My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

baz said:
Later swinging arms were gusseted and flex less than the type you have
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Is that really a problem? I guess it must have been if they later reinforced them.

I don't plan on riding it hard so didn't think it was worth having it welded. Or should I?
 
I've not ridden one with the early swinging arm so I can't really comment
But Norton gusseted the later ones and the MK3 had a box section
I just wondered if you knew it'd been uprated
 
An ungusseted swing arm can be a problem if you have a modern motorcycle to compare it to. That said you really have to ride hard to notice you are riding on a wet noodle. In my 40's I noticed things like that. Not anymore. I spend a lot more time enjoying where I'm riding than I do chasing other crazy mofos around in the hills and valleys.

Any oil rated hose of the correct diameter and PSI rating will work on the oil filter and tank feed to the motor. Neither of those lines are high pressure. I cut and wrap another piece of hose to fit over the main lines where they make contact with the frame or gearbox. That said I'm not riding a Commando, so I can get away with just about any barnyard engineering fix.
 
marshg246 said:
That's weird:

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/16069/protector-sleeve-oil-pipes

andover-norton.co.uk

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.
andover-norton.co.uk

I've bought several of those kits and never had a spring. Wassell sells the springs and they are not worth using so I shell out for AN. What's the part number of what you bought?
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Eyes working better today. I see that it is like the standard armor just not black. Since it's stainless, it's probably not as flexible as the original.

Make sure you use hose rated for hot oil - the pressure is minimal, but the heat is not. My stepson found out the hard way when the fuel line he used split - fortunately in his driveway just before shutting down after a ride. I use this: Amazon product ASIN B000CRBQAE
 
marshg246 said:
Make sure you use hose rated for hot oil a ride.
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Grrrrr, now you tell me (i know, i never asked :rolleyes: )

So looked at my lines. The ones that came in the AN oil filter kit are Cohline 2633. They are rated up to 120 C. The other hose i have is SAE 30R6. That's only rated to 100 C. I was going to use that for my feed and breather lines.

So what is the high range oil return and feed temps. I can replace the SAE hose easy enough because i haven't installed it yet, but the Cohline is installed.
 
It took me a long time to settle on the hose I use now. There are three factors that matter:
1) Meant for hot oil (rated at 135C)
2) Bend radius (some I tried kink easily and some are marked with a minimum bend radius)
3) OD. Many candidates are too large an OD to fit the armor.

Although it is not Herringbone, it is made similarly and from a distance looks OK.

I buy 25' at a time. Come get a piece!

SAE 30R6 is not meant for hot oil.

Cohline 2633 is: "Temperature range -40°C to 125°C and short term up to 140°C" but I don't know where to buy it.
 
Replaced all the oil lines. That was fun, especially getting this hose off

IMG_1454sm.jpg


Thankfully i used a fuel injection clamp there. Everywhere else was Oetiker clamps :(

Also replaced the oil line protector sleeve thingy. Think the round wire coil is better than the flat wire coil. More flexible and less binding

IMG_1471sm.jpg
 
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Primary case done. Decided to go with inner an outer connectors for the alternator.

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


Only issue was the clutch retaining clip. Could not get that effer in. After about half an hour struggling, my 18 son came in and said you don't compress it, you unwind it. Duh, that was simple

Got the timing dialed in.

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread
 
I just did the swingarm bushes and clamp fix and the previous owner fitted the filter kit , I'd expect the holes were to the drawing , he was an engineer type , but with the split clamps it makes the hoses a bit too tight , I had to relieve the top filter mount hole to tip the hoses away from the clamp ., and make sure at full droop the swingarm missed the oil filter .
 
Shelby-Right said:
I just did the swingarm bushes and clamp fix and the previous owner fitted the filter kit , I'd expect the holes were to the drawing , he was an engineer type , but with the split clamps it makes the hoses a bit too tight , I had to relieve the top filter mount hole to tip the hoses away from the clamp ., and make sure at full droop the swingarm missed the oil filter .
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I had a template for my holes and i did a test fit before assembly. It's tight, but the oil clamps are below the swingarm clamps. I tried to take a picture, but the wheel is back on. This is the best i got.

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


You may want to check the holes against the factory template which is copied by Norvil and linked in this link

Installing Oil Filter Kit

I am about to install the Norton Full Flow Oil Filter Kit 064283 on my 1972 Norton Commando. The bike never came with an oil filter, so I will need to drill the cradle for the mounting bolts. The kit comes with dimensions to locate the holes to be drilled, described here...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com

I also used Oetiker clamps which can get in tight places, but are a pain to get off (you have to destroy them). There's a pic of one on the return line in post 481. They may provide a little more clearance. You'll have to install the lines before you attach the filter mount (not sure you can install the lines with the mount installed anyways)

Good luck
 
Brake fluid. 4, 5 or 5.1?

IMG_1496sm.jpg


MC is Don Pender's (if that matters)

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You are getting close to having to start it. :cool:

Whatever it takes is the proper way to torque a front axle. As long as you aren't pinching the forks together out of alignment it doesn't matter what you put through that hole in the axle to keep it steady. I've never done it like you did, but it looks fine to me. Consider the source though. I don't color inside the lines much.
 
Schwany said:
Whatever it takes is the proper way to torque a front axle. As long as you aren't pinching the forks together out of alignment it doesn't matter what you put through that hole in the axle to keep it steady. I've never done it like you did, but it looks fine to me. Consider the source though. I don't color inside the lines much.
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It bent my screwdriver :(

Schwany said:
You are getting close to having to start it.
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Yeah, it's getting close. I have a bunch of odds and ends to tie up, but my last major hurdle is the gas tank. I had a looksee inside with a boroscope

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


Seems somebody before me sealed it and didn't do a good job at that. I think most of the peeling is near the filler cap. Looking down the tank

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


Unfortunately, i can't get a good view on the other half. My plan is to scrape out the peeling parts as best i can, then pressure wash it, then fill it and go. Will have to check my fuel filters regularly
 
I use a long drift the diameter of the hole in the axle, but on smaller off road bikes I've use #3 or larger phillips screw drivers in the past. That said I probably didn't use that much torque. I don't think I have ever used a torque wrench on a wheel axle nut. Haven't had one fall out yet. lol

Looks like it might be Kreem in the tank. I've had Kreem in my tank for over 30 years. I coated it twice. It is supposed to cause the earth to go off its axis according to the gloom and doom crowd here, but it is still holding.

I would not scrape on the interior of the tank myself. Talk to Greg about how he would approach the inside of the tank. I know less than nothing about it. You could search here as well, but that might just cause confusion. ;)
 
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marshg246 said:
You're worrying me. You should need nothing but a screwdriver and one or two fingers. Makes me think you have something missing.
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i lubed the spindle end, because stainless :cool:

No worries, i got it torqued to spec
 
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