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- Sep 22, 2015
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I figure i'm about a couple of weeks out from firing it up. Need to clean out the tank (as best i canDo you think you will get a ride in before the weather turns to poop?

I figure i'm about a couple of weeks out from firing it up. Need to clean out the tank (as best i canDo you think you will get a ride in before the weather turns to poop?
The best place to weld them in is ,the end of the header or if you have a two into one it would be the collector or have you thought of making a short stub that goes into the muffler header joint and another muffler mount to move it back 2-3" temporarily for your testing . I wouldn't worry about the correct orientation of the oxy sensor for short term testing .cheers.Can't help. I don't have the patience to let a new build sit.
Where would the bungs be welded in?
Those 34mm Mikuni twin carburetor kits for Norton are jetted close. Maybe try them with a few spirited rides before welding anything up.
Tom! You're making me crazy! Now it's Q2 sensors - when will the craziness stop?I figure i'm about a couple of weeks out from firing it up. Need to clean out the tank (as best i can) then weld up some O2 bungs on my exhaust (have a spare wideband i was thinking on using to check my A/F). I have a new set of pipes and was going to weld the bungs to the old pipes, but now thinking about welding to the new ones. The sensor won't be there permanately, but the bungs will allow me to hook it up whenever i want to check the A/F. Having bungs on the new pipes would be a lot easier than changing out the pipes whenever i want to check A/F. I'm also still waiting on Matt to get to work on his headsteady which have been out of stock for almost a year. Anywho, what's the point starting it in a couple weeks if i just have to turn around and put it up for the winter? Are there any issues leaving the assembly lube sit that long? I mean it's already sat what 4 months or so by now, what's another 6 months?
Was thinking on either of these locationsThe best place to weld them in is ,the end of the header or if you have a two into one it would be the collector or have you thought of making a short stub that goes into the muffler header joint and another muffler mount to move it back 2-3" temporarily for your testing . I wouldn't worry about the correct orientation of the oxy sensor for short term testing .cheers.
Greg, they're wideband sensors, not O2. Totally differentTom! You're making me crazy! Now it's Q2 sensors - when will the craziness stop?![]()
I think unless you have stainless headers or are going to rechrome , the adapter with the 18x1.5 thread for sensor, that slides in would be easy , I have a spare AEM wide band and might do the same one day .Was thinking on either of these locations
View attachment 100578
They are small, so was contemplating on putting them on my new pipes and leaving them plugged when not in use. Still not sure though. I won't probably won't be using more than once (unless i need to change the jetting)
Amazon product ASIN B01N0DZO12
Yeah, that's my situation, have a spare wideband so why not use it vs other trial and error methods of adjusting AFR. And you are probably right about the chrome so that my limit my choice to welding my old set of pipes, if they can even be weldedI have a spare AEM wide band and might do the same one day .
Why not just use an Innovate 02 sensor clamp?Yeah, that's my situation, have a spare wideband so why not use it vs other trial and error methods of adjusting AFR. And you are probably right about the chrome so that my limit my choice to welding my old set of pipes, if they can even be welded
Good job!And doing it just to drive you crazy
Yes, it's a threaded bung that's welded to the pipe. The muffler adaptor is not ideal, but an option if you don't want to weld your pipes. I'm going to probably use my old pipes so won't care about the aesthics of the weld, just as long as it holds and doesn't leak.Good job!
BTW, if you insist, how about a threaded rather than welded. Or, a sensor that you stick in the muffler. I obviously know nothing about this - just not fond of welding chrome pipes (making them ugly).
Not entirely sure, but I think what Bruce showed is just the clamp, and the sensor can be mounted in a way that protrudes as far down the pipe as you wish.Think the tail pipe is too far away.
Sometimes idle AFR can trick you , depends on the cam .
With the wideband i can log the AFR. Don't have a dyno or tach input so it won't be very accurate IRT AFR vs load, but it's probably better than guessing.Sometimes idle AFR can trick you , depends on the cam .