Obviously working from memory only: As the lower curved footrest brace is bolted by longitudinal bolts parallel to the lower frame rail, isn't any initial movement outwards on the top one? Which of course should be minimized if not eradicated by being tightened sufficiently?Have not tried that goo. I've tried the original thin paper bag paper, a homemade 1/16" thick paperboard gasket, a homemade 1/16" cork gasket, and the current black and green faced coated paper gasket. Nothing worked. I'm very tempted to try some Permatex Right Stuff next time I have the primary cover off. It'll seal just about anything as long as both surfaces are clean before applying it. Very short work time though.
Only time I've had any success with my P11 primary case seal not leaking is during the periods the bike is parked and I'm not riding it. As soon as I go for a ride, it spits and I get 3 drops in a line as soon as I stop and put down the side stand.
I've read all the fantasy mine doesn't leak stories, but those tend to not be about the P11, and experience says that is very unlikely on a P11 because of how the foot peg is attached through the cases. Even with the peg brace to the lower frame rail, there is some downward pressure exerted on the outer cover when going over hard edged bumps. Not ideal for a sealing surface.
Try it and report back. Or are you saying you've had no success with Three Bond 1211, and want to know how someone has? I'm curious as well.
Have not tried that goo. I've tried the original thin paper bag paper, a homemade 1/16" thick paperboard gasket, a homemade 1/16" cork gasket, and the current black and green faced coated paper gasket. Nothing worked. I'm very tempted to try some Permatex Right Stuff next time I have the primary cover off. It'll seal just about anything as long as both surfaces are clean before applying it. Very short work time though.
Only time I've had any success with my P11 primary case seal not leaking is during the periods the bike is parked and I'm not riding it. As soon as I go for a ride, it spits and I get 3 drops in a line as soon as I stop and put down the side stand.
I've read all the fantasy mine doesn't leak stories, but those tend to not be about the P11, and experience says that is very unlikely on a P11 because of how the foot peg is attached through the cases. Even with the peg brace to the lower frame rail, there is some downward pressure exerted on the outer cover when going over hard edged bumps. Not ideal for a sealing surface.
Try it and report back. Or are you saying you've had no success with Three Bond 1211, and want to know how someone has? I'm curious as well.
The leak is designed as a safety measure. When you see the oil on the floor under the bike you wonder if there's any left inside and you are forced to check.Have not tried that goo. I've tried the original thin paper bag paper, a homemade 1/16" thick paperboard gasket, a homemade 1/16" cork gasket, and the current black and green faced coated paper gasket. Nothing worked. I'm very tempted to try some Permatex Right Stuff next time I have the primary cover off. It'll seal just about anything as long as both surfaces are clean before applying it. Very short work time though.
Only time I've had any success with my P11 primary case seal not leaking is during the periods the bike is parked and I'm not riding it. As soon as I go for a ride, it spits and I get 3 drops in a line as soon as I stop and put down the side stand.
I've read all the fantasy mine doesn't leak stories, but those tend to not be about the P11, and experience says that is very unlikely on a P11 because of how the foot peg is attached through the cases. Even with the peg brace to the lower frame rail, there is some downward pressure exerted on the outer cover when going over hard edged bumps. Not ideal for a sealing surface.
Try it and report back. Or are you saying you've had no success with Three Bond 1211, and want to know how someone has? I'm curious as well.
I've been using a 20 penny nail, bailing wire, and some bubble gum for a top bolt. Obviously I need to make a correction.Obviously working from memory only: As the lower curved footrest brace is bolted by longitudinal bolts parallel to the lower frame rail, isn't any initial movement outwards on the top one? Which of course should be minimized if not eradicated by being tightened sufficiently?
Can't remember mine leaking, but always with paper gasket and hylomar...
I've always had good results with Hylomar, but you need to follow a strict regime and no, it won't compensate for poor surfaces...I've been using a 20 penny nail, bailing wire, and some bubble gum for a top bolt. Obviously I need to make a correction.
Mine does not leak enough to drip after being wiped down and parked. Heat, vibration, and my weight on the footrest pounding down are what make it leak. I also use my back brake in conjunction with the front. The front isn't enough for stop lights or in a quick stops avoiding cars that stop short in traffic. That also puts excessive weight on the foot peg. I'm no ballerina when I ride.
I did not buy my P11 whole. There is some mix and match going on, and I had to replace the outer cover once. The hole for the top bolt did not line up with the hole in the inner case and I had to open it up. Not a source for the leak though. The outer case probably needs to go to a machinist and get surfaced, but the cases do pull together flat enough to work with a good heavy duty sealer because of the multitude of bolts that surround the case. I know I can minimize the leak to close to zero if I can work fast enough with the Right Stuff. The gaskets do not work worth a damn on my primary cases. No amount of sufficient tightening gets it done.
I tossed the highly regarded hylomar in the trash. I really don't like that product. But thanks for the advice.
I agree with Bodger and don't really care that much, regardless of how I sound. It's not hard to refill the primary. It takes about 2000 miles before it starts to get better check it low. I would prefer it go away on its own, but someday I'll have to do something about it.
Tried that one.Another way to go would be to change out the primary chain to a much higher tensile strength x -ring or o-ring 428 chain and forget about keeping the primary chaincase topped up. But the build I'm doing now is for another friend/customer and he wants as close to new as possible.
Tried that one.
Without oil, the chain will overheat in no time.
I found that the felt ring behind the clutch is the problem.
Not the gasket.
I could not get a RK 428 o-ring chain to fit. I tried 2. They are too wide for how my inner primary is spaced away from the engine. I have not tried the chain man chains, but I can't see them being any better for my P11 unless I change the spacer width between the engine and inner primary.Another way to go would be to change out the primary chain to a much higher tensile strength x -ring or o-ring 428 chain and forget about keeping the primary chaincase topped up. But the build I'm doing now is for another friend/customer and he wants as close to new as possible.
Turns out the clutch cush rubber was still good. The soft cush rubber of old could have been soft when I got the bike, and I blamed it on the ATF. Also possible that ATF was a different formula 40 years ago. Anyway, for anyone that wanted to say ATF won't melt the clutch cush rubber, you are correct.Jerry,
Any luck with the gasket replacer goo in a tube method after going for a ride?
I'll definitely be trying Right Stuff or similar next time I get in the primary. I'm starting to think ATF turned my clutch cush rubbers to mush, and I could use a new center on the clutch anyway, so I'm going to get to it and stop using ATF in the primary. The clutch friction plates seem to like ATF, but the rubber not so much. I ruined the rubbers in the clutch 40 years ago with ATF, but forgot. By the time I remembered, it was too late, and the damage was done. Most of my shifts are on the banging side now where they were like butter before I started using ATF again. Too bad the cush isn't in the rear wheel hub where it belongs. Boo hoo
I'm going for a ride and then taking the primary off after it cools down a little. I'll report back if I have any luck sealing up the P11 primary. I'm not holding my breath though.
Schwany, I got sidetracked by life so I'm still unsealed. I did get some proper grommets and gaskets from Walridge and will let you know how it turns out. For the first ride I may not use any sealant as I'm expecting to have to adjust the clutch springs again.Jerry,
Any luck with the gasket replacer goo in a tube method after going for a ride?
I'll definitely be trying Right Stuff or similar next time I get in the primary. I'm starting to think ATF turned my clutch cush rubbers to mush, and I could use a new center on the clutch anyway, so I'm going to get to it and stop using ATF in the primary. The clutch friction plates seem to like ATF, but the rubber not so much. I ruined the rubbers in the clutch 40 years ago with ATF, but forgot. By the time I remembered, it was too late, and the damage was done. Most of my shifts are on the banging side now where they were like butter before I started using ATF again. Too bad the cush isn't in the rear wheel hub where it belongs. Boo hoo
I'm going for a ride and then taking the primary off after it cools down a little. I'll report back if I have any luck sealing up the P11 primary. I'm not holding my breath though.