No power at Tri-Spark

gatsby

gatsby

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Hi,
I have wired my 1974 Norton as per Grant Tiller’s diagram. Tri-spark, three phase stator, and Lucas R/R. All electrical works, but I’m not getting power to tri-spark (no LED red light when rotating motor, and test function does not produce spark).

I plugged in LH switch gear wire White / Yellow into harness White / Blue. Then, harness white / blue into a link wire, and into Black / Yellow of Tri-Spark. Coils are wired as per the drawing, and I have connected a wire from a negative coil down to tri-spark black / white. Tri- spark red wire is grounded on the cover and pillar screw for now. Electrical certainly is my weak point. Any thoughts?
Many Thanks!
Gatsby
 
gatsby said:
Hi,
I have wired my 1974 Norton as per Grant Tiller’s diagram. Tri-spark, three phase stator, and Lucas R/R. All electrical works, but I’m not getting power to tri-spark (no LED red light when rotating motor, and test function does not produce spark).

I plugged in LH switch gear wire White / Yellow into harness White / Blue. Then, harness white / blue into a link wire, and into Black / Yellow of Tri-Spark. Coils are wired as per the drawing, and I have connected a wire from a negative coil down to tri-spark black / white. Tri- spark red wire is grounded on the cover and pillar screw for now. Electrical certainly is my weak point. Any thoughts?
Many Thanks!
Gatsby
Click to expand...
Connect the Black/Yellow from the Tri-spark to a white wire and see if the test works.
 
Last edited:
Thank you Greg and LAB for your quick response. I tapped into a white connection in my headlight, and the test function worked!!

I wired direct to white yellow, and I got no power. Can I just wire to white and call it a day, or how do I troubleshoot the bad connection with the white yellow? Digging into the switchgear I’m guessing?

Thanks!
 
gatsby said:
I wired direct to white yellow, and I got no power. Can I just wire to white and call it a day,...
Click to expand...

Yes, you can connect to white but then you'd have no kill switch.

gatsby said:
...or how do I troubleshoot the bad connection with the white yellow? Digging into the switchgear I’m guessing?
Click to expand...

If power is reaching the kill switch through white but there's no power reaching the white/yellow terminal as you've said then either the switch is probably faulty (dirty, broken or burnt contacts) or a (white or white/yellow) soldered connection inside the switch cluster could be broken.
 
Thanks again LAB - I’m still using the original Lucas Bullet Terminal on white yellow, so I’ll try cutting off and crimping on a new one. The soldering in the switch looked sound when I pulled it apart yesterday, so I’m hoping it’s just the connector.

Thanks!!!
 
This is a spare dismantled switch I have at work. I’m I right by thinking the correct contact point (that may need cleaning) is in the below picture?
No power at Tri-Spark
 
gatsby said:
I’m I right by thinking the correct contact point (that may need cleaning) is in the below picture?
Click to expand...

I can't be absolutely sure as I don't have one of those switch clusters. If it is then the contacts should be closed with continuity between the white and white/yellow wires or the soldered terminals as it is.
 
L.A.B. said:
I can't be absolutely sure as I don't have one of those switch clusters. If it is then the contacts should be closed with continuity between the white and white/yellow wires or the soldered terminals as it is.
Click to expand...
Perfect - this helps me out a lot. Now to dive on in when I get home from work....
 
A terminal cleaner such as Deoxit is very handy here - specialized stuff that cleans and dries up nicely. Be sparing with the sandpaper on those terminal contact plates and wash it out with the cleaner. Test using an Ohm meter at the White (pwr) in and Yellow/White (kill) out with ignition off.
 
Jdub said:
A terminal cleaner such as Deoxit is very handy here - specialized stuff that cleans and dries up nicely. Be sparing with the sandpaper on those terminal contact plates and wash it out with the cleaner. Test using an Ohm meter at the White (pwr) in and Yellow/White (kill) out with ignition off.
Click to expand...
And use ULTRA FINE sandpaper, 800/1000.
 
Well upon close inspection of the contact point within the switch, it is apparent that I have made an oversight when I vapor cleaned my switches. I rinsed and blew with compressed air after I cleaned it, however I did not think about bead getting wedged in due to the spring action of the contact point.



I carefully hooked out the grit while pushing on the contact point, and it came right out. I then grabbed the appropriate gear as per JDub and Conourse, and then did one pass on each contact, followed by a squirt of DeoxIT. I was going to purchase the burnishing tool, however I had the wet dry paper at home (I saved $10.99). I then crossed my fingers, connected the white yellow, and flicked the ignition. And….spark!!!!

Many thanks for all of the help and suggestions. It is very much appreciated.
Cheers,
Gatsby

No power at Tri-Spark

No power at Tri-Spark

No power at Tri-Spark

No power at Tri-Spark
 
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