Newcomer looking for buying advice

Same boat! I have been restoring Jap bikes for 15 years, and picked up a 69 750s a few months ago. The toughest thing I have encountered is not having correct size wrenches, special tool, and no coffe cans full of spare bolts etc.

I've spent about $1500 so far, and expect to spent another $2000 or more before she's done. I am upgrading isolastics, , kibblewhite valve train, , new .40 pistons, all purchased already.

Yesterday I pulled engine trans swingarm etc. I found a thin piece of metal, looks like a piece of a 3 piece oil ring. I was hemming on splitting cases, now it's a no brainer. Will do all updates on lower end.

Seems like I've learned a ton already, but still don't know so much! Fortunately one the guys I ride vintage bikes with every Saturday is a Norton guru, and his advice and patience has beed a godsend!

I'm trying to be patient, but i can't wait to get this thing on the road and start killing some bugs with it!!!

Davo

Ta.

Time Warp said:

Bassmasta said:

... but what else should I check before making the purchase? Thanks a lot in advance.

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You need to get the bike out in the open so you can see it properly.

Check the lower left frame tubes for damage or repair in the side stand area including on the inside portion.
Check the those same lower tubes both sides for contact from the exhaust.
Watch out for the lower steering head bearing moving in the cup (oval cup in the frame) it is a ball bearing unit.
Check the swing arm for excessive side play that could be wear in the rear cradle bore for the the pivot pin.
Frame / engine / transmission case numbers that match is good.
Heads or cylinders with broken fins is personal, it goes along with obvious rough treated fasteners (bush mechanic)
Check the spark plug threads and the header pipe threads in the head are good
Check the engine cases "all" over for cracks or weld repairs (it is a 750)
It has a cush drive rear wheel so doesn't hurt to check for play in the sprocket hub.
Check the operation of the Lucas handle bar switches, clean up is free, replacement not.
The fuel tank is pretty much a paper weight straight off the bat, that or a gamble.
Even used speedometer/tachometer gauges run $100 + each used.

Go over it closely is the key along with someone else who has no interest in it.

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+1

You can get the plastic replacement switch parts and springs to rebuild the Lucas handle bar switches. cheap

first purchase will be Whitworth spanners and sockets and assorted other tools

Cosmetically it is amazeing how much some of the rust will polish out.

As to cost you can buy Andover OEM type parts or selectively get aftermarket at a substantial savings, Mufflers from Commando Specialties are $160.00 and look very good

Take your time and search and ask questions the guys here have been very helpful.

Dennis

Hello, Bassmasta.

Nice to see someone else in a similar situation. I inherited a '71 Cdo this year, and just dragged it into the warm of my living room, with the very kind acceptance of my flatmate. Haven't had a chance to go over it thoroughly yet, but at least visually, it is in much the same shape as the one you just picked up. If you end up starting a thread for your rebuild project, I will follow it closely. I expect this will be a bit of challenge, as like you I have no previous experience with Brit bikes, and in particular no experience with pushrod engines either. Plently of time spend wrenching on Japanese bikes, and OHV engines and the like, but nothing quite so old, or with so many 'known' eccentricities even when new. Good luck on the project, and hopefully it doesn't become quite as much of a wallet emptier as it seems these old bikes can be! I plan on starting up a fresh thread to document the start of the long road to recovery for my bike as well at some point, so perhaps that will be of some interest to you.

Cheers,
Jon

Not that it necessarily matters, but does the number on the motor match the frame? That motor has the timed breather like the 69 S and the first roadsters, but the handle bar switches and seat suggest that it is the second version of the roadster. I had assumed (but don't know) that when Norton developed the second stage Roadster they also changed the breather. I may be wrong on that, and I also understand that there was some flexibility in assembly of components; ie a bit of mixing and matching.

If the numbers don't match then that may affect the value. That all said, I think that if that bike was in NZ where I am it would sell for significantly more than $2k as is. Based on my own experience I also agree that a full over restoration will cost at least the highest figure mentioned in this thread (apart from the CNW purchase); but I would do it all over again if not for the threat of divorce.

I see too many people paying too much money for a bag of bolts and a rusty hulk. I think it is false economy to pay 2 to 2.5 k for a disassembled non runner. In the long and short run, you are better to hunt for a decent runner. The hundreds of dollars for every rusted out,missing,destroyed,non operable,or vital engine component you have to replace adds up very quickly. On top of that, you have no way of knowing the internal condition of the engine. If you want a project, have the money to spare, and the skills to restore it, then go for it. There are millions of car and bike projects out there. The sellers have usually bitten off more than they can handle, have never gotten around to restoring it, have never had the money to do it, or have never had the requisite skills in the first place. However, if one of these hulks is on your doorstep and you have the desire, what more can one ask for. Buy it.

I just looked at the photos .It's worth $2000,but be prepared to spend another 5k on it (at least) to get a safe ,good running bike. You will need a parts book,a shop manual (I prefer Clymer,better pictures) some specialized tools. These bikes are a horse of a different color from Japanese stuff. I'm basically a Triumph guy ,but built my first basket case Commando last year. They are worth the trouble and you'll be able to use your rear view mirrors!!!....Skip

"I think it is false economy to pay 2 to 2.5 k for a disassembled non runner."

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That's some damn good advice. That $2,000 nonrunner is likely to cost twice what a $5,000 decent running, sorted out Commando will cost. If you find one with decent paint, tires, no rusted chrome and some upgrades, $8,000 would still be cheaper than the $2,000 basket case. If you are looking for a project and want to know everything is up to par, then go for the basket case, or the nonrunner roller.. Commandos are NOT cheap bikes. It is very unlikely you will have less than $10,000 total invested when all is said and done.

So...I bought it. Thanks for the advice.
At a glance this is what I found
The isolastics are completely shot (as expected)
It is missing the chain guard and mufflers(exhaust thats there looks like it was cut too)
It did fall from the sidestand breaking, leaving a dent in the sidecover it fell on as well as scraping the speedo and cracking its glass.
It came with a new sidecover to replace the dented one which is nice
Front brake basically doesn't work, but thats maintenance anyway.
The front fender that i got in a box for it has flaking chrome so I need a new one
The single Mikuni setup is there, but shady. It needs a new rubber manifold adapter between the carb and manifold, and needs a new throttle cable
The center stand has mismatched hardware so it needs going through

The numbers on the engine matched the frame, I do not remember them right now though. Could you elaborate on the breather?

My plans for it are to go through it a little bit just to get a better idea of what it will take to get it going, then try to get it running.
I don't want to spend too much time on it until I get my 400f on the road so I can at least have something to ride this summer.

Congratulations and enjoy!

Congratulations. You may think about naming the new baby. These projects take a long time so you are wise to go 400F in the meantime.

Bassmasta said:

So...I bought it. .

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I think you've done well and to risk misquoting " a mans worth is measured not by what he's achieved, but by what he went through to achieved it" Jim C
I really enjoyed doing my basket case, wasn't even bothered when I crashed it.

J

When replacing chromed items you may want to consider stainless steel. Most chromed Norton parts are available in stainless steel.


Fender-https://www.oldbritts.com/13_066204.html
Muffler-Broken link removed

JimC said:

"I think it is false economy to pay 2 to 2.5 k for a disassembled non runner."

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That's some damn good advice. That $2,000 nonrunner is likely to cost twice what a $5,000 decent running, sorted out Commando will cost. If you find one with decent paint, tires, no rusted chrome and some upgrades, $8,000 would still be cheaper than the $2,000 basket case. If you are looking for a project and want to know everything is up to par, then go for the basket case, or the nonrunner roller.. Commandos are NOT cheap bikes. It is very unlikely you will have less than $10,000 total invested when all is said and done.

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Although true.
I'm willing to bet the average punter will spend a 'grand on a fancy paint job before a reconditioned cylinder head, one reason there is no shortage of pigs with lipstick in the classic motorcycle world (with high asking prices)

Cool. That looks like a fairly complete Commando. I don't see much rust either. I bet it cleans-up nicely.
It would probably start and run after draining the sump, cleaning out the carb and tank, fresh gas, oil, and sticking a new battery in it.
Take your time and enjoy the process.

FWIW, There's currently a set of used muffler brackets on eBay for $60, and peashooter mufflers are cheap as chips ($175).
A battery is $50. Replace the fluids for $30. Clean and lube the cables, adjust the brakes, valves, new spark plugs ($15).
Then just polish her up and you'll have a great bike with lots of "character" instead of some over-restored trophy.

Shit, run it without mufflers and make the Harley riders piss their pants.
(OK, that went too far)

Bassmasta said:

So...I bought it. Thanks for the advice.
At a glance this is what I found
The isolastics are completely shot (as expected)
It is missing the chain guard and mufflers(exhaust thats there looks like it was cut too)
It did fall from the sidestand breaking, leaving a dent in the sidecover it fell on as well as scraping the speedo and cracking its glass.
It came with a new sidecover to replace the dented one which is nice
Front brake basically doesn't work, but thats maintenance anyway.
The front fender that i got in a box for it has flaking chrome so I need a new one
The single Mikuni setup is there, but shady. It needs a new rubber manifold adapter between the carb and manifold, and needs a new throttle cable
The center stand has mismatched hardware so it needs going through

The numbers on the engine matched the frame, I do not remember them right now though. Could you elaborate on the breather?

My plans for it are to go through it a little bit just to get a better idea of what it will take to get it going, then try to get it running.
I don't want to spend too much time on it until I get my 400f on the road so I can at least have something to ride this summer.

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That's good about matching numbers. The hose from the front left of the crankcase indicates that this motor has an early type "timed" breather which opens only some of the time in sequence with the camshaft. Search breather here and you will find many threads. From what I deduce all standard commando breathers can be improved to reduce oil leaks and improve performance. A simple option is a reed valve in the breather hose in later motors, but that is not effective in your and my timed breather. Another option is a CNW/Jim ComStock breather. Jim sells two types- the original that fits to the back of the crankcase and a replacement sump plug which just screws in. Unfortunately this sump plug breather will not fit a 1970 or earlier frame as there is a brace across the frame close to the sump plug that obstructs it. Therefore one of the few viable breather improvements for an early commando is the CNW / ComStock one that attaches to the back of the crankcase; which I understand requires drilling through the crankcase and is therefore best done with the engine disassembled; and at the same time you can rearrange oil drain holes - again see threads on this site. You could check your frame to see whether it is braced - with a tube running across the two down tubes - close to the sump plug - or has the later type frame which I think has the centre stand fixed to the plates that hold the motor rather than direct to the frame. If you have the later frame then you will have a greater choice of timed breather.

"at a glance" im feeling sick........ $2k (US$?)......... FFS... :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: . I have been offered 2 bikes recently here in West Australia at $10K each. No where near as complete as yours and not runner's.. Ive paid $2k ish (Au) to fit two basic complete rims n tyres to my second Norton (and i did lacing/spokes/ etc)........

Think im going to cry!!! ....... or imigrate..

When I got mine it looked a lot better than your one does but it cost me 8.5K before it was imported from the UK (to AUS)
My intention was always a complete restoration so I never tried to start it but pulled it to bits (splitting the cranks etc) to start from the ground up
Among other things I found a broken ring which might not be as bad as it sounds but I also got to check every component and replace all the seals. Reconditioned the head repainted/honed & reconditioned the barrels, new rings and now can ride with confidence knowing all components are up to scratch without worrying about potential time bombs lurking below
At the least check the oil pump to make sure the oil is getting where it should. The oil feed lines can get brittle and the argument about SS & other type lines has been pretty well done to death on other threads

Good luck and the best advise is to research everything you aren't entirely sure about as there is so much to know so take your time and you will be rewarded

Jed

olChris said:

"at a glance" im feeling sick........ $2k (US$?)......... FFS... :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: . I have been offered 2 bikes recently here in West Australia at $10K each. No where near as complete as yours and not runner's.. Ive paid $2k ish (Au) to fit two basic complete rims n tyres to my second Norton (and i did lacing/spokes/ etc)........

Think im going to cry!!! ....... or imigrate..

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Taken for a ride before getting the bike going!
I think you should do a bit more research before parting with your hard earned
I've never laced wheels before I did mine and it cost $150 (both wheels) for the SS spokes from central wheels in the Uk but the rims were not re-chromed. Even then it would have been a couple of hundred more at most
If you are going to get every little bit done on the bike for you, you will definitely end up with one of the most expensive bikes on the planet
Best to do as much as you can yourself which makes the ride way more enjoyable and this forum can be an enormous help

Cheers
Jed

Jed said:

I've never laced wheels before I did mine and it cost $150 (both wheels) for the SS spokes from central wheels in the Uk but the rims were not re-chromed. Even then it would have been a couple of hundred more at most

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The current CWC price for their cheapest stainless steel spoke and nipple set is £69.

£69
£69
£30
......
£168 = $AU305

That is a massive increase since your purchase, USA made Buchanan spoke and nipple sets are around $125 a set (40) here.