Idle problem solved

Haha I'm not a fan of hearing my self on videos, sound bloody terrible!
The Norton badge on the throttle I found kicking about at Norton. It comes on all the Jenvy throttle bodies, and covers the hole that you can see the throttle spindle through. I just thought it helped dress up that area a little being stuck there.
 
Stu Bodycote said:
Haha I'm not a fan of hearing my self on videos, sound bloody terrible!
The Norton badge on the throttle I found kicking about at Norton. It comes on all the Jenvy throttle bodies, and covers the hole that you can see the throttle spindle through. I just thought it helped dress up that area a little being stuck there.
Click to expand...
Looks Factory !
 
I did a couple little videos for the 961 guys...mainly fuel tank removal. Ive not really got the time to push youtube any further than that though. I use videos to communicate with my customers ie as 95% of bikes are left with me and not waiting jobs, and also as most are delivered via courier, I find a video walk around of their bike, highlighting any problems and my proposed plan of action, seems to be well received.
 
cliffa said:
That's great to hear Tony. It would be interesting to put some vacuum gauges on each throttle barrel to see how even they are no
Click to expand...
We have. They get close but still uneven.

Just a word of caution to those reading this thread. If your motorcycle works then don't mess with it. We have 961's that are perfect without any mods except cleaning up the ecu issues(Typhoon) and went to delete the IAC and then had issues.

We found this works wonders on the 961's that convert to the Delta 400 with the latest map SCS provided and those that have really bad idle/running issues. Before doing this make sure everything else is working or updated correctly.
 
Voodooo said:
For a knob like myself, can you provide a part number and how this set up works?
Dose it require a different throttle cable?
Will this work on both my dominator and also my commando? The commando has regular handle bars
Click to expand...
ITs a great idea and you can find used ones on EBAY etc. This assembly was used on the mid to late 90's bikes. The throttle cams in these are aggressive as Stu states so be careful as the cams in some of these throttle tubes only require an 1/8 turn to get to full open. Please listen to his warning about single cable systems. We agree and wouldn't put this on a customers motorcycles.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/2248791676...2RTwqkN5PrNSZiwRkcrKlqKhHnB16vOQaAu27EALw_wcB
 
TonyA said:
I wanted to bring this thread back because I have had good success with the blocking of the IAC passage as well. I must admit I was hesitant to go the whole way but I finally did it . I had been running the block at the Idle motor only just to get a basic setting of the throttle flaps voltage . But I have since had a aluminum plug made to block the passage between the throats and wanted to report back.
First : The idle is fantastic , stable and never varies once warmed up.
Second : The starting is improved - hell yes starts and idles at 800 rpm just like iwilson been saying !
Third : The bike is quieter and smoother at idle .
Fourth : Off idle throttle response superb , where it should have been all along .

My thanks to all involved especially iwilson for his work with this .
Click to expand...
Good to hear it worked out for you Tony. My experience has been pretty much the same as you describe. I've found the off idle response makes the bike so different to ride.

I'd be interested to hear what your thoughts are on how much battery you think is required during start after the change too.
 
Gojuu said:
Good to hear it worked out for you Tony. My experience has been pretty much the same as you describe. I've found the off idle response makes the bike so different to ride.

I'd be interested to hear what your thoughts are on how much battery you think is required during start after the change too.
Click to expand...
Let me make sure I understand what you are asking . You want to know at what battery voltage the bike becomes hard to start ?
Cranks over but won't fire/start ? Might actually be the ECU and not the IAC mod ?
 
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Gojuu said:
Yep. Do you think cranking effort is less due to the IAC not feeding air.
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YES , Similar to doing a compression test with the throttle flaps closed . OK I will run some tests including how long I can leave the bike off the charger and it still starts .
 
TonyA said:
YES , Similar to doing a compression test with the throttle flaps closed . OK I will run some tests including how long I can leave the bike off the charger and it still starts .
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Im currently thinking the same. I’m beginning to be believe strongly that the ECU on any bike should be programmed to leave the IAC shut while cranking…….
 
No, just the chronoclassic, which is an awesome bit of kit.
I do like the look of their contactless ignition though!
 

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City Garage said:
We have. They get close but still uneven.

Just a word of caution to those reading this thread. If your motorcycle works then don't mess with it. We have 961's that are perfect without any mods except cleaning up the ecu issues(Typhoon) and went to delete the IAC and then had issues.

We found this works wonders on the 961's that convert to the Delta 400 with the latest map SCS provided and those that have really bad idle/running issues. Before doing this make sure everything else is working or updated correctly.
Click to expand...
It’s a shame there is not really a way to block the cross passage temporarily to see if it improves a particular bike.
 
Stu Bodycote said:
Mines never on a charger......Motogadget speedo :cool:
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Wish I had one of those dominator single gauge mounts for my dominator. (.interested in buying the single gauge mount if anyone has one or a lead to one)

What’s involve in wiring the motogadget gauge? Did you have to use one of their Mo unit or Mo can bus modules?
 
My main harness was one that I'd use in service for repairs ie it was missing most of its connectors apart from the ecu connector, as the electrical department had chopped them all off, and it was missing a few lengths of cable that I'd used for repairs. So I modified that loom over the originals as and where I saw fit, along with removing anything from the old clock wiring, and then made up new connector blocks to suit the motogadget. It all plugs in together like a factory harness, and has no adaptors anywhere. I also used nice overbraid for visually obvious parts of the loom....and for the number plate lamp, I ran the loom inside the standard number plate hanger tubing with a connector just near the caliper. The build is full of stuff like that, that most wont ever notice tbh
 
Sorry, Ive yet again taken a thread off on a tangent.... I'm terrible for it. Any questions on my bike, feel free to fire my way via the tab tank domi thread
 
TonyA said:
Let me make sure I understand what you are asking . You want to know at what battery voltage the bike becomes hard to start ?
Cranks over but won't fire/start ? Might actually be the ECU and not the IAC mod ?
Click to expand...
The ECU isn't the issue on low voltage. The ECU while a little more technical is basically just a switching and reading hub. Its how the components it trigger react to low voltage. The starter is the biggest draw but it is not dependent on the ECU. The IAC/ICM is controlled by the ECU but if the ECU only gets 11v from the battery at start then the IAC only gets 11v. So if the battery is weak and the draw is excessive when starting the IAC doesn't work well, or it steps slowly is more correct to say. Some of the IAC recover quickly when the bike is started a voltage increases but some freeze or stutter which causes many of the idle issues.

Also unless you have that same battery, each battery will preform different than each other. CCA and capacity make a difference. SO your bike might not start with 11v someone's else will. Also, some of the 961's have the ability to shut off the front headlamp some don't, etc
 

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