New Commando - New Forum Member
- Thread starter Dave Swanson
- Start date
- Status
DogT
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2009
- Messages
- 7,394
speirmoor said:
Why not share the bezel info. I have a new one I got from a Chicago chap who I won't mention his name is Marshall or Frank the crook, and it is a nice bezel, but I can't figure out how to crimp it on the clock. Anyone with suggestions?
Dave
69S
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2010
- Messages
- 64
daveh said:
Yes it was Tooting, London. And I by further study the original owner was an American serving in the Army at the time.
DogT said:
Why not share the bezel info. I have a new one I got from a Chicago chap who I won't mention his name is Marshall or Frank the crook, and it is a nice bezel, but I can't figure out how to crimp it on the clock. Anyone with suggestions?
Crimping is not the way, bezels are rolled on. You need a special rolling ool and preferably a lathe to rotate the clock. Kind of leaves you with limited choices in the home workshop, best to send it to an auto instrument repair shop.
Mick
speirmoor
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2010
- Messages
- 1,766
No secret it was an ebay item I had spotted earlier in the dayDogT said:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-sp...6544440QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
I've fitted a new bezel by crimping, the result is not as bad as everyone seems to be making out.
Remember that its only the very edge of the part that's turned under that's visible, the rest is hidden by the clock holder.
I clamped the clock/bezel/seals down to a piece of wood with a soft jawed quickclamp and used a pair of slip jaw pliers with a piece of scrap aluminium to protect the bezel and just worked around the bezel gradually crimping it further over with each circuit. As long as you don't try crimping over too much in one go, do it gradually and the results are pretty good.
The only problem I had was that I couldn't use all the seals supplied, there wasn't any bezel left to crimp over with all fitted, so one of the flat ones had to be left out and the back sealed with silicone.
Once on the bike you can't tell the difference between the one I rebuilt and the other that was professionally rebuilt some time ago.
Remember that its only the very edge of the part that's turned under that's visible, the rest is hidden by the clock holder.
I clamped the clock/bezel/seals down to a piece of wood with a soft jawed quickclamp and used a pair of slip jaw pliers with a piece of scrap aluminium to protect the bezel and just worked around the bezel gradually crimping it further over with each circuit. As long as you don't try crimping over too much in one go, do it gradually and the results are pretty good.
The only problem I had was that I couldn't use all the seals supplied, there wasn't any bezel left to crimp over with all fitted, so one of the flat ones had to be left out and the back sealed with silicone.
Once on the bike you can't tell the difference between the one I rebuilt and the other that was professionally rebuilt some time ago.
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2010
- Messages
- 64
I am continually impressed more and more by this bike! I have had the chance to put a few miles on and have a hard time believing that this is a 36 year old motorcycle. It is amazing how hard it pulls from 70 to 90. Fun, fun, fun!
- Status
