Intro - Hi from Florida!

I came close to buying this bike. Look closely and you will find that it should be a combat!. It has the 32 carbs and now look for the "C" under the head steady. I am in Sarasota and trying to finish a 1974 850. That is why I passed on the bike. Where in Florida are you located?

The PO said “everyone that wants to buy this is in Florida!”

I looked for but didn’t see the “C”. I’ll check it out.

Coolhands said:

The PO said “everyone that wants to buy this is in Florida!”

I looked for but didn’t see the “C”. I’ll check it out.

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It will be hidden by the head steady

I looked and couldn’t see one. Should be on the right exhaust side correct? Is it under the head steady??

The fins are definitely closer between the head and barrel so maybe it’s a owner conversion. VIN is 202156 if that matters.

Coolhands said:

Is it under the head steady??

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Coolhands said:

VIN is 202156 if that matters.

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Almost certainly would have been a Combat, originally.

Thanks for the clarification on the stamp!

Schwany said:

Unsolicited babble:

Clutch probably is not frozen, and you probably already know that by now. Cold oil viscosity can hold the plates together preventing the clutch from releasing until the oil warms up. You can use ATF, which should let the plates separate easier. Caveat is the clutch center could need to be replaced. It takes me two kicks on the kick start with the clutch lever in to free my clutch when stone cold, unless it sits for a couple of weeks, then it take 4 kicks. (Different Norton Norton Clutch though)

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Thanks for this info! I’ve tried to kick it loose with no luck. Are you recommending running ATF in the primary, or just give it a bath for a bit to free it up?

Coolhands said:

Are you recommending running ATF in the primary, or just give it a bath for a bit to free it up?

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ATF is the preferred lubricant to use in the primary (could be in there now if you haven't drained the primary?) but it probably won't free the clutch by itself.
You could try starting the engine with the rear wheel clear of the ground and rev it up after selecting top gear, then, pull the clutch lever and apply the rear brake a few times whilst holding revs on the throttle (also holding the front brake on just in case) as that might free the plates, and then again, it might not.

Coolhands said:

Thanks for this info! I’ve tried to kick it loose with no luck. Are you recommending running ATF in the primary, or just give it a bath for a bit to free it up?

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I should probably shut the f up. I have the older 3 spring AMC clutch. However, I know that Commando owners are running ATF in the primary. I do run ATF in my primary as well.

If you run the bike for 15 minutes blipping the throttle now and again and let it warm all the way up, then shut it off, you should be able to free the clutch with a few kicks. You can also pull in the clutch lever in with it in gear and rock the bike back and forth to free the clutch. Kind of a desperate pain in the ass measure. If it still won't free up, drain the primary, and pull the primary cover off and check to see what parts of the clutch are still serviceable. Replace anything you feel needs replacing. There should be a butt load of posts on Commando clutch service here. Search is your friend sometimes.

Smell the oil that comes out of the primary. If it smells like there is some hypoid gear oil there, you may have oil weeping into the clutch around the clutch rod. You can purchase and install an aftermarket clutch rod seal that prevents gearbox oil contamination to the clutch. Many Norton parts houses carry it, Baxter, British Cycle Supply, so on. Gearbox oil really makes the clutch plates not want to separate fast enough for smooth gearshifts until the gearbox and clutch get real hot. I do run 75/90 hypoid gear oil in my gearbox, but it is not recommended by some on this site. You'll have to decide on what you want to run in the gearbox.

I would not mess with the rocking and kicking much if freeing the clutch seems futile. You should just drain the primary and get to checking out the clutch. Gotta be done anyway.

Coolhands, where in Florida are you? If you are near Sarasota I could give you a hand. Do yourself a favor and open up the primary cover. Take the clutch and its plates apart and clean them. Once back together, you will be happy that you did. Been there, done that...

Thanks! I’m in Titusville on the east coast so Sarasota is a pretty good hike.

Sarasota Norton said:

Coolhands, where in Florida are you? If you are near Sarasota I could give you a hand. Do yourself a favor and open up the primary cover. Take the clutch and its plates apart and clean them. Once back together, you will be happy that you did. Been there, done that...

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I agree. If you did manage to free them without damage, I'd expect a heavy clutch lever until you clean up the plates. I bought the factory diaphragm spring tool. It's fairly cheap and makes it straightforward to get to the plates. It's also an opportunity to inspect everything under the cover and clean it all up. I also use LAB's suggestion of grease on the primary cover gasket. I've opened the case once since and was able to re-use the gasket without leaks.

Mart UK said:

I also use LAB's suggestion of grease on the primary cover gasket. I've opened the case once since and was able to re-use the gasket without leaks.

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Pre-Mk3s (as this model is), however, use a rubber band primary cover seal, not the paper gasket but grease is still good for other paper gaskets.

big forum welcome from palm coast florida.

Thanks for all the good info everyone. I’m not able to wrench much during the week but I feel so much smarter going into this weekend. Bike is tagged and a test ride is possible today or tomorrow!

Coolhands said:

Thanks for all the good info everyone. I’m not able to wrench much during the week but I feel so much smarter going into this weekend. Bike is tagged and a test ride is possible today or tomorrow!

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Did you free the clutch? Gonna shift kind of hard if you didn't.

Haven’t pulled the primary cover yet. Not my first rodeo so I’m not too worried.

Coolhands said:

Haven’t pulled the primary cover yet. Not my first rodeo so I’m not too worried.

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Do you have the diaphragm spring compressor tool (bought or made?) as it isn't possible to gain access to the plates without one?

I agree with the respondents that say disassemble the clutch. The transmission is a lot more "delicate" than most think; I suggest that you forgo any "dynamic" attempt to free the plates it is just too easy to destroy the transmission.

I have worked on enough motorcycles with stuck clutches so that if I can't clear the plates in 10 kick attempts I roll my sleeves up a few more inches and remove the plates; most packs come out in one fugly lump; give the pack your blessing and bin it.

Do take a look at the hub and basket; most of the hub/baskets that came out of the factory were made with a butter infused alloy and will be notched. If notched replacing the pack won't buy you very much.

You have said you'd like to ride it while the weather cooperates; your Norton will like going for a "walk". You said it had crappy brakes, it probably has 20+ year old tires; they will handle like an invisible being is pouring oil in your path. Please don't let your Norton lull you into false confidence. I applaud your plan to go through it this winter, might be more prudent to pull that effort in the fall? Be nice to have you around while you document your rebuild; welcome BTW, sorry for not being more forthcoming earlier.

Nortons are like mistresses, they go straight for your wallet. Forewarned is forearmed.

Best.

Coolhands said:

Hey folks I’m new. Finally found a 1972 Commando that you folks hadn’t got to yet. Drove up to Raleigh from central Florida to pick it up and trailer home last weekend. Hadn’t run in at least 12 years and from the looks of things hadn’t run much. Lots of parts store wiring connections, leaky glass petrol tank, frozen clutch, no brakes and pretty ugly too! What’s not to love?

Well now it’s mine and it’s going to be beautiful. Didn’t want to post until I had some good content so here’s a couple vids. Fired it up today!

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Leaky glass petrol tank? Using todays fuel destroys original glass tanks & introduces gummy goo in the engine.