NKII Rear Hub Squeak

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Tornado

Tornado

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Been having a new noise since last fitting rear wheel. Metallic squeak when rear wheel is rotated...happen about same point in rotation and persists for at least 1/4 wheel turn. Loud enough to hear far side of the road. While underway, it seems to go away for a while after brake is applied but does not cure it for good. Slackening the brake cable acutator does not change the squeak. Pads are less than 2k miles old (EMGO brand). Bearings are original as far as I know, but no free play was found when last checked. Bike just gone over 17k miles.

Thoughts on what to check?
 
Just asking but did you center your brake shoes in the drum when you tightened up the axle ?
If the noise stops or lessens with the brake slightly applied that sounds like the shoes are not centered and adjusted correctly.
 
No guard fitted and noise is definately emanating from the drum assembly not chain. I dod usually hold brake applied while torquing up the axle bolts so that should ok, but brake has always had some out of round feel, rubbing at some point of rotation while rest is free. Makes setting cable adjustment difficult. Too loose, rubbing disappears but the foot pedal must travel a long way to have any braking effect. Too little slack and rubbing gets significant.
 
Tornado said:
No guard fitted and noise is definately emanating from the drum assembly not chain. I dod usually hold brake applied while torquing up the axle bolts so that should ok, but brake has always had some out of round feel, rubbing at some point of rotation while rest is free. Makes setting cable adjustment difficult. Too loose, rubbing disappears but the foot pedal must travel a long way to have any braking effect. Too little slack and rubbing gets significant.
Click to expand...
My guess is the big hub circlip . You will need a new one. It can leave it's groove , allowing the double row bearing to drift . The noise you hear is the brake shoe sides getting too close to the hub and occasionally rubbing against it . This is also a good opportunity to grease this pricey neglected bearing whilst in there.
 
Tornado said:
Been having a new noise since last fitting rear wheel. Metallic squeak when rear wheel is rotated...happen about same point in rotation and persists for at least 1/4 wheel turn. Loud enough to hear far side of the road. While underway, it seems to go away for a while after brake is applied but does not cure it for good. Slackening the brake cable acutator does not change the squeak. Pads are less than 2k miles old (EMGO brand). Bearings are original as far as I know, but no free play was found when last checked. Bike just gone over 17k miles.

Thoughts on what to check?
Click to expand...
You're almost certainly missing part #21 here: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/75/rear-wheel-drum-bearings

The drawing is confusing - it spaces the brake plate (#13) away from the hub.
 
Don't believe so. I've had the speedo in contact with the hub cover in the past, such that the cover alu would machine and melt and speedo housing heated up. Have solved that by carefully pressing the speedo housing in a vise, removing the previous distortion it had from a deformed top hat spacer. No more contact there and housing stays cool.
 
marshg246 said:
You're almost certainly missing part #21 here: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/75/rear-wheel-drum-bearings

The drawing is confusing - it spaces the brake plate (#13) away from the hub.
Click to expand...
The hub was last assembled by a workshop that was doing a full strip down of frame. There was a note that rear bearing(s) were greased. I don't believe they fully tore down the assembly though new shoes fitted.
I believe I have new sealed bearing to fit, will check.

Looks like I'll be tearing into it soon.
 
marshg246 said:
You're almost certainly missing part #21 here: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/75/rear-wheel-drum-bearings

The drawing is confusing - it spaces the brake plate (#13) away from the hub.
Click to expand...

Tornado said:
Don't believe so. I've had the speedo in contact with the hub cover in the past, such that the cover alu would machine and melt and speedo housing heated up. Have solved that by carefully pressing the speedo housing in a vise, removing the previous distortion it had from a deformed top hat spacer. No more contact there and housing stays cool.
Click to expand...

The spacer (item 21) Greg is referring to is on the opposite (brake) side to the speedo drive and spaces the brake plate away from the drum although fitted "as required (AR)" so may not be needed.
 
L.A.B. said:
The spacer (item 21) Greg is referring to is on the opposite (brake) side to the speedo drive and spaces the brake plate away from the drum although fitted "as required" so may not be needed.
Click to expand...
Yes I got that. My post on the speedo drive was in response to gnolan's post #6....should have used the quote reply...
 
Houston we have a problem.

Stub axle was found to be cock-eyed in swingarm slot, and there is now a nice notch in slot and metal burring.

NKII Rear Hub Squeak


I guess SA out to machine shop for a bit of weld fill and grind back?
Stub axle also showing burring and thread damage so will replace.
Struggled to get the dished felt retainer out of drum. Book says to prise it out, yet it took 45 min of chisel work and mangling before it came out.
NKII Rear Hub Squeak


Now the felt seal washer will not move off the drum and spacer.

NKII Rear Hub Squeak

Suggestions?
 
Was the washer under the dummy axle nut the correct thick type?
andover-norton.co.uk

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.
andover-norton.co.uk

If an ordinary washer is fitted then the nut can run up against the end of the dummy axle thread leaving the dummy axle not fully tightened into the swingarm slot.
 
The axle nut washer does look correct.

Ok the spacer gave up after lots of dead blow hammering while griped tightly in vise. More struggle with snap ring but it did come out. Stub axle tapped out bringing double row bearing with it. I have new sealed double row to fit.
 
Same squeak - weird reason. I bet if you look at the back of the brake plate and the front of the brake hub you'll see where they were touching. Every time that's happened to me it was that I needed that spacer I mentioned. Getting all that apart is another difficult Norton task. I recommend ordering the single axel from Don Pender. After forever taking it apart, you spend minutes putting it back together; and, all the PITA pieces are no longer used.

Since the damage to the swingarm is half-moon shaped, I would say that the dummy axel flats weren't aligned with the swingarm and tightened or like Les said not actually tightened at all. The metal in that area is quite soft and malleable.
 
marshg246 said:
Same squeak - weird reason. I bet if you look at the back of the brake plate and the front of the brake hub you'll see where they were touching. Every time that's happened to me it was that I needed that spacer I mentioned. Getting all that apart is another difficult Norton task. I recommend ordering the single axel from Don Pender. After forever taking it apart, you spend minutes putting it back together; and, all the PITA pieces are no longer used.

Since the damage to the swingarm is half-moon shaped, I would say that the dummy axel flats weren't aligned with the swingarm and tightened or like Les said not actually tightened at all. The metal in that area is quite soft and malleable.
Click to expand...
I confirmed the shim washer was present on stub axle one removed.
Yes the flats of stub axle were cocked in the SA slot, and the loading from the axle nut torque must have forced the deforming of slot and corners of flats.

Will see how much it can be cleaned up, file or dremel. The stub was jammed in place tightly and needed lots of drifting to get it out of slot. There are some damaged threads on stub where it contacted SA slot on way out I guess (had the nut on left end to protect those thread while knocking with deadblow hammer).
 
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