John Player Special restoration project

After a mind-numbing disappearance of the box with new rings in it, new set arrived today.

End gap is zero right out of the box. First pass with the belt grinder produced .006, still not enough

John Player Special restoration project


Just a touch or two to even up the edges and .011 feeler slides in tight

John Player Special restoration project


Prepped to install pistons & cylinders

John Player Special restoration project


A bit of a fiddle without a helper, but the cylinders are in place and snugged down

John Player Special restoration project
 
Set TDC to prep for static timing the points

John Player Special restoration project


Set degree wheel at zero with pistons at TDC.

John Player Special restoration project


Not exactly... Rotate backwards WELL PAST 28 degree mark, past the dial. THEN come FORWARD to 28 degrees BTDC.

John Player Special restoration project


28 degrees BTDC.

John Player Special restoration project


NOW install the fully advanced and chocked AAU / points cam, rotate it counter-clockwise till the points JUST start to open, then tap it home into the camshaft. Install the points plate at mid-adjustment point. Unlock the AAU cam without disturbing it's location on the cam, and install the through bolt tightly. Static timing done.
 
Old (lower) and new (upper) timing cover seals.

John Player Special restoration project


Points JUST opening. Tested with lightweight wrapping paper (same as using cigarette paper)

John Player Special restoration project


Everything torqued down. Just need to adjust the valves and re-install carbs, coils & exhaust. MIGHT get to fire it up Thursday, for sure by Friday.

John Player Special restoration project
 
"Let there be light"...and there was light.

No smoke = good day.

John Player Special restoration project


Neatly bundled wiring. I'll remove the velcro once the wiring gets some "memory". Did they use John Bull rubber wire ties or the solf aluminum ones?

John Player Special restoration project


Ready to attempt a startup once I double-check the points timing and set up a different tank. I thought about using the one from the bobber, but it's 'glass and I don't want to risk contamination as it's not yet lined.

John Player Special restoration project
 
Materials to fabricate (3) sets of JPN fairing mounts arrived Thursday evening; I need to carve out a couple of hours to visit a muffler shop to make 3 bends, then start cutting and welding.

John Player Special restoration project


Another bit of JPN advertising material...

John Player Special restoration project
 
grandpaul said:
Did they use John Bull rubber wire ties or the solf aluminum ones?

Originally from 1972 the Norton Commando used black nylon cable ties. According to the parts book (in page Group 21) there are a total of 14. One of them happens to be listed as 15 inches long which I assume goes around the frame's top tube. The others are 7 3/4 inches and 5 3/4 inches long. The ones I like to use are .190 inch wide made by Thomas & Betts and called Ty-Rap high performance ties. These have a steel tang in the head that holds the cable tie together. They seem to be more infinitely adjustable and the back side of the tie rap that touches the wiring or frame is a lot smoother than the all nylon type ties and less harsh on the painted surface.

Peter Joe
 
First reproduction project: main fairing mount.

John Player Special restoration project


Harbor Freight special pipe bender.

John Player Special restoration project


Although the pipes were filled with sand, the first bend resulted in a slightly flattened profile (fixed with the vice)

John Player Special restoration project
 
Primary parts for the first 3 main mount copies rough cut and ready for sizing.

John Player Special restoration project


First two copies of the main mount welded up.

John Player Special restoration project


Spacers for the lower front mount; a little long so they can be ground and sanded to final size

John Player Special restoration project
 
Front clamp half blanks prepped to drill, spacers finish sized.

John Player Special restoration project


Will need to use an end mill and some spacers to cut the clamp half profiles

John Player Special restoration project


Drilling the clamp halves. Not as precise as I had hoped; I'm ordering more material to do them right on a better drill press.

John Player Special restoration project
 
About half of the holes unacceptably off center.

John Player Special restoration project


Top and front mounts drilled and ready for powdercoat.

John Player Special restoration project
 
I finally received the original pattern JPN Solo seat with upholstery pan-

John Player Special restoration project


Sure looks large...

John Player Special restoration project


Waiting for Airtech to be done copying my fairing, and I'll get all the bodywork on and done!
 
Also got back the fairing brackets from the powdercoater. Next I'll reverse-engineer and pattern one made from square tube as shown in the JPN parts supplement; that will be a bit tricky without a part on hand to match...

John Player Special restoration project
 
I'm glad you also found the holes unacceptably off center

You could always stamp made in CHINA on them
 
Airtech has been dragging with returning my fairings, but the upholsterer made me smile Wednesday with a beautiful job. note the print-outs of photos of every seat that could be clearly seen to get the pattern as clost to correct as possible.

John Player Special restoration project


Very clean upholstery work. One for me, and one for sale with the spare bodywork kit. Only change from original is the slots in the seat base, and the lips on the upholstery pan (unseen). If I can get good clear pix of an original base & pan underside, I'll have a new one made to match.

John Player Special restoration project


(new sticker set on order, these were quite old)
 
Confirmed tracking number on my original fairing and the new Airtech copy; ETA this Friday.

That only leaves one week to assemble, align and trim it all out, then have a shake-down run before the BMOA rallye.

I'm starting to get excited about seeing it together FINALLY. About 6 months since I picked the bike up.
 
I'm very disappointed (upset?) with Airtech; they mis-handled the original fairing and it now has visible crazing in several places. This is the worst, and it's VERY obvious on the right side, in plain view. It goes away at 10 feet, but it'll never "go away" without a respray.

John Player Special restoration project


This will be the spare bodywork kit for sale including mounts and gas tank under the shroud. Windscreen, front fender and decal kits will be included if the buyer wishes.

John Player Special restoration project
 
Points kept giving me fits, the AAU was worn and sticking / "flicking", so I went straight to a new Sparx unit. Set up the crank for static timing.

John Player Special restoration project


Sparx unit static timed here with the white dot in the CCW window.

John Player Special restoration project


Sparx ignition module tucked in neatly and zip-tied to the frame tube. I left all original wiring in place but disconnected and tucked out of view. Buyer will receive the original points with pigtail & AAU.

John Player Special restoration project
 
Rear view. Needs a bit of tweaking to get better symmetry.

John Player Special restoration project


Top view

John Player Special restoration project


Right side beauty shot, FINALLY. I will be doing a proper photo shoot later this week, probably 2 or 3 venues...

John Player Special restoration project
 
Right side close-up

John Player Special restoration project


Front shot, also needs a bit of a tweak on the fender

John Player Special restoration project


Overhead front shot, here the fender is obvious.

John Player Special restoration project
 
Left side close-up

John Player Special restoration project


Left side "not ready for prime time"; missing Union Jack decal on the tail.

John Player Special restoration project


Oblique shot.

John Player Special restoration project
 
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