Large Crank Drain Mod

Jeez - you guys are a tough crowd. I was posting an easy to do fix and I got:
* It's not a problem - why fix it (tell 2 people I know whose plugs components have come adrift)
* drill 2 holes, or 4? and safety wire or v-clip it (instead of one hole in my fix)
* solder it and wash it as one piece (okay I guess, maybe)
* etc

Well I have finished the final version. It takes 15 seconds to disassemble and 35 seconds to put back together - fingernails required to snug the clip in to allow the thinned M4 nut between the tangs. Cannot prise the clip out with small screwdriver when assembled.



Feel like I've joined curmudgeons anonymous
Cheers

robs ss said:

Feel like I've joined curmudgeons anonymous

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How dare you ?!

We’re not in the least bit anonymous !!

It is difficult to imagine that the circlip can vibrate out of its groove, but its orientation after final snug up can make such a happening more or less likely.
The engine's vibration amplitude is maximal in the fore-aft direction, and minimal perpendicular to that. The worst case scenario is if the open end of the circlip aligns parallel to the crankshaft axis.

Perhaps those of us contending there is no problem, have been lucky so far ...... a quarter turn more or less cinching up the plug MIGHT make a difference.

Slick

robs ss said:

Jeez - you guys are a tough crowd. I was posting an easy to do fix and I got:
* It's not a problem - why fix it (tell 2 people I know whose plugs components have come adrift)
* drill 2 holes, or 4? and safety wire or v-clip it (instead of one hole in my fix)
* solder it and wash it as one piece (okay I guess, maybe)
* etc

Well I have finished the final version. It takes 15 seconds to disassemble and 35 seconds to put back together - fingernails required to snug the clip in to allow the thinned M4 nut between the tangs. Cannot prise the clip out with small screwdriver when assembled.

View attachment 114258View attachment 114259

Feel like I've joined curmudgeons anonymous
Cheers

Click to expand...

Even easier, add to your list: Leave the screen, washer, and clip out! Good enough for 72 crankcases! Sorry, just had to

robs ss said:

Jeez - you guys are a tough crowd. I was posting an easy to do fix and I got:
* It's not a problem - why fix it (tell 2 people I know whose plugs components have come adrift)
* drill 2 holes, or 4? and safety wire or v-clip it (instead of one hole in my fix)
* solder it and wash it as one piece (okay I guess, maybe)
* etc

Well I have finished the final version. It takes 15 seconds to disassemble and 35 seconds to put back together - fingernails required to snug the clip in to allow the thinned M4 nut between the tangs. Cannot prise the clip out with small screwdriver when assembled.

View attachment 114258View attachment 114259

Feel like I've joined curmudgeons anonymous
Cheers

Click to expand...

Lets hope you are not introducing a new problem with the added weight of the nuts/bolt rather than fixing something that may or may not happen at the very rarest of times.
The vibration of the engine may pop that lid off with the added weight. Then you have a bigger piece that would fly around the whirli bits. it's your bike to be the guinea pig.
Like a check valve installed on the suction side of an engine to stop it from wet sumping. Good idea until they fail, then its kaboom!

Mart UK said:

I've had mine over 3 years now. Must have emptied the sump a dozen times. Original copper washer. Living on the edge...

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I'm guilty of using Hylomar Wurth DP-300 with a smear on both sides.