New owner - first 24hrs

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Yes, the bolts have the little dab of white paint on them which I guess means they were checked and tightened. When the bike is on its side stand and engine ticking over, you can see the front wheel vibrating which i am guessing is quite normal for a norton. The best feedback for them is all the recent bikes have their bolts checked like you two guys have done to see if this happens after several hundred miles.
 
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Yes, the bolts have the little dab of white paint on them which I guess means they were checked and tightened. When the bike is on its side stand and engine ticking over, you can see the front wheel vibrating which i am guessing is quite normal for a norton. The best feedback for them is all the recent bikes have their bolts checked like you two guys have done to see if this happens after several hundred miles.
I've just checked mine. Manual says 35Nm but my hand-held allen wrenches only go up to 'thats f'ing tight' so out come my trusty snap-on torque wrenches.

Rear disc are all 35Nm (or more), front discs (all 12 bolts) needed tightening but I guess were approx. 30-35 Nm so not 'loose'. A good exercise and one which I will add to routine maintenance.
 

Fast Eddie

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All the white paint proves is that someone put white paint on them!

Yes, of course, it is supposed to signify that “I have checked the torque” but it’s very easy for something to interrupt between one step and the other and cause something like this (Toyota would call this a break in ‘kukuri’).

I don’t wanna sound like a ‘broken record’ but as I mentioned before, this kind of failure should not occur and is easily eradicate with good ‘process design’ and ‘standardised work’ methods.

This is where proper problem solving should feed back into process design.
 

Clive

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This kinda scares me a bit. I'm prepared to put up with the odd bit coming loose because its a hand built bike and yes I know it shouldn't...

If I was involved in manufacturing or warranty I would be losing sleep until either I understood why this was unique and could not happen to any other bike, or recommend affected model owners go to a qualified mechanic to get it checked.

Should I have a safety checklist and get a trusted bike shop to tick the boxes every few months? Again I know I shouldn't have to but I don't want to be saying that while sliding across the road....
 
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Holy effing shyte, Batman!! I would raise some serious bloody hell with whomever worked on my bike. That could have put you on your ass, quickly and horribly. Thank God you had time to investigate. Email this photo to Norton. Totally unacceptable. I know we wouldn't want to see some kid lose his job, but you could have lost your life. All in all, thanks for the heads up. Going out to check mine now. Also, I have a folding set of hex keys that I ride with in my pocket. A single 5mm should suffice in case you have to get under the seat when a fuse or relay comes loose or blows. Glad it worked out for you. How bad are the strike marks on the bike??
 

Fast Eddie

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Regarding the disc bolt issue...

35nm might be a bit more than you realise if using an Allen key gents.

I posted earlier that all mine were tight. Well I lied. With an Allen socket in a proper torque wrench, mine were not all tight.

And bolts on the LHS were paint marked, the ones on the RHS were not!?

I removed the bolts one by one and re fitted with Loctite.

For the record, the bolts look like bog standard stainless Allen set screws with cut threads. Disc bolts are normally a little better than that; shouldered, high tensile, rolled threads.

I might look to replace mine.
 
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I removed the bolts one by one and re fitted with Loctite.
I wasn't expecting my bolts to budge but they were def not 35Nm.... now I am a little paranoid that I might have broken any applied loctite. What type should I use?
 

Fast Eddie

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As the female threads are alloy, I use medium strength (blue).

And I just ordered ARP bolts... unnecessary... but... well... you know how it is...!
 
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Hmm, manual table of torque settings says 35Nm for the discs but further down in the brake section it says 25Nm for front and 35Nm for rear.
 
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I have had confirmation from Norton that the front disc bolts should be tightened to 25Nm, the rear to 35Nm, and to use blue threadlock. (EURO4 bikes)
 

Fast Eddie

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I’m sorry boys, this might cause ‘bolt envy’....

The stock Allen screws are fine I’m sure. But they looked remarkably like the screws I got recently with some Ikea office furniture!

Inspired by the top notch ARP fasteners that Matt at cNw uses and sells, and which adorn my ‘74 Cdo, I got some for the 961 front discs.

I received them today, unpacked and fitted them straight away, to much eye rolling and head shaking from HWMBO. They just don’t get it do they ?!

BTW, I still used a dab of blue Loctite and 35nm. 25nm just didn’t feel enough to me...
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Nice! Any particular tightening sequence on these or was it one out, one in?

My blue loctite arrived yesterday, except it isn't loctite, some Chinese copy (yes the price should have made me re-read the description). I fastened a nut/bolt last night and it seems to have done the job but should I trust it?
 
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Nice! Any particular tightening sequence on these or was it one out, one in?

My blue loctite arrived yesterday, except it isn't loctite, some Chinese copy (yes the price should have made me re-read the description). I fastened a nut/bolt last night and it seems to have done the job but should I trust it?
I wouldn’t.
 
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I wouldn’t.
I just ordered the proper stuff, same price but only 1/10 the volume :)

You really have got to watch out for the rippoffs from the far east, the labels, the description, and I don't usually get ripped off that easy. It will come in handy on the lawn mower I'm sure.
 
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