new here and new to Nortons

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o0norton0o said:
Those of us who have dual amals and have mastered their quirks by rebuilding them and learning about how they operate, are past the point of jettisoning them for a simpler single mikuni carb. My sleeved amals work fine.
I went with the single Mikuni as the used kit was offered to me for less than what was the cost of re-sleeving my Amals. I do prefer the look and feel of the twins, and am pretty handy at keeping them running (when not worn out). I'll be going back to the stock setup once funds are allocated. In the meantime, the single works a treat for a daily commuter bike, and it still pulls like mad up to 90mph.

Nathan
 
Like Glen said, lets not confuse 'top end' in terms of top speed, with 'top end' in terms of higher revs... Which are available in all 4 gears.

Anyone who enjoys the rapid acceleration of a Commando, especially on fast sweepers, will enjoy the power and torque available above 5,000rpm. Which is when a single carb (and or the manifold) runs out of flow ability. This rider will prefer twin carbs.

Anyone who has no intention of revving above 5,000rpm has little or nothing to lose by fitting a single carb.

This might be a slight over simplification, but I think it pretty much sums it up in terms of performance.

In terms of looks, that's purely subjective.

In terms of simplicity, thats still kinda controversial, as many site the simplicity of a single carb as a God send. But many others (inc me, I've run twin Amals on Triumphs for donkeys years) claim that, provided they're in good nick, twin Amals give good service and are not troubled by them going out of synch or such like.

IMHO, I would therefore conclude / suggest that the riders own riding style and intended use should be a big factor in deciding in single or twin carbs.
 
As this post seems to have degenerated into a single verses twin carb debate I wonder how many people have actually tried a decent single carb? Ie a 40mm flatslide,there is no comparison between a single 34 or 36 VM and a pair of amals in performance, but between a 40mm tm and a pair of amals I would say there is a comparison, my bike will pull past 7000rpm if I want it to,power comes in hard at around 5000rpm and just builds I'd love to put it on dyno just to see what it puts out,would I recommend a single mikuni VM ? Well it's ok if you want a sedate bike but if you want a bit more fun get your amals sleeved and machined for premier pilot jets or cut a section out of your frame gusset and fit a tm 40mm flat slide cheers
 
baz said:
As this post seems to have degenerated into a single verses twin carb debate I wonder how many people have actually tried a decent single carb? Ie a 40mm flatslide,there is no comparison between a single 34 or 36 VM and a pair of amals in performance, but between a 40mm tm and a pair of amals I would say there is a comparison, my bike will pull past 7000rpm if I want it to,power comes in hard at around 5000rpm and just builds I'd love to put it on dyno just to see what it puts out,would I recommend a single mikuni VM ? Well it's ok if you want a sedate bike but if you want a bit more fun get your amals sleeved and machined for premier pilot jets or cut a section out of your frame gusset and fit a tm 40mm flat slide cheers

Degenerated how? The OP specifically asked for 'collective wisdom' on fitting a single Mikuni.

I'd say he has recieved good and varied answers so far, including yours.
 
Fast Eddie said:
baz said:
As this post seems to have degenerated into a single verses twin carb debate I wonder how many people have actually tried a decent single carb? Ie a 40mm flatslide,there is no comparison between a single 34 or 36 VM and a pair of amals in performance, but between a 40mm tm and a pair of amals I would say there is a comparison, my bike will pull past 7000rpm if I want it to,power comes in hard at around 5000rpm and just builds I'd love to put it on dyno just to see what it puts out,would I recommend a single mikuni VM ? Well it's ok if you want a sedate bike but if you want a bit more fun get your amals sleeved and machined for premier pilot jets or cut a section out of your frame gusset and fit a tm 40mm flat slide cheers

Degenerated how? The OP specifically asked for 'collective wisdom' on fitting a single Mikuni.

I'd say he has recieved good and varied answers so far, including yours.
Yes sorry degenerated is the wrong term to use cheers
 
Thanks chaps , this is some food for thought .
the first thing i will do is give the amals a good strip and clean up and see what they look like.
re the ignition again I will have a look I was tempted by the trispark it sounds like a nice bit of kit .
thanks for your help so far folks I will have a good read up on here .
 
chrisshropshire said:
Thanks chaps , this is some food for thought .
the first thing i will do is give the amals a good strip and clean up and see what they look like.
re the ignition again I will have a look I was tempted by the trispark it sounds like a nice bit of kit .
thanks for your help so far folks I will have a good read up on here .
have a read of bushmans amal tips, the biggest issue with these carbs is rapid wear on the slides/bodies and the pilot jet bush being clogged,good luck cheers
 
Nater_Potater said:
http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans%20Carb%20Tuning.html
Read it, learn it, live it.

That's very good. Adjusting the throttle stops down rather than up (like I've been doing it :oops:) should work better for getting the fueling even.
 
There are so many ways you can go and still have a very reliable Norton, after over 40 years of hard riding my Norton, It has never let down except for the Boyar black box shitting its self while 100 miles from home, but that was a week after the major fire I had in 1982, other than broken chain no problems.

These bike were desinged to run twin carbies, they are a simple carb and easy to maintain, ever with worn out slides the Amals will still work, they just won't idle right, so turning your Norton to single carb it taking it a way from what it was designed for power down low till full throttle, single carb will have a effect right through the revs., plus it you have the money there are so mant reliable twin carb set ups.

Now for the debate on what is best for the fire, everone has their own throughts on this, point can be a hassle to work and get them right, E/T igitions are set and forget when set up, but there is the chance they will work fine one day and just die the next, plus that fully charge battery you need, I have been throught all these options, have had my share of failed systems, but also my last Boyar gave me 33 years service and is still running in my mate's old Norton.

But for me my set up will aways be twin carbs (32 PWKs flatslides) and if you want the most reliable system then you can't go past a new moden Joe Hunt maggie for putting the best fire into your motor, easy set up, will start first kick every time, will keep reving till your motor goes bang, will go down to very low revs, idles perfect and no battery to worry about, some will say it looks ugly sitting off the cam and timming cover, but after having gone through points set up, 3 ET igitions, so many flat or dead batteries, the Joe Hunt is the best set up I have run on my Norton in the 40 years of ownership, so there are plenty of things you can do to make your Norton reliable, fast or slow, but having what the bike was designed for and having the power when needed.

So asking for other peoples opinion and every one has a diffrent answer, I ride my Norton on plenty of back roads including dirt roads and some trails, but one thing for sure I would never ride my Norton down to 10 mph in top gear, what foolishness that would be, if you want a good bike then ride it the way it was designed for, don't under rev it or labour it, keep the maintenance up to it and which ever way you decide to go there are plenty of options to go, if your got big pockets.

Ashley
 
Very cool. Wonder how much they squeezed the gearbox over to it that rear wheel/tire?
 
Very nice stuff but priced out of reach for most I think.
$4500 gpb for a frame? If building a custom I think I will stick with a regular Commando frame. It's cheap, it fits, it handles and it doesn't weigh much.
I wonder what the advantage of this frame would be, other than a steeper head stock angle, which actually might not be an advantage for most?

Glen
 
I'm sure the bike is incredibly well engineered.

But, I look at it and just think why put in so much effort to make something that so closely resembles the stock bike?

Like Glen says, I think I'd have used a Commando frame.

But 'to each his own' and the owner must be of sufficient means to not be worried about how much it costs, so I'm sure he must be happy with it.
 
Well you get a bike with classic looks that rides and stops like a modern motorcycle they are super light and super smart,no doubt its not cheap because its a rolling work of art. :D
 
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