stud. Chaincase might have to come off / on a few times, but it’s not a difficult thing to do to get right.
 
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Thanks Eddie that's great info, yep I'll stick a new pump on that was my thinking to for the level of protection it will offer :)

I'll get some of the correct ones ordered ready for that once the engine is in.
 
Why not just look inside the pump you have first and check the rotor housing and gear condition (which I personally would do on a new oil pump anyway)

£172.95 + VAT is far from cheap and they are listed as Out of Stock on the AN website.
 
Thanks mate ill have to check it out n have a think got a huge trip planned which will include a fair bit of autobahn work to get where I'm after going so considering the reliability on it :) first thing though is sorting the head out popped a few emails off to get some more prices on getting the guides done. Worst case I'll buy a little worktop cooker if I can find ine big enough bit of a shame as I was flying on the rebuild. Spent the weekend painting my rd350lc tank :)
 
It is not really an at home job unless you spend some cash and then there is the possibility of oversizing the guide bores at extraction and the guides would still need reaming (if a ream-able material) then the seats cut which is expensive tooling (that might never be used again)

You really need to find someone not only familiar with these heads (750 is probably a little more forgiving with the guide diameter compared to a 850) but someone who will look after it in a professional manner.

I would recommend (again) Kibblewhite guides and Black Diamond valves but the guide sizing is a little tricky due to the material used.

You might want to order a 26 tooth front sprocket for the Autobahn.
 
26 tooth !?!?

On balance, I think that’s good advice regarding getting the head work done by a proper Norton pro, I second that.

Seager Eng is good advice. But don’t forget about your uncle Mick and uncle Norm...
 
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