It's a long way to 920 type(rary)

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Hi There
To day I open again the Maney crankcases becouse I will change the JS 2 cam for a JS 2 smoothramp cam, I feel a hard point at some lateral position of the camshaft, maybe the camshaft is bend or I have to change the camshaft bushes. The camshaft is turning free at is normal position, I will go to the machine shop tomorrow to tchek the camshaft
It's difficult to believe that a camshaft bend, but with a Norton you never know, in the pass I broke a PW 3 camshaft at a drag race
I wil know more when I receive the new camshaft from Fast Eddy, probably tomorrow.
I take out the followers blocks out of the new 920 Maney Cylinder, the new blocks will be there with the camshaft, I hope to receive the new followers from Jim Schmidt one of this day
Keep you posted
Yves
 
Thanks Brooking, I find the Driven brake in oil in the Netherland
To day I was expecting to receive the parts from Jim Schmidt and from Fast Eddy, but nothing happens, maybe tomorrow...
I take the Js 2 camshaft to the machineshop, put it in the lathe, the shaft is straight, so I think I must change the copper bushing in the cases or at least go in with a reamer
Keep you posted
Yves
 
Hi again Yves, with the Driven (Joe Gibbs)break in oil you have quite a few options with this oil.
How I do mine is making sure the ignition timing is correct on the first start up.
Then I take it to a remote area of country roading on tarseal (10 mins here in NZ) and run the bike up and down hills (not steep) not exceeding 3800 RPM and putting some load on the motor in this rev range.
I do this for about 30 km's.
Then I do a retorque on the head bolts when cold, then run the bike again over 30 km on the same piece of roading and up to 5500 rpm, making sure I load the motor (dont let it labour)
I also check the magnetic sump plug for any material.
After that process I drain the break in oil ,install a new filter element, one more head retorque add new normal running oil and go racing.

You can also do a few dyno pulls on that break in oil and as much as one round of racing if required before you change it for the normal running oil.
Great results with my motor so far.
Regards Mike
 
Hi there, good news to day, I receive the new followers from JS, but still nothng from Fast Eddy and this is the JS2 smoothramp camshaft and new tappet blocks. I can do nothing on the camshaft bushes before I receive the new cam. About the bushes, I am afraid that putting new ones can be worster as keeping the old one.
If someone have a good idee how to do it, and keeping the two bushes in line, let us know please.
I already says that you can double your start budget but you can also double the time that you was thinking before
Keep you posted
Yves
 
Brooking 850 said:
Hi again Yves, with the Driven (Joe Gibbs)break in oil you have quite a few options with this oil.
How I do mine is making sure the ignition timing is correct on the first start up.
Then I take it to a remote area of country roading on tarseal (10 mins here in NZ) and run the bike up and down hills (not steep) not exceeding 3800 RPM and putting some load on the motor in this rev range.
I do this for about 30 km's.
Then I do a retorque on the head bolts when cold, then run the bike again over 30 km on the same piece of roading and up to 5500 rpm, making sure I load the motor (dont let it labour)
I also check the magnetic sump plug for any material.
After that process I drain the break in oil ,install a new filter element, one more head retorque add new normal running oil and go racing.

You can also do a few dyno pulls on that break in oil and as much as one round of racing if required before you change it for the normal running oil.
Great results with my motor so far.
Regards Mike
Click to expand...
thanks Brooking, at the moment I wish to do all the works step by step, I will come back to you when the engine is ready to run
Yves
 
Only good news to day:
I receive the JS 2 smoothramp cam and the lifters blocks from Nigel Fast Eddy
The new camshaft allowd me to take a closer look to the problem with the cam bushes, here is what I fond:
Even with the new cam, the problem was still the same, with the camshaft in place and the nut bolted there was still a hard spot...
I take the camshaft out and put it very slowly in the RH case, I discover that the shaft was free turning till the shaft was flush with the sproket side of the bushe, then I try to reverse the camshaft, I try to put him in from outside to inside, but no way to put him in, conclusion: there must be a ridge at the very end of the the bush, I take a file and file under a angle of 45 degree, just a little bit, and great wonder! the camshaft was turning free! Eureka!!
But the question is: wats make a ridge?
The only reason I can find is that the old camshaft as 1mm lateral clearennce, at least when I dismateld the engine, maybe is the clearence the reason for the ridge?
The most impresive is that it was not possible to see the ridge or even feel it with your nail.
I close the cases to see if the camshaft was still turning free; and yes he did!
From now on I can start the real work, tomorrow I will shim the side clearence from the camshaft and put the lobes in line with the followers, but before I wil the new tappet blocks in the cylinder, and if time left I will put the pistons w/o the rings on the conrods, put the cylinder over and check the squish clearence with the head
Keep you posted
yves
 
yves norton seeley said:
But the question is: wats make a ridge?
Click to expand...
It is possible that the bushing was a bit on the tight side when it was originally assembled, then "ran in" to its current clearance. The ridge is, most likely, what the bushing was originally sized to, so the cam feels tight when moving it into that position. You did just fine by filing it away. It's obvious by the fact that there's a ridge left there that the cam never ran in that spot, so you haven't removed anything of consequence. Rock on!

Nathan
 
Thanks Nathan, the bushing are still the original ones from Steve Maney, but wath you explain will be very close to the true
Yves
 
Correct, because the cam came from JS along with Carrillo rods and other such jewellery !
 
Hi There,
Here is wath I did to day, I wish I did more but every step need more time as expected:
I put the new tappet blocks in the cylinder, you must be very carefull with the clearence between the Blocks W/O tapetts and the camshaft, once you have the good clearence then you can bore the blocks for the screw that old the block in place, you can see the procedure at one of the video's from Jim Schmidt.
After, I shim the camshaft for lateral clearence, look if the lobes where facing the tappets, everyting fine! I close the crankases, I call it a day
Tomorrow I will do the squish clearence.
Keep you posted
Yves
 
So... you got the cam on Monday and it’s still not running...?

Disappointing...!
 
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