MkIII Console lights - remove, repair, replace

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I just finished redoing the warning lights on my mk3.... I couldn’t find any originals anywhere so I ordered a set of four 9mm led’s from eBay and they work fine.. you also don’t need clips to retain these as they have a threaded base with nuts that thread onto the base... a little blue loctite on them an I was good to go..
 
I am in the middle of rebuilding my mk3 dash (new body, decal & lights). I bought some led lights from Amazon that seem like they will work fine...however, since these (and most) leds are polarity sensitive, this causes an issue with the indicator light. Depending on whether you are using the left or right indicator, the led lamp will light or not, as the polarity is reversed one way vs. the other. I plan to put a small relay in that will trip using the indicator wires, then send the proper polarity to the light. In my testing, this seems to work fine.
 
michael95453 said:
Depending on whether you are using the left or right indicator, the led lamp will light or not, as the polarity is reversed one way vs. the other. I plan to put a small relay in that will trip using the indicator wires, then send the proper polarity to the light. In my testing, this seems to work fine.
Click to expand...

Another way to do it using two diodes:
https://gadgetsfixitpage.com/article.php/switching-to-led-turn-signals
MkIII Console lights - remove, repair, replace
 
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I am kinda partial to the OEM console indicator warning lights.
I don't want to rewire the flasher.

So I see Baxter cycle can supply all the OEM , amber, Green, blue, red, light fixtures , but empty.
$50 for the set.

MkIII Console lights - remove, repair, replace


The old indicator lights need to be taken apart and new bulbs soldered in, but you get to reuse the base with OEM plug in flag terminals.
I think this is important!

MkIII Console lights - remove, repair, replace


you then have to purchase four incandescent miniature bulbs .
I am sure you could order from China on Ebay .
But Baxter has these available as well
$24 a set.

MkIII Console lights - remove, repair, replace


All you need is a friend with miniature solder equipment and skill.
 
Clips for these warning light lenses are available from A-N. Bulbs are also cheaper.

-Knut
 
I am thinking about using lightly fitted fuel line clamps to hold in these warning lights.


MkIII Console lights - remove, repair, replace​
 
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The grain of wheat bulbs would be available at Mouser Electronics for maybe a buck or 2 each if that. I would try for 15v bulbs because it is not really a 12v system. You would get much better life. If you can measure the physical size you can find something suitable in their online catalog. Small mail orders are no problem.
 
Latest - got new housings and bubs from Baxter (free shipping).
Borrowed propane mini soldering iron.
Soldered in a couple miniature bubs....keeping them legs short enough was my issue.
Transferred the leg insulator from the old bub to the new bub.
anyway plugged in the warning lights and three work, but the engine red does not.

The engine red is the only warning light with a "control box".
This MKIII has a lot of unplugged and removed items, but seems to run and charge okay.

How can I test the control box to see if it works?

How can I test the warning light wire for continuity? I am not sure what I am asking here but I am looking to power the red light on from this control box location, I guess.

MkIII Console lights - remove, repair, replace


neutral green, turn blinky amber, and high beam blue work fine.
 
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p400 said:
How can I test the control box to see if it works?
Click to expand...

With the ignition ON, connect the assimilator white/brown wire (assimilator WL terminal) to ground.

If the bulb lights then the assimilator is probably faulty or not grounded (E = earth/ground terminal).

If the bulb does not light then there is a fault in the bulb circuit.
 
pulled the white/brown off WL control box, grounded it, turned key on, bulb lights up!


So this means, the control box, in its resting mode, does not ground this WL terminal to allow red bub to light.
I need a new control box.
 
p400 said:
So this means, the control box, in its resting mode, does not ground this WL terminal to allow red bub to light.
I need a new control box.
Click to expand...

Probably, unless there's no battery power reaching the assimilator through the white wire (assimilator IGN terminal) ignition ON?
 
L.A.B. said:
Probably, unless there's no battery power reaching the assimilator through the white wire (assimilator IGN terminal) ignition ON?
Click to expand...

Okay, thank you, me check later.
I feel a smoke test coming on.
 
okay, Thank you, power is at white terminal wires, IGN, as the key is turned on/off.
This is not looking good.
Should I rap the box with a hammer?
06-6393 looks like $20 Andover item.
or $60 at Klempfs, yikes
 
Been using this at least 4 seasons
https://www.coolcatcorp.com/Merchant5/merchant.mvc?

Only difference is you use one Alt connection.

If you decide to use one of the voltage monitors it is sometimes possible to insert the LED warning light into a clear lens as seen in post # 11 in this thread. I used one like for a short period but went back to the red assimilator.

Pete
 
Got the 1975 Norton MKIII console back together today , new Baxter bubs soldered in to OEM bases, then inserted in to new Baxter light lenses.

Key on with lights, lights on HI, turn signal on, neutral

Ignition light simply grounded for bub check, assimilator on order.

Success, guaranteed for 10 seconds or 10 feet.


MkIII Console lights - remove, repair, replace
 
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