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L.A.B. said:

. But (sorry to state the obvious here) the idle speed needs to be set sufficiently high enough so that the engine isn't constantly stalling! Which may result in your own bike (which of course has had some modifications) needing a slightly different idle speed?

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i think that's the direction i'm headed. once it's happy for a while (and has enough time to get warmed up :roll: ) then i'll see 'how low can i go'

i'm off to the garage, but first, i have 6 idle jets to clean out on these puppies



i must be the only one in my building going up-n-down in the elevator w/ an oil pan- daily :lol:

No lower than 800 even if it will do it. You need to go that fast just to keep the oil moving well.
A couple of tips on starting Commando's. The first kick is for teaching the Boyer when to fire this will prevent kick backs 90% of the time so a half hearted kick is fine you don't really want it to start. If your choke is set for choke and your twist grip is not twised you will also put a charge into the cylinders. Even on half hearted kicks always use the clutch. You are using it to do two things. One is to free the kick start lever to get it part way down to start your kick from the right place.The second once you have it moving is to stop when you feel the motor come to compression and useing the clutch again to find the sweet starting point for the kick start. You will get in this good habbit it it will save a lot of effort and your leg on a day when the boyer trys to start backwards. Now your in the good spot were your leg is almost straight, the pistons are TDC you just step down briskly chokes still on if it catches a little throtle will bring it round. If it's dead no fire at all Re-cock and try half choke no throtle. If it's still dead turn off the choke and give just a little throtle. You have to listen but you will learn what it needs. Always cock the bike no matter how dead the responce always keep it mind that the clutch releases the kick start. Get the choke off as soon as it will go without. Auto lite AP-64's spark plugs set at .040 are a big help with resisting gas fouling. You don't really kick these bikes you get your mass over the the kick starter and comit to putting all your push straight down. the TDC gives you the head start you need you never need to put your body forward to get that little extra stroke off the kicker your just wasting energy. If my son of 21 who comes in at 150lbs can do it you sure can. Use your ears close your eyes a Commando takes a whole body to start well. You have to play with it but soon you will have the intuitive feel for the temp. and moistre in the air to know what is required. It is best to have the bike on it's wheels but training should be done on the center stand and never on the kick stand. Your bike needs lots of riding to clear the idle curcut I prescibe a 200 miles ride keeping the RPM's at least at 4000. Don't wait this is important.

norbsa48503 said:

I prescibe a 200 miles ride keeping the RPM's at least at 4000. Don't wait this is important.

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Got it, let's ride.

i don't want to jinx it but i think i've figured out the 'technique'
apparently, even w/ the mikuni lever down it still likes a crack of the throttle
(and to think that all this time that i've been kicking like a mule into double digits and i was..... ahem....a twist of the wrist away :roll: :lol: )

got it running several times, repeatedly, pretty much at will. messed with the idle a bit... set it at 1400 for now, once i have a decent lengthy ride on it i'll see where can i settle it.

opened the plugs up a bit, if i'm understanding the ignition setup on the bike, it's rather powerful w/ a hot spark so i set it at .040 (it was set at .020+/-)

thanks for your patience. let's hope this good story continues.

}{arlequin said:

tried to fire it up again today, no luck. checked and cleaned the plugs, drained 1/2 cup of oil from the sump... nothing.

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That amount doesn't sound particularly excessive so is there really a wetsump problem here?.

Good point. For some reason I read that as 1/2 qt.
It would have to get worse than that for me to break a sweat.

MichaelB said:

It would have to get worse than that for me to break a sweat.

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ha ha, i like how you think

btw, according to p/o, he DID use 50wt in there, but it won't hurt to replace it w/ some fresh fluid. as for the filter, i only glanced at it and saw it was orange- i'm wondering if it's a....(gasp).... Fram filter? :lol:
(they're a no-no in the car community. what do you guys use, or am i just being a snob? )

}{arlequin said:

what do you guys use, or am i just being a snob? )

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= Genuine Norton!

But they are about the same price as other types available in the UK. There are alternatives mentioned here: http://atlanticgreen.com/oilfilter.htm

Something not quite right if you need to slightly open the throttle to get a mikuni carb to start. For the enrichener to work correctly, it needs the vacuum formed by a completely closed throttle. Once started in this state , it should idle strongly but with the irregular beat of a normally choked engine.However, do not let it idle for more than say 10secs without opening the throttle and blipping at around 2500-3000rpm or your plugs will foul from the rich mixture. The sooner you can get off the enrichener the better - say 30 secs..... be prepared for the revs to drop and for you to open the throttle more . Depending on how cold the weather is, you should be able to drop the idle to about 2000 rpm within another 30 secs. Personally I feel you are better to ride off as soon as you can drop the revs enough to engage first without graunching. Leaving it sitting on idle to "warm up" is not getting enough oil to vital parts in my opinion.
Try adjusting the throttle stop so that the slide is fully down and the stop only just touching and check that the air adjustment screw is 1 1/2 turns out as a starting point. Fine tune these for idle when you get it starting easily on the first or second kick.
It's a lovely looking bike and sounds like it has been well sorted with all the right mods done... so I wouldn't think there will be an issue with the carb jetting. Just a thought...did you drain the tank and put fresh fuel in it.
The next issue is a common one where the wires in the timing cover break through vibration.The copper strands workharden and break in time inside the pvc insulation. If you take the cover off you will probably find the two core wire connected to the pickup plate by plug in connectors. They normally break between these connectors and the plate, usually at a cable tie or some resin bonding the wires on the plate itself.Pull on them ,one at a time....if the pvc stretches, you have a break.
This intermittent signal via the sometimes touching wire causes havoc to the Boyer and consequently starting and running.
Starting to write a novel here, so try these pointers and see how it goes. We all want to see you enjoy this fine machine and become as hooked as the rest of us.
Jay in NZ