Just When I Thought I Was Done With Upgrade $$$

Dan1950 said:

As I see it, it's "6 of one half dozen of the other". Your method require cutting a wire in the bucket and hooking to ground there.

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I agree it's not that critical just that personally, I wouldn't run the ground wire to that location. but from what you said previously, you intended to use the white/brown as a ground for the Eclipse and not the ignition warning that is now going to be used as an oil pressure warning lamp?

Dan1950 said:

The blank warning light socket on the top right will have the ground wired to the oil pressure sending unit with power tapped from the BCM hot lead.

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As far as I can tell that would involve cutting a wire as the original charge warning lamp wires are white and the white/brown that you are now going to use as the Eclipse ground?

L.A.B. said:

I agree it's not that critical just that personally, I wouldn't run the ground wire to that location. but from what you said previously, you intended to use the white/brown as a ground for the Eclipse and not the ignition warning that is now going to be used as an oil pressure warning lamp?



As far as I can tell that would involve cutting a wire as the original charge warning lamp wires are white and the white/brown that you are now going to use as the Eclipse ground?

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I have to splice the Eclipse into the circuit so I will just use a double bullet connecter to tap into the negative side (white wire) for the oil pressure warning light as well as the Eclipse. Then I will run a new ground wire to the oil pressure sending unit for the oil pressure warning light. The ground for the Eclipse will be the existing W/Br.

Just food for thought. With your method there will be a loose wire (W/Br) left in the headlight bucket where my method will use all of the existing wiring.

Ok, that's clearer thanks, so I now follow what you are doing.

Dan1950 said:

Just food for thought. With your method there will be a loose wire (W/Br) left in the headlight bucket where my method will use all of the existing wiring.

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It would be a dead wire so not important.

The suspensory spring in your pictures would normally be fitted the other way around with the open ends of the hooks to the front.

L.A.B. said:

Ok, that's clearer thanks, so I now follow what you are doing.



It would be a dead wire so not important.

The suspensory spring in your pictures would normally be fitted the other way around with the open ends of the hooks to the front.

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Duly noted. The pervious owner did the upgrade to the MK III head steady.

motorson said:

Method two is to let the voltage "pile up" on the generator side of the regulator and only let the needed power come through as required by the load. In this method the energy that is not needed for the lights and ignition is actually never really produced so the crankshaft sees no load for the power you do not need. This would be the MOSFET type being talked about. They should run a lot cooler most of the time. There is no magic though. This method of regulation does not increase the maximum amount of power available.



Fun stuff, Dan.

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It would decrease parasitic loss slightly. I once broke out (ran faster than my dial in time by .001 seconds) while bracket racing when I turned the cooling fans of in My '06 Charger. The reduction of alternator drag sent a bit more power to the wheels.

IME small decreases in parasitic losses can add up. Less alternator load, running the proper oil viscosity (not too much viscosity for the ambient temperatures), reed valve breathers (low or negative crankcase pressure), proper tire inflation, etc.

If you aren't going to get one of the large pricey reg/rec units like you found on ebay (I did not read all the posts to find out what you are doing if anything), you should grab one of the small Blue TriSpark MOSFET units from Greg Marshall before he runs out. Can't beat the price, and based on my experience using PODtronics and TriSpark, it is a more robust device than the PODtronics reg/rect. If you have a PODtronics, you'll probably need a spare eventually anyway.

Schwany said:

If you aren't going to get one of the large pricey reg/rec units like you found on ebay (I did not read all the posts to find out what you are doing if anything), you should grab one of the small Blue TriSpark MOSFET units from Greg Marshall before he runs out. Can't beat the price, and based on my experience using PODtronics and TriSpark, it is a more robust device than the PODtronics reg/rect. If you have a PODtronics, you'll probably need a spare eventually anyway.

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I already bought the unit on eBay.


You did bring up an interesting point. I can save my Podtronics as a spare on the road.