Mk111 horn mounting

Joined
Jun 23, 2017
Messages
11
Country flag
Guys
My mk3 came without rear guard and horn when i purchased it. I now have a correct horn (no puns) with the triangular mount bracket. I can see where it bolts onto the bracket at rear of battery tray but not too sure about how I bolt it on along with the rear guard. Parts book shows the components I guess but its not clear on assembly details and its certainly not bleeding obvious to me.

Can someone show me a sketch or step by step assembly?

Thanks
 
Can someone show me a sketch or step by step assembly?

Fit the horn to the battery tray with fasteners 38-42, with the threaded ends of the 1/4" UNF bolts at the rear and fully tighten the nuts (39).
Note that the horn assembly faces the opposite direction in relation to the frame to how it is drawn in the diagram.
Mk111 horn mounting


Fit the mudguard onto the threaded ends of the same two bolts and fasten with two further 1/4" UNF nuts (I use stainless nylocs) and washers (14 & *35).
Mk111 horn mounting


*(Nut '35' can also be marked either '40' or '15' in Mk3 parts diagrams with what appears to be the wrong 14-0302 nut part number as according to AN that is a 5/16" UNF nut.). Pre-Mk3 models used 06.2240/14.1201 locknuts which could also be correct for the Mk3?
Mk111 horn mounting
 
L.A.B supplied the complete info. Here's the method I use. With the horn not connected to the triangle brackets, lay the horn in where it goes with the wires connected and the connections to the front of the bike and the horn opening to the timing side. Put the two 1/4" UNF x 1" bolts and washers through the bracket in the battery carrier from the front to the back of the bike. Put the triangle brackets over the protruding bolts and install the tooth washers and nuts finger tight. Bolt the horn to the triangle bracket, again finger tight. Then tighten the two 1/4" nuts. At this point, you must get the routing of the the oil lines and the orientation of the horn set and then tighten the horn mounting bolt.
 
Thats all I needed thanks guys. Makes sense.
I realise there might be a more 'logical' location but I wanted to give the stock one a go.

Andre
 
How do you get the bike off the bench?
I just turn a handle to lower my bench
But if I didn't have a hydraulic bench I would lift it down with one arm tied behind my back rather than fiddle about trying to get the hooter into a complete bike!
Actually that's an exaggeration I have changed the hooter on my old mk2a I used to own I don't remember it being that bad tbh
 
Actually that's an exaggeration I have changed the hooter on my old mk2a I used to own I don't remember it being that bad tbh
Just installed a new harness on a 69S for a customer. Mufflers off, chainguard off, chain disconnected, rear wheel off, tail light disconnected, and rear fender off. Then the horn is easy enough. (Mufflers and chainguard to get the old harness out, for just the horn they don't need to be removed.)

On my builds I usually don't use the standard horn because although easy enough to install during a build, I don't like the oil lines being cramped by the horn and $6 aftermarket horns are much smaller, louder, and draw less current. You can mount aftermarket horns in the standard location, but I usually put them in the battery area.

These work very well: Amazon product ASIN B01EG18SDE On Triumph Tridents I use two. On Nortons, usually just one.
 
Just installed a new harness on a 69S for a customer. Mufflers off, chainguard off, chain disconnected, rear wheel off, tail light disconnected, and rear fender off. Then the horn is easy enough. (Mufflers and chainguard to get the old harness out, for just the horn they don't need to be removed.)

On my builds I usually don't use the standard horn because although easy enough to install during a build, I don't like the oil lines being cramped by the horn and $6 aftermarket horns are much smaller, louder, and draw less current. You can mount aftermarket horns in the standard location, but I usually put them in the battery area.

These work very well: Amazon product ASIN B01EG18SDE On Triumph Tridents I use two. On Nortons, usually just one.
Greg,
Does this horn work with the stock mounting bracket? I am trying not to cramp the return line from the filter to the oil tank and cannot get rid of the sharp bend where it connects to the tank.Stock horn works well but I don’t like the routing.
Thanks,
Mike
 
Greg,
Does this horn work with the stock mounting bracket? I am trying not to cramp the return line from the filter to the oil tank and cannot get rid of the sharp bend where it connects to the tank.Stock horn works well but I don’t like the routing.
Thanks,
Mike
Yes, but only use one plate as two are too thick for the horn.

I'm almost done with an experiment installing two horns in the area (high note and low note). Looks like they are going to fit without binding the hose. For that setup, I'm using the brackets that come with the horns. Each one is louder than the original and combined they draw 3 amps which is much less than the original.

Amazon product ASIN B01EG18SDE
 
Yes, but only use one plate as two are too thick for the horn.

I'm almost done with an experiment installing two horns in the area (high note and low note). Looks like they are going to fit without binding the hose. For that setup, I'm using the brackets that come with the horns. Each one is louder than the original and combined they draw 3 amps which is much less than the original.

Amazon product ASIN B01EG18SDE
So, here's a picture with both horns installed. The leads to the horn on the right came close to the rear fender but did not touch. To make sure, I bent them over some. There is lots of room for the oil hose. That one is original so it's permanently shaped that way, but a new hose could be routed with no interference, and I think the armor could be left off it. I used star washers between the battery tray bracket and the horn brackets to be sure they can't move. These two horns are very loud, and they only draw 3 amps (verified today).

This bike is actually a MK2A but I put a non-A battery box in. Not sure if this arrangement would work with an "A" battery box or on a MKIII.


Mk111 horn mounting
 
So, here's a picture with both horns installed. The leads to the horn on the right came close to the rear fender but did not touch. To make sure, I bent them over some. There is lots of room for the oil hose. That one is original so it's permanently shaped that way, but a new hose could be routed with no interference, and I think the armor could be left off it. I used star washers between the battery tray bracket and the horn brackets to be sure they can't move. These two horns are very loud, and they only draw 3 amps (verified today).

This bike is actually a MK2A but I put a non-A battery box in. Not sure if this arrangement would work with an "A" battery box or on a MKIII.


View attachment 84448
Greg,
On the picture with the 2 horns,is this going with a CNW electric starter. I am wondering if it will get enough clearance for the cable going from the battery to the starter? I am in the process of using these horns using your pictures now and thought it would be good to ask.
Thanks,
Mike
 
Greg,
On the picture with the 2 horns,is this going with a CNW electric starter. I am wondering if it will get enough clearance for the cable going from the battery to the starter? I am in the process of using these horns using your pictures now and thought it would be good to ask.
Thanks,
Mike
Even if you let them hang straighter down you would have no oil hose binding and you would have lots of room for the cNw cable. The way I have it should work just fine with the e-start too, but I would probably at least lay the cable in place before installing the horns as that cable is a bit of trouble getting through where you want it.
 
@YING - I had my horn and ignition key hanging off the front of the battery tray. With the CNW estart, this had to move.

I have a Stebel horn that I really like the sound of and wanted to put back on. But it is heavy and has broken two mounts and I didnt want to pull the rear end apart to put it in the stock horn location.

So, the meep meep horn I had on the front of the tray had to find a new home.

Luckily, it fit here and I had already had holes drilled there to mount it from my old RITA that was retired in the original rebuild.

Mk111 horn mounting
 
In my view - after relocating the horn on my Mk2A, you would mount the horn ANYWHERE other than that OEM position. What a PITA that location is!
In fact - if you want to leave it there it shouldn't be called a horn - it is a time capsule, to be excavated in the centuries to come!
 
In my view - after relocating the horn on my Mk2A, you would mount the horn ANYWHERE other than that OEM position. What a PITA that location is!
In fact - if you want to leave it there it shouldn't be called a horn - it is a time capsule, to be excavated in the centuries to come!
A while back, I mounted the horn and regulator like in the picture below. It was fine, but the horn cramped the area. With the pair of horns I talked about above, I think the regulator and two horns could go there, but the "hamcan" will not work with the cNw e-start. I've pretty much done every bike I've built differently trying to find what I like best. On other British bikes I mount the regulator on the rear fender but that's tight on a Norton and way too tight for horns. Ideally, they would be mounted like a Trident one on each side behind the rear frame tubes.


Mk111 horn mounting
 
Back
Top