Newbie but oldie

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So, I rediscovered that my battery charger can't be used as a power supply! It needs to sense a small voltage presence so current won't flow to a completely dead load. So hooking up a real battery yielded much better results! The horn, signal flashers, brake light, and starter all work! There was even spark on the left side...I cleaned the points and now both cylinders have spark!

I have zero headlight, neither main or dip beam, and none of the panel pilot lights work. Shouldn't be too hard to chase these down though.

www.dropbox.com

20210408_has spark.mp4

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2manytoys said:
Norton changed the conventional red=hot, black=earth wire colors at some point to prevent yanks from hooking the battery up backwards.
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No. :) This seems to be where you are going wrong, you are overthinking. Take another look at the wiring diagram.
 
2manytoys said:
I have zero headlight, neither main or dip beam,
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I noticed in the video that the HEAD - PILOT switch knob on the RH switch cluster is broken off so could be something wrong there as the power for the headlamp goes to that switch then to the 'dip' switch on the LH switch cluster when HEAD is selected.
 
L.A.B. said:
I noticed in the video that the HEAD - PILOT switch knob on the RH switch cluster is broken off so could be something wrong there as the power for the headlamp goes to that switch then to the 'dip' switch on the LH switch cluster when HEAD is selected.
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Thanks so much for the tip, will check that out. Is there a repair part available for this?
 
2manytoys said:
Thanks so much for the tip, will check that out. Is there a repair part available for this?
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Not that I know of (unlike the pre-Mk3 switch clusters) but the sliding switch parts (same as the HI-LO on the LH cluster) were also used on late Triumphs.
The knob, screw, spring plate are often lost when the white nylon part closest to the camera breaks...or you could just bypass the switch by connecting the blue/yellow from the ignition switch to the LH switch cluster blue wire.
Newbie but oldie
 
Onder said:
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton Spare Parts Drawings - Genuine Andover Norton Factory Parts - Commando Parts

Genuine Andover Norton Parts created from the original drawings.
andover-norton.co.uk

They have easy to use diagrams for all the bits on the bikes or nearly all the bits.
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Thanks again! The right hand handlebar switch assembly from Andover is rather spendy, about $300 with VAT & delivery. I putzed with the head / pilot switch yesterday and could slide it up & down using a tool. Still no headlight. The red ignition pilot light began working, probably not related to putzing with the switch

I pulled the carburetors off yesterday, disassembled, and have them soaking. They actually looked better inside than expected, mostly some white, pasty fuel residue in the float bowl bottoms. I do remember that the brass float bowl drain plugs tended to leak, is there an improved fiber / rubber / other material washer available?
 
2manytoys said:
It is rather spendy, about $300 with VAT & delivery.
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As you are in the USA then you shouldn't be charged VAT.

2manytoys said:
The red ignition pilot light began working, probably not related to putzing with the switch
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Probably not.
The console lights have a sub-harness that connects to the main wiring harness at a multi-pin plug under the fuel tank, however, the (red) ignition/charge warning light and (green) neutral light also require a feed from the ignition switch (terminal 2, white).

2manytoys said:
I do remember that the brass float bowl drain plugs tended to leak, is there an improved fiber / rubber / other material washer available?
Click to expand...

The standard Amal drain plugs were plastic for many years...
Newbie but oldie


...and now plated brass which I use and they don't leak.
Newbie but oldie
 
I like the plastic float bowel drain plugs. However, be aware that if you have a carb fire guess what will melt and dump the bowl fuel on to the fire?
Happened to me!
The metal plugs will seal fine especially if you use the newer green soft gaskets but then too remember the old hard red ones lasted a lot longer.

I'm not up on Mk III stuff but I believe Sparx makes repro switches for the earlier type Lucas handlebar switch you might cast about and see what you
can find on ebay as well.
 
Onder said:
I like the plastic float bowel drain plugs. However, be aware that if you have a carb fire guess what will melt and dump the bowl fuel on to the fire?
Happened to me!
The metal plugs will seal fine especially if you use the newer green soft gaskets but then too remember the old hard red ones lasted a lot longer.

I'm not up on Mk III stuff but I believe Sparx makes repro switches for the earlier type Lucas handlebar switch you might cast about and see what you
can find on ebay as well.
Click to expand...
L.A.B. said:
As you are in the USA then you shouldn't be charged VAT.



Probably not.
The console lights have a sub-harness that connects to the main wiring harness at a multi-pin plug under the fuel tank, however, the (red) ignition/charge warning light and (green) neutral light also require a feed from the ignition switch (terminal 2, white).



The standard Amal drain plugs were plastic for many years...
Newbie but oldie


...and now plated brass which I use and they don't leak.
Newbie but oldie
Click to expand...
You are right again, somehow Andover added VAT the first time I checked, but now they don't. There is a big difference in shipping between Royal Mail ($16) and DHL ($50). Last summer I needed a part for my Kubota commercial mower which was not available from anyone in the states but a guy in the UK had one, so I ordered it. Apparently Royal Mail hands stuff off to USPS for delivery here. It was delivered to customs in Chicago, but after waiting 3 months and several inquiries to USPS, I gave up and had the part made. The UK part did finally arrive after nearly 6 months, I guess because customs was so backlogged due to COVID.

Any experience with recent deliveries from the UK?
 
2manytoys said:
You are right again, somehow Andover added VAT the first time I checked, but now they don't. There is a big difference in shipping between Royal Mail ($16) and DHL ($50). Last summer I needed a part for my Kubota commercial mower which was not available from anyone in the states but a guy in the UK had one, so I ordered it. Apparently Royal Mail hands stuff off to USPS for delivery here. It was delivered to customs in Chicago, but after waiting 3 months and several inquiries to USPS, I gave up and had the part made. The UK part did finally arrive after nearly 6 months, I guess because customs was so backlogged due to COVID.

Any experience with recent deliveries from the UK?
Click to expand...
You can thank your PG for that, with financial holdings in former employer XPO Logistics, for dismantling the PO.
 
If it is a real bear to start even after futzing with the carbs, give them the heave-ho into the nearest garbage can and buy a new set of premier Amals making sure that the pilot jets have been changed to #19. If the pilot circuit is plugged on your old carbs it is nearly impossible to unclog it. Save yourself lots of aggravation.
 
So I'm getting closer to attempting to fire up the old girl & thinking ahead about how to proceed lubrication-wise. I've already pulled the covers & lubed the cylinders, rocker arms etc. My thought is to of course drain the 30+ year old oil as thoroughly as I can, replace the filter, fill with cheapish oil, kick it over several times with the plugs out to circulate before starting. Hopefully it will run, and planning to let run just enough to warm, maybe around 5 minutes? Then change the oil & filter again. Thoughts?
 
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