Master Switch Mount

I'm working on a couple of pre-MK3 Commandos without standard air cleaners, so they need custom master switch mounts. They are easy enough to make but I can only make them with a round hole. I'm looking for a punch (or method) to make the shaped hole to fit the standard Lucas master switch.

marshg246 said:

I'm working on a couple of pre-MK3 Commandos without standard air cleaners, so they need custom master switch mounts. They are easy enough to make but I can only make them with a round hole. I'm looking for a punch (or method) to make the shaped hole to fit the standard Lucas master switch.

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Greg,
Look for “double “D” punch kits. Very common for cabinet lock sets in metal doors .
Pete

Deets55 said:

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Greg,
Look for “double “D” punch kits. Very common for cabinet lock sets in metal doors .
Pete

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Pete,

Interesting! the old switch I checked was single "D". I just got a new one out of my stock and it is double "D". So, if I can find the right size, I'll be set.

Greg...

Email the manufacturer and see if they make a single D

Good idea Greg,

On the subject of Master Switch, is there a tool for working the Finish nut with the two little cuts other than Needle nose pliers.

marshg246 said:

Pete,

Interesting! the old switch I checked was single "D". I just got a new one out of my stock and it is double "D". So, if I can find the right size, I'll be set.

Greg...

Click to expand...

They make single “D” punches also

MichaelB said:

Good idea Greg,

On the subject of Master Switch, is there a tool for working the Finish nut with the two little cuts other than Needle nose pliers.

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Not ideal, but take an old pair of snap ring pliers, grind off the points and file to shape. Or if you have a heavy-duty pair, just use them.

MichaelB said:

Good idea Greg,

On the subject of Master Switch, is there a tool for working the Finish nut with the two little cuts other than Needle nose pliers.

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I made a tool from an aluminum dowel. Milled one end to leave a tabs that fit in the slots of the finish nut. Can’t send a photo right now.

Greg,
Go to TC Brothers.They make a switch bracket like you are looking for. I bought one and cut off what I needed to make it work for me.They have 2 different sizes on the hole for the switch so get the smaller one.
Mike

MichaelB said:

Good idea Greg,

On the subject of Master Switch, is there a tool for working the Finish nut with the two little cuts other than Needle nose pliers.

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MichaelB do a web search for 'bezel tool for Lucas switches'. You'll find several different sellers for these tools. They're either 2 separate tools (one for the ignition switch and the other for the toggle switches) or a double ended tool with the ignition switch size on one end and the toggle switch on the other end.

Peter Firkins

PeterJoe said:

MichaelB do a web search for 'bezel tool for Lucas switches'. You'll find several different sellers for these tools. They're either 2 separate tools (one for the ignition switch and the other for the toggle switches) or a double ended tool with the ignition switch size on one end and the toggle switch on the other end.

Peter Firkins

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Bingo..

THANKS PETER!!!

Update:

Thanks to two recommendations here, I have two sample brackets on the way. I'm unlikely to like either for all the applications, so I've designed one that will be mountable in multiple way and will work with the sample bikes I have right now:

850 with cNw e-start and their air cleaner
750 with no "hamcan" rear cover
850 MK2A with a K&N oval filter and a MK2A/MK3 battery tray
850 MK2 with a K&N oval filter and the standard (pre-MK2A/MK3) battery tray

I have it designed two ways. One with multiple mounting holes that can align to the battery tray threaded holes where you can decide how far out it sticks or that you can use with the existing battery original tray hole for the original battery hold down and one additional drilled hole, or if you want it higher, with two drilled holes in the front of the original battery tray to name a few. I also could have them made with no mounting holes and you drill your own.

They would be 3/32" thick 5052 H32 Aluminum and will work with the standard covers. So, I'm real likely to have a protype run made for those four bikes and assuming I have everything right then have a production run made. They will be CNC made in NJ, USA with a properly fitting single "D" for the switch.

Those from a production run, depending on run size will sell for $20 to $40 each plus shipping. No commitment but is this something you would be interested in? Would you prefer raw aluminum or powder coated black (by me)? Would you prefer no mounting holes and more or less universal mounting holes. BTW, if powder coated they will be $10 more. If you would like them blasted so sharp edges are gone and they are in shape for paint, they will be $5 more.

I would like two - one for a 750 with aa CNW starter and no ham can. One for a 850 MK2 no ham can. Aluminum. blasted.

Update: I finally received the Norvil solution. It definitely won't work for me.
1) Mounting leg is WAY too short. The switch would be hidden under the air cleaner if mounted to the battery tray threaded hole.
2) The short leg is too short. No way to get both covers on with the gap there. A 1/4" UNF screw and tab washer will eat into the cover and the switch must be put on before screwing it in place.
3) With the new-style Lucas switch there are only about two threads engaged. At a minimum and new spacer is required. I may have the same problem with mine but then, I would supply the correct length spacer.

It is extremely well made from 1/8" thick steel which is WAY overkill IMHO. If in steel, 1/16" is plenty. I'm currently think 3/32" aluminum because is costs much less than 1/16" steel and if people want to modify, it's easier.

So, I'm going to order a prototype run and assuming I get it right then a bigger run.