Boyer issues? Or not?

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He says he's getting spark so either the spark is occurring at the wrong time or there is no fuel.
Yes, that was my reasoning that timing had been set to the wrong mark on rotor. So spark is happening at 180 deg from correct location.
For that to happen when the ignition was apparently working normally beforehand then the Boyer rotor would have to be removed and reset incorrectly but there's been no mention (so far) of the Boyer rotor having been removed and replaced at any stage of the work done on the primary side so the ignition timing shouldn't have changed.
But he has apparently re-timed the static timing since "taking engine down" so potentially now in un-runable state.
 
Spray a whiff of starting fluid in there.
Pop? More fuel is needed.

Pull each plug, dribble a teaspoon of gas down there.
Start & run 1-3 seconds?
More gas.
I use a squirt bottle. Hey, if it was good enough for Austin Coyle, good enough for me. View attachment 98620
I see you've got your flame resistant skin on there ;-)
 
But he has apparently re-timed the static timing since "taking engine down" so potentially now in un-runable state.

However, the pictures in post #17 seem to show it was retimed correctly (the third pic. apparently shows the piston close to TDC).
 
However, the pictures in post #17 seem to show it was retimed correctly (the third pic. apparently shows the piston close to TDC).
Trying to recall what the other lug on the rotor looks like. Looks similar don't it?
 
Trying to recall what the other lug on the rotor looks like. Looks similar don't it?

Yes, it is.
Boyer issues? Or not?
 
Also...the correct timing mark on an original rotor is easy to identify as it is adjacent to the "LUCAS" mark just visible behind the timing scale, however, Lucas on the latest rotor (above) isn't in the same position.
Boyer issues? Or not?
 
Static timing set to mark thru counter clockwise hole at 31 deg BTDC on the compression stroke.

I did have the rotor off to run the magnet tests and every other test in this article:
So the boyer plate and stator have been removed and reinstalled.
Boyer issues? Or not?


I think somethings gone awry with the timing along the way.
The engine rotor set to wrong scribe line, degree wheel check for 31 against the cover scale or the reinstallation of the boyer stator & plate.

couple notes I have about using a degree wheel:
- Mount your degree wheel and pointer, put the bike in gear and turn the rear wheel until the left piston is in its compression stroke and at its highest point. You can find the compression stroke by putting your finger over the spark plug hole and feeling for air being pushed out. Roll the piston back down enough to install the piston stop. Roll the piston forward until it contacts the stop. Record the degrees from the degree wheel. Turn the wheel in the opposite direction until it contacts the stop again. Record the degrees on your degree wheel. The distance exactly between these numbers is TDC. Remove the stop and turn the rear wheel until the piston is at its TDC location, turn the wheel to back the engine to 32-33 before TDC and carefully bump it forward again to 31 degrees for the Boyer static timing at 31 BTDC. Remove degree wheel and install the primary cover to read the degree plate where the alternator rotor mark is at. This is true 31 degrees BTDC. Record this number and use it to strobe the engine.
Example: 34 degrees read on degree plate is actually 31 degrees. Strobe to this 34 degree mark for 31 degrees.

- You can attach the degree wheel in any manner that works so it doesn’t move as the engine is rotated.
On an 850, a 3/8 drive 10mm socket I had worked fine by simple pushing it on, it had a tight enough friction fit.

- Use a wire as a pointer.
If you are doing this for a Commando, don't leave the crank at TDC as you mount the outer cover. There is no reference for TDC on the scale, it goes from 20 to 40, so after you are confident you have the wheel "calibrated" to 0 at TDC, use the pointer (which you've been careful not to disturb yet) and turn the crank to 31 BTDC. Now you can remove the pointer, and holding the crank still, remove the disk, remount the outer cover and see if you are reading 31 on the rotor's mark.
 
So only way to confirm correct mark is to either note crank key position or check piston at TDC. Can't tell from pic provided if the latter is true.

Yes, the correct timing mark for a Commando is the one opposite the keyway which cannot be seen without removing the primary cover, crank nut, etc.
 
Even tho the pouring gas to it didn’t really get a result I replaced the plugs and after some kick with the enrichment circuit on they still seemed pretty dry.

Probably not the best diagnostic technique but I’m switching back to my amals. Planned on doing it anyway and the tanks off so it’s a good time.

Thank you for all of your replys. I double checked every suggestion even the 180 out one! Helps a lot.
 
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So the boyer plate and stator have been removed and reinstalled.
Boyer issues? Or not?


I think somethings gone awry with the timing along the way.
The engine rotor set to wrong scribe line, degree wheel check for 31 against the cover scale or the reinstallation of the boyer stator & plate.

couple notes I have about using a degree wheel:
- Mount your degree wheel and pointer, put the bike in gear and turn the rear wheel until the left piston is in its compression stroke and at its highest point. You can find the compression stroke by putting your finger over the spark plug hole and feeling for air being pushed out. Roll the piston back down enough to install the piston stop. Roll the piston forward until it contacts the stop. Record the degrees from the degree wheel. Turn the wheel in the opposite direction until it contacts the stop again. Record the degrees on your degree wheel. The distance exactly between these numbers is TDC. Remove the stop and turn the rear wheel until the piston is at its TDC location, turn the wheel to back the engine to 32-33 before TDC and carefully bump it forward again to 31 degrees for the Boyer static timing at 31 BTDC. Remove degree wheel and install the primary cover to read the degree plate where the alternator rotor mark is at. This is true 31 degrees BTDC. Record this number and use it to strobe the engine.
Example: 34 degrees read on degree plate is actually 31 degrees. Strobe to this 34 degree mark for 31 degrees.

- You can attach the degree wheel in any manner that works so it doesn’t move as the engine is rotated.
On an 850, a 3/8 drive 10mm socket I had worked fine by simple pushing it on, it had a tight enough friction fit.

- Use a wire as a pointer.
If you are doing this for a Commando, don't leave the crank at TDC as you mount the outer cover. There is no reference for TDC on the scale, it goes from 20 to 40, so after you are confident you have the wheel "calibrated" to 0 at TDC, use the pointer (which you've been careful not to disturb yet) and turn the crank to 31 BTDC. Now you can remove the pointer, and holding the crank still, remove the disk, remount the outer cover and see if you are reading 31 on the rotor's mark.
Thanks, this was done when the primary was off. Found the primary timing marks to be right on.
 
Are the spark plugs wet with fuel?
My Boyer equipped bikes start first kick - as do Pazon and Trispark
I found the TriSpark the best for kick starting. However after the first one failed in less than 1000 miles I just don’t trust them. Having the amplifier inside a hot engine case is not a good environment for electric components. Heat and vibration is how we stress test semiconductors.
 
I found the TriSpark the best for kick starting. However after the first one failed in less than 1000 miles I just don’t trust them. Having the amplifier inside a hot engine case is not a good environment for electric components. Heat and vibration is how we stress test semiconductors.
I was considering the same but saw several negative reviews.

I generally prefer points on my old stuff. But when something works hard to change it.
 
Great to hear her roar to life. Now to get her dialed in nice and balanced. I like the Morgan CarbTune Pro form the UK . Really helped me find the right balance between two Amals...despite having done all the install balancing with the drill bits and feeling for wide open etc.
My 2-carb model ran me around $80 CDN and postage to West coast was very reasonable too.

 
Great to hear her roar to life. Now to get her dialed in nice and balanced. I like the Morgan CarbTune Pro form the UK . Really helped me find the right balance between two Amals...despite having done all the install balancing with the drill bits and feeling for wide open etc.
My 2-carb model ran me around $80 CDN and postage to West coast was very reasonable too.

I use something similar for my 4 cylinder carb projects. After the week I’ve had in the garage I’m glad my other bikes are all EFI!

I had these Amals pretty perfect on my combat that destroyed itself. They should be pretty close.
 
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