New Forum member saying hello...

[norsa1]

Regarding the Dave Taylor head steady, my experience with it has been positive. The rose joint design does indeed improve the handling of the motorcycle. By allowing the motor to move forward and back but not sideways the swingarm is fixed and the rear wheel stays where it should.

The design incorporates an aluminum clamp around the frame which connnects to the rose joint arm. This clamp is machined to match the thickness of a painted frame. When you strip and powercoat the frame the clamp does not fit tight to the frame resulting in a loose rear end. The next change to the design is to have the end of the rose joint attach a bracket that is fixed to the original headsteady mount and will do away with the frame clamp.

 

[swooshdave]

Regarding the Dave Taylor head steady, my experience with it has been positive. The rose joint design does indeed improve the handling of the motorcycle. By allowing the motor to move forward and back but not sideways the swingarm is fixed and the rear wheel stays where it should.

The design incorporates an aluminum clamp around the frame which connnects to the rose joint arm. This clamp is machined to match the thickness of a painted frame. When you strip and powercoat the frame the clamp does not fit tight to the frame resulting in a loose rear end. The next change to the design is to have the end of the rose joint attach a bracket that is fixed to the original headsteady mount and will do away with the frame clamp.

Is that next change from Dave? As you can see from some of the other homemade designs that's exactly what they do. That's how I'm going to make mine.

 

[norsa1]

Any recommendations for the belt drive? I read somewhere of one guy having a bit of a disaster with one, but I think it was possibly owner induced, to a point.

I have used the fair spares rubber belt with good results. I was told it was good for twenty five thousand miles which it was. At twenty five thousand and one mile it failed. Worse I got rescued by a Harley. (oh the shame) Anyway the nice thing about the Fair spares rubber belt is that the belt automatically lines from the engine pulley to the clutch. The new urethane belt set up has to be located in an exact position for the belt a aligne to the pulleys. Still too early to tell but the urethane set up seems to work the best. For one thing you don't have to worry about oil gettting into the primary. Wondering about how much venting and cooling that alternator needs in a belt drive set up. Any advice out there?

 

[pelican]

you could always go with a hayward belt drive... they can run wet or dry. Way more expensive than the other kinds I've seen though

 

[mcmarvelous]

Message edited by the moderator (L.A.B.)

Fit a PCV, they keep crankcase pressure down which helps keep the oil inside the engine where it should be. There are lots of flavours out there, Krankvent, Motormite, Bunn XS650.. they all work.

Rich, Where in the uk can I get a PCV, where do i fit it?

Are they dear?

I am in Essex

 

[plj850]

Hi there agree with most of what has been said it really comes down to how much money you want to spend.

My priorities would be

1. Update the electrics with Tri-Spark (expensive) or Boyer(Not so expensive ,have used both Tri-Spark is better but then again i had a Boyer for 15 years ran fine but had the low voltage prob. Also replace the Regulator / Rectifier set up with a modern replacement loads available and not a big outlay.
2.Front brake rode my bike in London for 6 months with the standard brake too may heart attacks avoiding taxi's doing U' es went 12" Brembo and sleeved Lockheed racing caliper.
3.Replace the standard exhaust roses with a type that will not undo at every opportunity and bugger the threads in the head.


Belt drive is fine but again I used a chain setup for 15 years with no problems just don't over tighten the single nut that holds the Primary Chaincase on or leaks will make an appearance check the case for flatness if you have a surface plate .

Rear brake is a bit of a joke but it can be set up to almost act like a brake. Change from cable to rod operation carefull assembly and checking for wear and scoring in the drum and some decent brake linings. Just my thoughts ...

 

[JimC]

The rear brake can be an excellent stopper if set up properly and that's with the stock cable. I sent mine to http://www.vintagebrake.com/ and got back an excellent rear brake. Also some good info on sizing master cylinder to caliper on the same web page. The stock Norton front disc brake is next to useless, IMO. Before I spent any money to make the bike go fast and/or reliable I would get the brakes sorted out.