I'm looking for a little help.

Thanks for all the help.

I changed the oil. Used a guitar string to clean the bushing in both Amal carbs. I ran a little chem-tool on the spark plugs to clean them off before starting.

I was able to start it and a little oil came out of the breather tube but I think that was just the residue from the last time. Because it pretty much stopped. I road it around the block a couple of times just for the hell of it. I noticed that the clutch is slipping and when I got back it's leaking on the primary side and out of the gearbox at the kick starter spindle. It's also wet at the head gasket. I'd really like it to not leak or smoke during a ride like it used to. So I'm really looking to give the TLC it's needed but has been ignored.

So my new plan is to do a little work on the Norton. Install an Al Miles Anti Sump Valve. Replace the seal on the primary case and replace the clutch plates. Replace the seals on the shifter and the kick starter spindles. Replace the head gasket and possibly check the rings if it doesn't pass a compression check. I also want to replace the clutch, throttle and brake cables. I'll seriously think about installing an electronic ignition. The Norton has never really had a history of hard starting. So it's an investment of cash I don't see a huge return on. I'm a wrong?

I'm also going to rebuild the carbs and I'm thinking about re jetting them for the new elevation. It lived at sea level and Bozeman is at 4,800. Raber's said it wasn't enough to worry about. I tend to believe them I'm just curious if there's anybody with personal experience?

I'll also do the kero thing to the gearbox before I move forward with changing out the seals.

After a good cleaning and polish the side cases the bike should look good again.

Am I missing anything?

Ken

Yes. Clutch pushrod seal kit.

Clutch slipping could be just adjustment, don't get carried away too soon, clean it up first. Primary leak may also just be adjustment of the clearances from inner to outer and a new gasket. Gearbox can be cured with real seals on the shafts. EI is a good idea. Several options on the head gasket. Check out JSMotorsports, I like his idea of copper rings, but it will require some adjustment of the tappets. Doubt that re-jetting is necessary unless you install new exhaust. Only thing you're missing is the tappet covers really need a good seal, just the paper gaskets usually doesn't work. You need a good breather to keep the leaks at bay.

Ken that bike shop you mentioned in San Jose that Bob Raber worked at was I believe owned by Ed Brooks. I don't know the name of the shop but a few years ago after Ed Brooks' wife had passed away the family had an auction of quite a few bikes that Ed had collected and had on display in the shop. Apparently Ed had died in the '00's and his wife just closed the door and left everything as it was until she too passed away. I picked up a ZB34 Goldstar in the auction and had it shipped to Oz. Not long after I emailed Bob Raber asking him if he knew anything of the history of the bike. Apparently it was owned by an Ed Kelly before Ed Brooks bought it off him for display in the shop in 1986. Great guy really helpful.
This is a pic of the bike the day I brought it home.
A bit grungy but not bad for having sat in a shop for over 30 years!
After cleaning all it's old fluids out really well it started easily although it does leak quite a bit of oil. It's going to get a strip down in the not too distant future.
Yours looks like a nice bike. Your lucky to have a dad that owned it and passed it on to you.

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Damn! Love that muffler!!

Sweet bike! Bob was always really nice and toke the time to chat with his customers.

As a kid I got to go there and Kenny Roberts Shop walking home from school on 13th St. I wish I knew at the time how lucky I was. Great memories growing up around all these bikes.

Again to everyone thanks for all the great info.

Ken

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better have a read of this .

If the inside of the castings were gunge coated , would be time to P A N I C .

Some pictures here show one sitting for years , where the ' crud ' has all migrated to the bottom of the houseings , visable with timing cover OFF .

If also it had migrated to the bottom of the SUMP , on start up - it'd all get pumped through the bearings , if it didnt get stuck in the Crank .
Which is where the cavity is to collect it . Not exactly the latest thing in tecnology there . .

The Question is how clean the insides are and if its accumulated more in the crank than is safe , or if its going to stay put .

Almost started a thread on this , but its been covered . But is one of the foibles of the machine to understant .

Assumeing crank & Rod Bolt Availability ( Real Ones :x ) & a few gaskets , its not a lot more bolts , & only a week or two more meddling
to pull the swucker right down , that way youre intamate with all its idiosycracies . May as well fork out for the service tools , as theyre essential
for maintanance / serviceing , and no real mechanic would consider acousting the thing without them .

However , IF the bottom of the timeing cover & Oil Tank havnt got accumeulated gunge , youre likely save evadeing this . Though some say its a 40.000
mile ' service ' item . Any Filter Element type oil filter would pick a lot of it up beforehand , due to particle size selection , even in the Return Feed .

RIGHT . Now Thats of My Chest . !

Welcome aslink

One of my favourite tips: I cured the leak from my kickstart by simply using a metric O ring, 25mm ID x 4mm section. It's thicker than the standard imperial ring and so is a tighter fit in the groove.
If that doesn't work, then try machining the cover for a proper seal as suggested.

Martin

MFB said:

Welcome aslink

One of my favourite tips: I cured the leak from my kickstart by simply using a metric O ring, 25mm ID x 4mm section. It's thicker than the standard imperial ring and so is a tighter fit in the groove.
If that doesn't work, then try machining the cover for a proper seal as suggested.

Martin

Click to expand...

The Norton kickstart leak is really interesting to me as I have a Commando that doesn't leak at all but a Dominator that leaks like sieve. I personally rebuilt both gearboxes and both have the standard factory O-ring so clearly it works sometimes and not others! As suggested, better to fit a real oil seal or upgrade to a larger cross section O-ring.

MFB said:

Welcome aslink

One of my favourite tips: I cured the leak from my kickstart by simply using a metric O ring, 25mm ID x 4mm section. It's thicker than the standard imperial ring and so is a tighter fit in the groove.
If that doesn't work, then try machining the cover for a proper seal as suggested.

Martin

Click to expand...

I had my gearbox apart a short while ago to replace the layshaft bearing with the high performance ball bearing Mick Hemmings recommends.
I had a set of gaskets including a new kickstart shaft "O" Ring and since taking the outer cover off in the future would be easy enough if the new "O" ring leaked I thought I'd try something.
I intentionally over drove the Kickstart Outer Bush in on the "O" ring to squeeze it further out into the hole so as to put more pressure on the kickstart shaft.
Definitely squeezing the shaft pretty hard since the kickstart arm actually now returns up at a noticeably slower rate than previously.
After about 250 miles no sign of a leak.

Okay, it's been awhile but I'm finally able to get the Norton on a lift borrowed from a neighbor, yippee.

Game plan is rebuild carbs, when I uncovered it and looked seriously at it the throttle was stuck closed. After a bit of time I was able to get it apart. So a rebuild seems reasonable. Next is replace o-rings at shifter and kick starter. New rubber on primary side. After talking with Bob at Raber's replace oil with Torco 20-50. And get it back on the road at which point I can tinker with things in spare time.

Really just want to get it up and running.





New my current problem is getting the outer cover of the gearbox off. Shop manual says leave shifter on to help remove cover you may need to tap it to get it loose. Well I've tapped and pulled and this sucker is not budging, any tips?

Er , I see your Nylon Hammer . Good Move . But a twice as big RUBBER one might be needed .

As Noah's brother put the cover on , its Not Used to Coming Off .

The Long Studs tend to Hold It Fast .
Is a Video of a baboon with a rubber mallet attacking a BMW Exhaust Nut .( Id use Nylon there ) Get Him Round ! .

UM . Have a look at the cover . ' tapping ' is a bit underkill . A Good Belt / Whack / Swing . HENCE the RUBBER Mallet . MASS .

The Good Look is to ensure you attack it at the hard points , tighter curves , corners . etc . Adjacent the mating flange .
The Flats or unsuported bits COULD distort , wewith the force .

Like laying a brick or Fitting a Tyre with a mallet , di di di di di di , bouncing tappety tappety tap tap tap , with the odd good bang / clout .
And not a indiciseive ' will it ' but a focussed ' It Is ( in time ) ' mental disposition .

Even When its cracked loose , the tough old gaskets going to be a bear , and yopu HAVE to keep it SQUARE on the Studs .

The tricks to work around bouncing it , tappety tap tap , like. With the odd good clout ( strategically placed - usually across the retainers ) thrown in .

Once its Cracked , just . Its likely STARTEd , your half way through . CAREFULLY work opposite , and back . Alternating Sides .

A Pry Bar in there isnt a good idea. Though a ( Pair of ) Hardwood Wedges ( door stoppers ? ) can be used . Or Several . KEEPING IT EVEN - The Gap .

A Stanley Knife to cot the gasket when itll slip in , they mayve used Guy Fawkes Guts for Garters there . Sometimes theyre real stringy , sometimes theyre not .

GLAREING at it Firmly , It Will Glare Back . This Communication is essential to good workmanship . Takes time to establish a Repore . Remember Its Bigger than You .
And Knows a Lot Morew , regarding itself .

Calmness & Deciseiveness ( that you get with knowledge / familiarity ) Help . LOOK UP the pieces on Google Pics , that way your a step ahead .

Are things like Castrol engine flush useful in long sitting bikes. Mike

Rubber mallet. Got one. I'll try tomorrow, thanks.

A few years back I had problems removing the outer cover, I fitted a ratchet strap to it. Ramped it up and tapped the cover with a hide mallet and off she popped. No wedges ,no prybars,no blood , no damage and no " think you used enough dynamite there Butch".