Maney Belt Drive
- Thread starter swooshdave
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cNw
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The ones I have come across are all one piece, machined to fit the Norton crank. In other words, I believe they are made from scratch, machined for a specific belt design and with a Norton crank taper.
Matt
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That isn't the case with the RGM sprockets I have used.
One other plus. The RGM sprockets have steel shoulder plates instead of the short lived aluminum plates that some kits come with.
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I know the RGM isn't and I was making an assumption about the others. If I had to make one I may look at off the shelf pulleys and then adapt one.
G81 Can Cycle
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Stan Keyes has one of the CNW belt drive kits on his Formula 750 race bike. The bike dynos at 65 HP. Stan has run the belt drive for 3 1/2 years. NO CHANGE OF BELT, pulley, or clutch basket. Has almost 50 races, and over 200 practice sessions on it. The poly carbon belt still looks new, and no signs of wear of crank pulley or clutch basket
I have been running the same belt drive system on 2 CNW builds for 3 years with no problems.
Full disclosure, I designed and make the system for Matt, so I am sure there will be assumed bias LOL
I have been running the same belt drive system on 2 CNW builds for 3 years with no problems.
Full disclosure, I designed and make the system for Matt, so I am sure there will be assumed bias LOL
o0norton0o
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I've been shopping belt drives and yours is on top of my wish list... Beautiful kit...
Fast Eddie
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Rumour has it that one will be being tested on a race spec 920 Maney motor sometime soon...
G81 Can Cycle
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I've not had issues with the button heads hitting the case. If it did I would just add some more shims on the shaft.
But there is no question, the RGM kit [like many RGM parts] may need more "fettling". But I will do that when I get double the belt life.
But if you want the best belt, it is going to be the Gates Polychain carbon that comes in the CNW starter kit. Some day I may have to make up some pulleys for that belt with the ratio I prefer for my bike.
Jim.
We looked into a larger front sprocket when we were building the NYC Seeley. We discussed this design with Gates and they did not offer a belt with the proper number of teeth for a larger front sprocket. This was about 3 years ago so maybe that has changed
G81 Can Cycle
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And, I wonder who would be building such a beast LOL
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Yeah, I am aware of that. It would take both front and rear sprockets and
re-positioning the trans to do it. That is why I have not done it.
I built a setup with the polychain belt and ran the same belt for several years on my 900cc racebike.
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I have run a Maney belt drive on my Interstate for some years now. The first original belt I pulled out when it finally went south this year after coming home from NY Sampson state Park get together. I had over 45500 miles on it . I think I'll change out my new belt at about the 30k mark . Run belts loose and make sure they track straight .
Cheers,
Tom
Cheers,
Tom
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And what did the belt look like after 45k miles? (Which is a long weekend for Jim
).
Fast Eddie
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30-33mm free play (up and down movement) in centre of belt I believe.
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The teeth were blown all laying at the bottom of the primary case. The outer carcass was still in on piece.And what did the belt look like after 45k miles? (Which is a long weekend for Jim
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So there was a little slippage?
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I usually turn the top run of the belt at the midpoint between the pulleys 90 degrees easily with two fingers and it should be about right on a cold bike. The belt should slide back and forth quite easily on the clutch hub . But check your adjustments and tracking on a running and warmed up bike .
Cheers
Tom
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Yes free wheeling you could say .
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You have to keep in mind that the amount of play needed is going to be somewhat dependent on the condition of your sleeve gear bushings.
If the belt is pulled tight by the pull of the rear chain when everything is at operating temp then the belt is likely to fail. So if your sleeve gear bushings are loose then you will need more free play in the belt.
Just enough tension to keep the belt from climbing a tooth when kickstarting or jumping teeth when accelerating when the bike is cold -is just about right.
You always want to error on the too loose side -you will know when it's too loose with plenty of time to correct the problem.
But if it's too tight you will not know it until the first time you get it good and hot and the belt fails.
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Comnoz
Two thumbs up.
here.
T
Two thumbs up.
here. T
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