I see the light...

Status
Not open for further replies.
i been thinking about one of those LED bicycle lights that clamp on bars I 'done seen' them on bisickle riders out in the country on same roads where I take my rides and they seem like a good add on to my headlight ..anybody tried them? recommendation? a clamp on one could be moved from bike to bike..
I used to ride a lot of night time mountain biking. Very much fun. But, the light I used was a halogen and not LED - but my buddy had one. The range is not bad - for a bicycle, but I think the beam pattern is pretty narrow and does not throw as far as I would like for a mc.
 
Like many things in life, this is one of those topics that makes you realise how little you understand about it!

Exactly what does 10, 20, 50% brighter look like? Do LEDs look brighter because they’re whiter? Does a whiter light actually improve night vision, or does it just ‘look’ brighter? Etc.

There’s no question they look brighter and they’re MUCH better at making you MUCH more visible to half asleep / distracted car drivers, day or night, so they’re worth it for that alone. I don’t know if you guys have noticed, but these days some bicycle lights are brighter than some older motorcycles lights, with super bright lights everywhere, dim lights make you harder for car drivers to spot, especially in busy cities.

But whether or not they improve the riders vision at night, and if so, by how much, I really don’t know yet, my assumption at the moment is they’re quite a lot better, but I gotta get out and see.

Kommando, I think you’re right about dipping the beam a tad, that’s something I’ll experiment with.

Nigel - I tried to write up all my old and somewhat stale photographic knowledge, on how light works, but I deleted it as it was too complex and poorly written.

Exactly what does 10, 20, 50% brighter look like?

Lumens are how light is measured, the total quantity of visible light emitted by a source per unit of time.

The lumen can be thought of casually as a measure of the total "amount" of visible light in some defined beam or angle, or emitted from some source. The number of candelas or lumens from a source also depends on its spectrum, via the nominal response of the human eye.

A light is x% "brighter" because it gives of x% more lumens.

Second, we cant talk about Watts - like we have always done for incandescent or halogen bulbs. Look at this chart to see how watts affect output (lumens) in differing bulb types. This is from home-type bulbs, but the principle applies.

I see the light...


Do LEDs look brighter because they’re whiter? Does a whiter light actually improve night vision, or does it just ‘look’ brighter?

Perception is how you deal with the objective of lumens and color spectrum in your eyes/mind. It depends on the environment, your eyes, and color. But the simple answer to your question is Yes.

"White" light from LED or HID lights is actually more balanced and thus more blue than incandescent/halogen light (yellow) or sodium street lights (orange). Blue light boosts attention, reaction times, and mood and can disrupt your circadian rhythms (sleep patterns) by 1-3 hours with nighttime use (which is why phones and tablets are bad for sleep before bed).

Studies have shown that people perceive an orange-lit street as darker than a white-lit street, even when identical levels of luminance are provided. It’s also been shown that white light doubles a driver’s peripheral vision and reduces their braking times by 25 per cent when compared to sodium orange.

Read this - a simple two minute read that should help you understand the basics a bit more.

https://blog.amerlux.com/4-things-architects-should-know-about-lumens-vs-perceived-brightness/
 
Last edited:
Wow. Thanks for that.

Yesterday light bulbs were, well, light bulbs.

Today they’re not!

Life’s complicated innit?!
 
I may have missed it but other than maylar asking which lens is used I see no mention of the lens. I think the lens (or in the case of the modern plastic lights, the reflector) is just as important. It determines where the light is shown. Also critical is the location of the element or in the case of leds the led. If it is not the correct distance from the reflector/lens then the pattern will not be correct. I do believe most bulb manufacturers have the placement correct as they have been doing this since the demise of pre-focus lenses. I suspect there are many makers of led lights that are not as concerned/aware of this aspect of the light.
 
Nigel, your Paul Goff 5K on main seems to be missing the lower half of the light which is included in the dip selection. I have the dynamo regulator LED. On dip, I get the top LED which directs the lighting down. When I select the "High beam", I get both sides of the LED together, and the lower illumination of the dip setting is still there. I wonder if our wiring is different or if our bulbs are designed to work differently.

If you look from anywhere in front of the headlight shell you can see which parts of your LED light up on each setting. As I said, the top side on mine lights up for "dip" and both sides light up for "high beam". I wonder if yours are the same.

Until I can get out and ride it on unlit roads at night I’m not gonna be sure what’s what. I’m not sure as much of the low beam is ‘missing’ As it appears, ref gortnippers article, I suspect it’s partly an illusion created by how bright the main part of the beam is.

But, you got me thinking about parts of the build switching off between dip and main and, on all my bikes, halogen or LED, the dip part of the bulb definitely switches off when on main. However, I’m pretty sure that in my car this is not the case and dip remains on, even when on high beam.

Question to those cleverer than me: does this sound correct / normal?

It occurred to me that a bulb designed with the car style ‘dip remains on’ function may not work well in a bike style ‘dip switches off function’.
 
I have a PG's LD BPF LED bulb in my C'do. On main, dip remains on.

The LED head light in my Commando has a great dip but an anti aircraft search light for a main bean. This could be caused by my reflector, though I am considering leaving the dip on with the main beam to fill in the dark near-to area but the question is, would the LED overheat?
 
It's not that difficult to tell Nigel which LED's are lit on each setting. Basically your LED's are on 2 sides of a flattened paddle. If you select the "dip" beam, then only the LED's on the top of the paddle light up and the upper half of your reflector throws the light downward and out. It's easy to see if that's the case by peaking your head out in front of the headlight shell and seeing if the lower half of your headlight is relatively dark on the "dip" setting.

When you select the main beam, then the lower half of the LED lights up, and the lower part of the reflector throws light up and out which is why the main beam is blinding to oncoming vehicles. Again, you can poke your head around the front of your headlight and see if both the top and bottom LED's are illuminated on the "high beam" setting by seeing if the upper and lower reflectors are both brightly lit.

In the case of my "Dynamoregulator brand" bought LED, I get only the top half lit up when selecting "dip" , and then both top and bottom lit up selecting "high beams". Your bulb may be doing the same, but I noticed how the lower illumination seemed to disappear in your pictures when the Goff LED was on the "high beam" selection which made me think possibly that the upper half of your LED is turned off when you select the "high beam".

... and if it's true I might call Goff and ask him if it's supposed to work that way. Mine doesn't, but it's a different brand, but that lower directed light should not go away on "high beams" IMO.
 
What was the consensus of these accounts, bulbs good or bad? Dip the headlight a tad or leave it high?
Hi Eddie
The consensus is overwhelming positive to a much brighter clearer definition low beam. several rider have commented on the high main beam, but as the whether they dip the lamp or actually turn the headlamp on its pivots isn't mentioned
 
Until I can get out and ride it on unlit roads at night I’m not gonna be sure what’s what. I’m not sure as much of the low beam is ‘missing’ As it appears, ref gortnippers article, I suspect it’s partly an illusion created by how bright the main part of the beam is.

But, you got me thinking about parts of the build switching off between dip and main and, on all my bikes, halogen or LED, the dip part of the bulb definitely switches off when on main. However, I’m pretty sure that in my car this is not the case and dip remains on, even when on high beam.

Question to those cleverer than me: does this sound correct / normal?

It occurred to me that a bulb designed with the car style ‘dip remains on’ function may not work well in a bike style ‘dip switches off function’.

This does depend on the bulbs employed... if were talking H4 then they don't come on together mainly due to the heat generated
 
Ok, the plot thickens.

I have Goffs new 5k LED, that’s what was shown above in comparison to the two halogens.

And I have his 4K LED.

The 5K is silver, and does not have a heat sink protruding into the shell. Instead it has an inbuilt fan which sits inside the lens. Which is interesting as Goff says “The heatsink is positioned in front of the mounting rather than behind so not taking up so much room. No silly fans required”. The space part is true, but I can assure y’all it has a fan in there, I can both see and hear it.

The 4K is black, has a heat zinc that protrudes into the shell (no fan) and has the connector on a short length of wire (which helps reduce the overall length). To create more space in the shell when I fitted this bulb (keen to keep wires from pressing too hard onto the heat sink) I fitted a shallower Wipac lens that Goff sells.

I can confirm that both bulbs definitely switch the dip OFF when on main and vice versa, as mentioned by Olympus above. As to whether or not it would be wise to wire them up differently so that both stayed on when on main I do not know. Again, as mentioned by Olympus above, I would be concerned that heat would be an issue. Perhaps it’s different if the bulb is designed to run that way. But I ain’t tampering with the wiring and risking a headlamp shell meltdown.

I’ll try and repeat the stationary back garden test of these two tonight. I will also try the Lucas and Wipac lenses.

I have ridden with the 4K in the Wipac and thought it was fantastic, hence I was rather hoping the 5K would be even fantasticer!

Maybe the the Wipac lens is better than the Lucas that I tested the 5k in above?

Wait for tonight’s instalment to find out more...
 
I have a Wipac lens, but of a different design - it's a plastic "Quadoptic". I tried a LED very similar to Goff's 4K that I got off Amazon, but it wouldn't fit - kept hitting the switch and warning lights. I've had a halogen in it for years with no fit problems, so hopefully the 5K is gonna fit too.

A fan you say? Must be a small bugger.
 
If you look at the pic below, you can see that the shell side of the 5k is much smaller than the 4k. In fact the 4k fouls the cluster of wire harness in my T140 shell that would require careful platting to avoid being pressed up hard against the heat sink:
I see the light...


The cheeky little fan in the 5k is located in here. Tis indeed ‘a small bugger’:
I see the light...
 
I replaced my stock head light with an H4 bulb and lens years ago. This summer I bought an H4 LED from Classic British Spares.
Installed it in two minutes, it just plugged right in.
Its one of the best things I have done to my ride and wish I had put one in years ago.
Much better light.

I see the light...
 
I converted to an LED a few years ago, using an H4-style of reflector. 'Couldn't be happier! This is an earlier generation lamp that has a heat sink and fan protruding out the back into the shell, with the electronics in a separate case. Due to its internal wiring, both lamps light when on high beam. It's great in that it helps to fill in the road in the foreground, in addition to lighting up the way-out-there.
As for the intensity of the light, it doesn't appear much brighter than the H4 it replaced. However, as others have noted, the "bluer" light does appear to give better definition of objects at night, is more obvious to oncoming drivers during daylight hours, and really makes road signs, fog lines, and animal eyes light up at night. All that, and about 1/3 the current draw over the H4 60/55W it replaced.
 
New Goff 5k. Lucas lens. Dip beam. Very good:
I see the light...


Goff 5k. Lucas lens. Main beam. Very bright, but main beam a bit high. Illumination of the nearer ground not so great:
I see the light...


Goff 4k. Wipac lens. Dip beam. Better than ha,Ogden but not as good as the 5k:
I see the light...


Goff 4k. Wipac lens. Main beam. Not as good as the Lucas it seems.
I see the light...


Goff 5k. Wipac lens. Dip beam. Good, but not as good as the 5k Lucas lens dip:
I see the light...


Goff 5k. Wipac lens. Main beam. Good, lower than the Lucas lens. But overall I think the Lucas lens lowered a bit would take it:
I see the light...



Summary: both the 4k and 5k Goff bulbs are brighter the halogens. The Lucas lens does seem better than the Wipac. The 4k in the Wipac is what I’ve ridden with before and thought it was great. But the 4k in the Lucas looks better. Still, high main beam worries aside, I think the 5k in the Lucas takes it.

Actual riding is required now to finalise this.
 
Nowhere did I say that I was suggesting you rewire the Goff LED. I was only questioning if the Goff LED was designed to work the way it appeared it was working in your pictures. My suggestion for you to call Goff was just to confirm that it was working as designed.
 
Nowhere did I say that I was suggesting you rewire the Goff LED. I was only questioning if the Goff LED was designed to work the way it appeared it was working in your pictures. My suggestion for you to call Goff was just to confirm that it was working as designed.

Yes, I understand that, I will talk to him. I’m now quite certain these bulbs are working as intended, what I’d like to discuss with Paul is why this is so and does he do anything different.
 
Nigel, What happens wrt main/dip using a halogen on your bike? Just wondering if this is a switching behaviour?
 
For the record - this one is no good. It was cheap and its a 5" LED but it doesn't keep up with the 5-1/2" halogen 5006


I see the light...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top