New Member with 1970 Commando

o0norton0o · Nov 22, 2015

I've owned my norton since I was 19 years old, when widespread knowlege of adding a reed valve breather to the crankcase was not well known. Maybe some really smart people did this on their bikes, but as I recall bike rebuilders considered it a badge of honor to rebuild a parallel twin of any brand without having leaks... My bike always had some amount of leakage prior to adding a reed valve breather. It's fair to say that the design of the commando is greatly improved by the addition of a reed valve to deal with crankcase pressure causing oil leaks.

IF you drilled any holes into the crankcase from the timing side, I would suggest cleaning the screen in the sump, run the bike for 5 minutes, then change the oil (clean the sump screen again) then take it for a 20 minute ride and change the oil YET again. Even with a vacuum pulling chips away from your drill, you will get some aluminum flakes and dust entering your crankcase. After your second oil change, run the bike and inspect the oil for metalic appearance... If you have any doubts, change it again!@

fiatfan · Nov 23, 2015

o0norton0o said:
I've owned my norton since I was 19 years old, when widespread knowlege of adding a reed valve breather to the crankcase was not well known. Maybe some really smart people did this on their bikes, but as I recall bike rebuilders considered it a badge of honor to rebuild a parallel twin of any brand without having leaks... My bike always had some amount of leakage prior to adding a reed valve breather. It's fair to say that the design of the commando is greatly improved by the addition of a reed valve to deal with crankcase pressure causing oil leaks.

IF you drilled any holes into the crankcase from the timing side, I would suggest cleaning the screen in the sump, run the bike for 5 minutes, then change the oil (clean the sump screen again) then take it for a 20 minute ride and change the oil YET again. Even with a vacuum pulling chips away from your drill, you will get some aluminum flakes and dust entering your crankcase. After your second oil change, run the bike and inspect the oil for metalic appearance... If you have any doubts, change it again!@

Perhaps this type of oil tank would be useful in these circumstances? :wink: Never mind the rest of the bike, just check 35-40 seconds in.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=p ... 6WPZbUr7fg
Tommy

rivera · Nov 23, 2015

If the oil would still be translucent it would be far better...

rivera · Dec 5, 2015

Mystery part

I came across the brochure for the 70 "S"
By closely looking at the centerfold picture I spotted this part:

Is it a bracket to keep the stop light cables out of the rear chain?
Looks like a metal strip with a rubber grommet at the end.
Can´t find the part in any parts list.
Anybody has this part on their early Commandos?

L.A.B. · Dec 5, 2015

Re: Mystery part

rivera said:
Can´t find the part in any parts list.

It is available from AN as part 060693.
http://www.nortonmotors.de/ANIL/Norton% ... 25&Part=19
Items 19 & 20 (060811, grommet).

rivera · Dec 5, 2015

Thanks!
Mystery solved!
Will be included in my next order for Joe Seifert..

DogT · Dec 5, 2015

I can get you a better picture if you need it.

rivera · Dec 5, 2015

Thanks!
Already found one:
http://www.nsamotorcycles.co.uk/06-0693-norton-commando-stop-light-switch-lead-bracket-4596-p.asp

But If you have a better one.. maybe how its fixed to the Z-plate..

L.A.B. · Dec 5, 2015

rivera said:
..maybe how its fixed to the Z-plate..

o0norton0o · Dec 5, 2015

while you're there near the foot lever add a brake lever safety spring. I don't know if it's a stock item on later bikes, but yours doesn't have one (probably) If your rear brake cable becomes dislodged, then there's nothing to stop the brake's foot lever from dropping straight down and hitting the pavement...

Part # 06-4172

and it looks like this:

rivera · Feb 20, 2016

IWhen turning on the headlight I noticed the high beam warning light already glowing a bit when
the dip beam is on. It gets brighter when I switch to high beam.
I guess it should only glow when using the high beam?

Dip beam/low beam:

High beam:

Head lamp wiring:

I wired the Triconsul switch and the headlight according to the 1970 wiring diagram.
White/blue comes from the switch and goes to the bulb holder and also to the warning light ( top right on the pic).
Red is positive earth.
The left warning light is for the indicators which are mandatory in good old Germany..
I have a H4 insert in my headlight. Is this the course of the phenomenon?

L.A.B. · Feb 20, 2016

rivera said:
I have a H4 insert in my headlight. Is this the course of the phenomenon?

Yes, I think so, the photo shows the blue/white and red connections at the headlamp plug need to be swapped over.

"Common" = Red for positive earth.

rivera · Feb 20, 2016

When your drawing is a "view from behind" you are right.
See my turned picture:

Blue/red is on top and red and white/blue are switched. But it works so far. :!:

L.A.B. · Feb 20, 2016

rivera said:
Blue/red is on top and red and white/blue are switched. But it works so far. :!:

Yes, the headlight will work with the wires connected as shown but one beam will not be as bright as it should be.

rivera · Feb 20, 2016

L.A.B. said:
Yes, the headlight will work with the wires connected as shown but one beam will not be as bright as it should be.

Because half of the energy goes to the warning light.. :lol:

Thanks for the tip ! Will change it tomorrow!

L.A.B. · Feb 20, 2016

rivera said:
L.A.B. said:

Yes, the headlight will work with the wires connected as shown but one beam will not be as bright as it should be.

Click to expand...

Because half of the engery goes to the warning light.. :lol:

Not exactly, with the wires connected as they are, the current from one beam filament must pass through the other filament in order to get to 'earth'.

rivera · Feb 22, 2016

This morning I switched the cables- works perfectly! Got blinded by the light!
Thanks for the hint!

rivera · Feb 23, 2016

And we got colour!
First layer of Glasurit Metalflake Royalblue from a 27 year old can!

Now several layers of clear cote with sanding in between.

nortriubuell · Feb 25, 2016

Gorgeous ... love the sparkly blue 8) Thanks for posting.

frankdamp · Feb 26, 2016

A friend in Seattle had an MGB which had oil leaks frequently. When he asked an MGB specialist shop what he needed to do to fix it, they replied "Of course it leaks oil - it's British".

New Member with 1970 Commando

o0norton0o

fiatfan

rivera

rivera

L.A.B.

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rivera

DogT

rivera

L.A.B.

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o0norton0o

rivera

L.A.B.

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rivera

L.A.B.

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rivera

L.A.B.

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rivera

rivera

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