Mitch's 72 Basket Case

htown16 · Sep 15, 2009

Decided to keep a log of my progress on my 72 basket case rebuild. The first photo shows the rolling chassis and the second shows the 72 engine. It's an Aug 72 dated post Combat model. The bins behind the bike hold most of the other bits. I have been stripping and cleaning parts and ordering what I'm missing over the summer. I've got it down to the bare frame and have everything ready to send out to be blasted. Still haven't decided if I'm going paint or powder coat. Been following the recent threads. I'm not planning on doing a 100 point show bike, just a clean rider.

grandpaul · Sep 15, 2009

Start printing up some spending money...

hee hee

Make sure to update the thread often, with lots of pix when you can. Refurb/resto threads are my favorite.

htown16 · Sep 15, 2009

Thanks Paul. I seem to remember on one of your posts that you are getting your powder coating done in San Antonio. I live in Katy. Might be worth driving over there if I could get a good job at a resonable price. Any idea what a Commando frame and assorted bits might run? Finally cooling off enough here to spend sometime in the garage without sweating out a gallon.

Cookie · Sep 15, 2009

We'll watch and cheer.

grandpaul · Sep 16, 2009

Mitch, I use Alamo powdercoating, but my typical price is based on multiple bikes at once. Expect to pay about $400 for the basic frame, tranny cradle, engine mount, yokes, kickstands, battery tray and a few bits & bobs. YOU NEED TO DO THE PRE-MASKING with bolts, washers & nuts, etc.

htown16 · Sep 18, 2009

When I bought this project, I also bought a 74 rolling chassis without drive train. Now that I have stripped both to the bare frame, I have found that the 74 frame is in much better shape. As much as I would like to keep matching numbers, I believe I will go ahead and put the 72 drive train in the 74 frame. Here's a picture of the 74 rolling chassis.

swooshdave · Sep 18, 2009

htown16 said:
When I bought this project, I also bought a 74 rolling chassis without drive train. Now that I have stripped both to the bare frame, I have found that the 74 frame is in much better shape. As much as I would like to keep matching numbers, I believe I will go ahead and put the 72 drive train in the 74 frame.

Just swap the number plates...

htown16 · Sep 28, 2009

Have decided to use the 74 frame but everything else such as taillight, seat, tach and speedo to 72 spec except for 74 centerstand. On the 74 the ignition switch was mounted on an arm attached to the rear aircleaner plate. I don't have the 72 part, but my parts book doesn't show the arm on the plate. Where was the switch mounted on the 72's? A set of new k&n filters came with one of the bikes. I will probably use them initially but if the carbs need replaced I may go to a single carb setup. When people are using the k&n's are they elimnating the back aircleaner plate and mounting the ignition switch somewhere else?

ILLF8ED · Sep 28, 2009

htown16 said:
Have decided to use the 74 frame but everything else such as taillight, seat, tach and speedo to 72 spec except for 74 centerstand. On the 74 the ignition switch was mounted on an arm attached to the rear aircleaner plate. I don't have the 72 part, but my parts book doesn't show the arm on the plate. Where was the switch mounted on the 72's? A set of new k&n filters came with one of the bikes. I will probably use them initially but if the carbs need replaced I may go to a single carb setup. When people are using the k&n's are they elimnating the back aircleaner plate and mounting the ignition switch somewhere else?

Hi Mitch,

The ignition switch bracket for '72 is the same as on '74, attached to the back air box plate on the left had side. The difference is in the rubber cover for '72 is more abbreviated than the '74.

I'm curious about your comment it's a post combat. What 's it's head id stamp?

htown16 · Sep 29, 2009

I can't find any stamping on the top of the head. I checked the seriel number in the Tech Digest that the International Norton Owners Association puts out and based on that and the Aug 72 build date it should be after the switch to the super blend bearings and lowered compression ratio. It does have 32 mm carbs and a black painted cylinders.

JimC · Sep 29, 2009

From the photo of the engine, it appears to be a Combat. If the spacing between the the fins where the head and barrels meet is less than the others, it's a Combat or someone has milled the head. The "C" stamp is sometimes very hard to see.

MarshalNorton · Sep 29, 2009

Mitch,
need any pointers let us know.
I just finished up in May 2008 ,a four year resto on a June '72 combat.
She is a show pleaser where ever she goes. A real show off.
You'll love it when your done. Be careful about taking her out on short trips when your in a hurry!!!
You will not be able to stop at Wawa etc.... w/o drawing an inquisitive crowd.
Even small children like the cool colors and funky exhaust. people will just ask you questions.
You've been warned. 8)
Also other forum contributors have been riding their Nortons since they were new.
My friend has had his since 1972. He is the orig. owner.
That still blows my mind as I was never able to keep anything very long as a yute.
I have some take off parts so if you need ask
MarshalNorton

ILLF8ED · Sep 29, 2009

JimC said:
From the photo of the engine, it appears to be a Combat. If the spacing between the the fins where the head and barrels meet is less than the others, it's a Combat or someone has milled the head. The "C" stamp is sometimes very hard to see.

The reason I ask about the post combat statement is Aug '72 would have been near the end of production for 20xxxx series engines, '72 model year. Most of the combats I've seen on the west coast are early production. My two were build Oct ''71 and Dec '71. The photo of this engine has the cast in portion on the right side crankcase where the magneto would mount in earlier models. My early combats have a stamped steel plate with three bolts in this position. For the '73 MkV 750 starting 220000, the cases were all of the cast in type. A few years ago I had a Nov '72 built high compression (RH6 head) 750 MkV. These are noticably different than the combat. Just curious about late '72 changes after Norton discovered all the problems.

Unclviny · Sep 29, 2009

If you decide to Powdercoat, I can give a huge, good reference for Roadtoys in Deanville (by Brenham), Chuck does
VERY NICE work, specializes in motorcycles and his prices are reasonable.

http://www.roadtoys.cc

Unclviny (who lives in Clear Lake City)

htown16 · Sep 29, 2009

According to the Norton Owners club tech digest the superblend bearings were introduced at serial #207197 and the first detuned post Combat 750 engine at #211110. Mine is higher than that.

ILLF8ED · Sep 30, 2009

htown16 said:
According to the Norton Owners club tech digest the superblend bearings were introduced at serial #207197 and the first detuned post Combat 750 engine at #211110. Mine is higher than that.

OK, if the INOA says so regarding intro to the production line of superblends. Nothing wrong with a combat engine once the superblends are in there. There's no reason to detune it. It's fun the way it is. Mine now has 45,000 miles. After going from a combat to a '73 750 high compression I was disappointed in the '73s performance. Next time I was Commando shopping went back to another combat.

htown16 · Oct 6, 2009

Making some progress, everything has been completely stripped and degrunged. Ready to send frame and assorted bits out to the powder coater. Will be using Road Toys. Thnks unclviny for the tip. Rear wheel also going out to be relaced. Question, any reason brake drum should not be powder coated?

grandpaul · Oct 6, 2009

the brake drum can be powdercoated, painted, chromed or polished; doesn't really matter much. It's certainly not a precision high-performance system!

htown16 · Oct 8, 2009

I'm in the process of rebuilding the wheels. I counted three felt washers in the rear. I haven't got the front apart but I assume it has two. The parts book only shows one in the rear, none in the front. I need to order some. Are they all the same size/part number? Five altogether?

htown16 · Dec 21, 2009

Time to do some updated photos.
Tank and side covers back from being media blasted. Already off to the painter.

Front wheel cleaned, inside rim painted, new sealed bearings, disc skimmed. Forks dismantled and cleaned, new seals, allen head drain plugs, new gaiters, new fork tubes.

Ready to start the gearbox tear down. Mick Hemmings DVD on the portable player.

Front cover off

Inside front cover, pretty grungy.

inner cover off

inner parts look good. little wear on gear teeth and dogs

Time to inspect everything thoroughly and order new parts. Already have superblend layshaft bearing.
More to follow

Mitch's 72 Basket Case

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