My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

Fast Eddie said:
Frames can be off a little here n there and so can things mounted in isolastics. But none of it matters too much if the important points are all in line.

Getting the front wheel centered in the forks is always gonna be the best starting point. Until you do that, you have no datum to work from. I can’t see how it couldn’t be the correct centre line (unless the frame is scrap).

Ignoring this datum and simply building the rear wheel offset around what looks right compared to some random frame tubes, and then working from there, is wrong IMO.
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In general, completely agree. I do wish Norton would have gone 400x18 (w/WM3) rear and 350x19 (w/WM2) front so I understand the desire for a wider rear wheel. I think Tom is going too wide but it's his bike and he's making it his way. He also has a 16" rear wheel with a very big tire - as least he's not putting that on!

The back end has little extra room unless you give up or modify the chain guard. There is not a lot of wiggle room up front either but being slightly off center would be OK, IMHO. Without a machine shop, you can't move the front hub left/right so rim offset is the only option. The rear hub could be moved left/right DIY with effort but again rim offset can be adjusted. Having the front off center will probably require modified fender stays as they often are quite close to the tire.

All that said, If I were in charge of the build, I wouldn't allow more than a 1/4" off center and I would require the centerline of the front and rear rims to be inline even if not inline with the center of the frame and I think that Tom's goal.
 
Front wheel laced and forks built and attached. For the most part, this all went uneventful* which was nice for a change

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* Only issue was a gap between the hub and the forks. Plan was to to fit it as easily as possible (i.e. w/o disk and caliper) just so i could get an alignment check
EDIT: Lacing the front wheel was much more of a pain than the rear. I had to go around and tighten the spoke nipples to get the opposing spokes in rim holes. Once i got them all in, the offset was pretty close, i just had to go around and loosen/tighten a couple spots

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After talking to Greg, I tightended the forks in the correct order and installed the disk and caliper. This seemed to help (not really those componants per se, but fully driving in the axle with all the componants attached). Resulting gap below. The forks seem aligned (i measured about 7.5 in at both top and bottom), so i think i'm good. Just curious though, is this normal? I really didn't get a good picture (or recall) before it tore it down.

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Next up is checking alignment
 
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Tightening the axle nut before tightening the pinch bolt draws everything towards the caliper fork leg. Are you trying to center the wheel in the forks before hand?
 
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TomU said:
The forks seem aligned (i measured about 7.5 in at both top and bottom), so i think i'm good. Just curious though, is this normal?
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The gap on the non-disc side looks normal.
With the axle nut tightened as Derek Wilson mentions, the pinch bolt slider should be free to self-align on the axle (preferably after bouncing the forks a few times although not possible at the moment) resulting in the gap on that side after which the pinch bolt should be tightened (carefully).
 
L.A.B. said:
The gap on the non-disc side looks normal.
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Thanks for the confirmation. And yes, i tightned the axle nut first (did not even attach the pinch bolt), which did drive every thing to the right. The brake disk is centered in the caliper and the wheel appears centered in between the forks (i did a rough eyeball measurement from the mudgaurd stud flange on the sliders to the rim edge).
 
TomU said:
Thanks for the confirmation. And yes, i tightned the axle nut first (did not even attach the pinch bolt), which did drive every thing to the right. The brake disk is centered in the caliper and the wheel appears centered in between the forks (i did a rough eyeball measurement from the mudgaurd stud flange on the sliders to the rim edge).
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Once you get the tires on and the bike up on its wheels, loosen the pinch bolt and cycle the forks up and down a few times, then tighten the pinch bolt again. This will help everything find its home and minimize any binding.
 
Nice job on lacing the wheels and nice wheel choice. You'll appreciate those rims when you put tires on them. It's easy to get the bead over the edge of the rim.
 
I tried to get the anodized lettering off, but couldn't. Oh well i guess i'll keep it
 
TomU said:
I tried to get the anodized lettering off, but couldn't. Oh well i guess i'll keep it
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Scotch brite and steel wool maybe. However you'd be removing the clear anodize as well and it would be difficult to match the sheen over the entire rim. Hardly worth it. People that would point it out as a flaw when you are parked are hardy worth it either in my book.
 
Schwany said:
Scotch brite and steel wool maybe. However you'd be removing the clear anodize as well and it would be difficult to match the sheen over the entire rim. Hardly worth it. People that would point it out as a flaw when you are parked are hardy worth it either in my book.
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And since the rims re already "wrong" for the bike, what difference would lettering make to purists who complained :) .
 
TomU said:
Wrong and right are purely subjective ;)

Case in point....

View attachment 94794
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Ya, to the purist, that's wrong to the max. To the chopper lover, still wrong - no springer front end ;)

By "wrong" I mean not stock which is what a purist would complain about. They would complain about every bike I build because I rebuild - I do not restore - however, the only Norton I ever entered in a show took first prize. My bikes look stock from a short distance, but most nuts are nylock, front fender screws are button head Allen, I use much better horns (2 of them) but in the standard location, I hand make wiring harnesses and eliminate the connections under the tank, and so on.
 
I get you. There's factory and non-factory. Personally, i don't get purest restorations. If you replace something, even if it's stock, it's been replaced (same thing goes with paint, even if it's the correct color code). I generally prefer original over restored and if it's going to be restored, all bets are then off (on using aftermarket parts or anything else). I was initially on the fence about restoring this bike, but i decided to go the route i'm on (which is a hell of lot more expensive by the way). I plan to keep the gas tank and side covers original, unless they completely look out of place with the now blingy look it's turning into.

And yeah, if you go chopper you gotta have a springer front end :cool:
 
You are doing it right. The red lettering on the Excel rims is a little weird for a Commando. It works better on a tracker style or full road race faired Norton for me. But you will like everything you have done. It should be a pleasure to ride and own.

I think pristine restorations are very cool, but I would not do one because they are under performing motorcycles to me. I have an Excel rim on the rear of my Norton, but my Norton is an example of doing everything wrong just for a thrill.

Can't wait to hear what you think of it once it is on the road.
 
Shot a laser beam. Looks like it's lined up (not sure how precise it is tho). All pics are the same beam

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

Rear Wheel


My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

Center Tube


My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

Steering Head

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

Front Wheel (from bottom)
 

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You'll know how straight it is when you take your hands off the bars on a downhill and coast. Looks straight enough with the laser.

I should try that from the rear sprocket to the gearbox sprocket. Thanks for the inspiration.
 
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