Norton 961 shift linkage broke

Jkal said:
Well, thats the catch, the joints on the original shift linkage on my 2016 are different. See below
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You just need some bolts. Remove the pins that those old ones locate onto and replace with nuts n bolts.
 
This is the repair I did on Jkal's rod. I just copied what Stu posted on his process. For others who want to try it, my only warning would be to expect some difficulty drilling and tapping the rod. I don't know which stainless alloy it is, but it was pretty tough to cut. I ended up using carbide drills for the initial drilling, and cobalt alloy drills to finish it to size. It also took a lot of care to tap the threads. I did end up breaking the first tap, and had to mill it out with a 4.5 mm carbide end mill . Fortunately, I was able to remove it without damaging the threads. I was more careful with the second tap. :rolleyes:

This is the mill setup I used.

Norton 961 shift linkage broke


Drilled and tapped.

Norton 961 shift linkage broke


And the finished repair.

Norton 961 shift linkage broke


Norton 961 shift linkage broke


Ken
 
City Garage said:
Five pages on this.... Its like an oil thread. 😂
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That's nothing. I can make it worse. As in, did I ever tell you about the titanium shift rod I made for my 961 to replace the one that broke when I had a crash and couldn't get a re[;acement? We could probably go on for pages about whether I used the right Ti alloy, and if I put a proper stress relief groove at the base of the threads, and why was the bend a little different, and shouldn't I have polished it, and why didn't I use titaniium spherical rod ends (yes, that's a real thing), etc. Then we might approach the level of the lesser oil threads. But life is short, and I have to move on to other things. Maybe another thread on the best tires for Nortons.😆

Ken
 
lcrken said:
This is the repair I did on Jkal's rod. I just copied what Stu posted on his process. For others who want to try it, my only warning would be to expect some difficulty drilling and tapping the rod. I don't know which stainless alloy it is, but it was pretty tough to cut. I ended up using carbide drills for the initial drilling, and cobalt alloy drills to finish it to size. It also took a lot of care to tap the threads. I did end up breaking the first tap, and had to mill it out with a 4.5 mm carbide end mill . Fortunately, I was able to remove it without damaging the threads. I was more careful with the second tap. :rolleyes:

This is the mill setup I used.

View attachment 108222

Drilled and tapped.

View attachment 108225

And the finished repair.

View attachment 108223

View attachment 108224

Ken
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Yeah it's pretty tough going....I do mine with a hand drill though, as I struggle to get them square in my small pillar drill.
 
lcrken said:
That's nothing. I can make it worse. As in, did I ever tell you about the titanium shift rod I made for my 961 to replace the one that broke when I had a crash and couldn't get a re[;acement? We could probably go on for pages about whether I used the right Ti alloy, and if I put a proper stress relief groove at the base of the threads, and why was the bend a little different, and shouldn't I have polished it, and why didn't I use titaniium spherical rod ends (yes, that's a real thing), etc. Then we might approach the level of the lesser oil threads. But life is short, and I have to move on to other things. Maybe another thread on the best tires for Nortons.😆

Ken
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Ken!!! anyways are you going to Bonneville this year?
 
City Garage said:
Ken!!! anyways are you going to Bonneville this year?
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I wish! But probably not. Had some major disruptions in my life this year, when we had to move my wife to a memory care facility with advanced dementia. Still adjusting to that. But I am trying to get the bike back together in time for the El Mirage meet in September, with hope to get to Bonneville again in 2024.

Ken
 
Very smart repairs!!! I'll just wear lighter boots.and not mash it down.
God's gonna punish m for that. It'll break tomorrow.
 
Does the rod actually need to be stainless? I’m certain it could be aluminum with stainless threaded inserts at each end. Maybe bump it up to 10mm to be sure.
 
Stu Bodycote said:
Nope, I've just ordered and paid for 10. Lead time of 4-6wks, so hopefully I dont suddenly need a few.
Belt drive is for mopeds and invalid carriages....chain drive is for motorcycles 🤣
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Hi Stu , Any news on front sprocket for the Norton 961 ? Do you have a source for them ? Thanks .
 
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