No gasket for primary cover?

jerrykap said:

Schwany, I got sidetracked by life so I'm still unsealed. I did get some proper grommets and gaskets from Walridge and will let you know how it turns out. For the first ride I may not use any sealant as I'm expecting to have to adjust the clutch springs again.

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Jerry,
My P11 has always been a Frankenstein build from a stripped flat track bike. The inner and outer are not off the same bike. I know that the primary perimeter would seal up if I got both covers resurfaced. Not easy to do though without making a jig and doing some CNC machine programming. Expensive proposition for hiring a machinist.

After cleaning up the little bit of oil on the bottom of the cases with lacquer thinner, I smeared some ultra grey gasket maker over the seam on the underside of the cases. It helps some, but won't last forever. I also made a P11 primary cover maxi pad out of folded up blue paper shop towels to catch the oil. I slip it between the bottom frame rail and the primary cases. No drips on the garage floor or oily mess on the frame after a ride. Not the right solution for a restoration being sold, but for an owner that is tired of cleaning up the mess, it works.

Good luck with your endeavor.

Regarding ATF in the primary:

Oil will make the cush rubbers gummy, ATF will not.

ATF on clutch plates has 35% greater coefficient of friction than oil on clutch plates. This will allow one to back off 1/2 to one turn on the clutch spring nuts, lessening clutch pull a tad.

ATF is tough on sealants. I have found RTV type silicone sealers to lose their adhesive bond to whatever they are applied to. The same is true of most other sealers, but to a lessor extent.

The best sealer I have found for ATF (and made specifically for ATF) is Permatex 81180.

Slick

texasSlick said:

Regarding ATF in the primary:

Oil will make the cush rubbers gummy, ATF will not.

ATF on clutch plates has 35% greater coefficient of friction than oil on clutch plates. This will allow one to back off 1/2 to one turn on the clutch spring nuts, lessening clutch pull a tad.

ATF is tough on sealants. I have found RTV type silicone sealers to lose their adhesive bond to whatever ithey are applied to. The same is true of most other sealers, but to a lessor extent.

The best sealer I have found for ATF (and made specifically for ATF) is Permatex 81180.

Slick

Click to expand...

Good to know.

I like your "use the right sealer" logic. I'll definitely give that a try.

I don't find the Norton clutch lever on the P11 that difficult to pull. Arthritis on the left arm and hand isn't that bad yet. I carry a spare clutch cable.

I did a clutch plate swap when I had the primary apart the other day. I screwed the adjusters down to where I can see about 1/16" of thread on the adjuster stud above the top of the adjuster. I don't run a feeler gauge around the top plate. I eyeball it to do final adjustment if necessary. I think the Barnett springs I'm using are longer than stock Norton clutch springs, but have a lighter initial pull at the lever. I also use Magura 74 style levers, and don't worry about the pivot radius. Point is I turn the adjusters down a little more because I can. Backing the adjusters off would not work for my use. I don't like where the clutch reengages power once hot with less tension on the springs. However, it might be great for others using all OEM parts when switching to ATF in the primary.