I need Manxman info

seattle##gs said:
It is looking like the smart thing to do is to keep a stock motor.
Best place to get pistons if I need them? .030 is the highest I can go safely? And who makes .030 pistons? Odd size to find. Neither of us has any idea of what is in the motor. It is all together and looks good from the outside. If reringing is reasonable we might go that way, especially if the motor can only be bored .030. Best place for rings? I would like a 3 piece oil ring. Perhaps Total seal can make a set...anyone else?

**H ow about balancing? I had my Atlas balanced to 64% and it was an improvement. The owner will not be riding this bike hard. It will be a Sunday bike. High RPMs will not be reached for very long. Perhaps Commando rods?

If this were your motor how would you build a strong and reliable stock motor?

**How about a six start oil pump? I have two extra.

WELL originally its was BHB that made 30 plus oversize pistons and ring set to fit has there listed in my Norton Manxman parts manual dated December 1960 SO there out there somewhere I managed to find plus 10 oversize and piston rings to the stock ones BHB so get looking !
 
Nortons introduced oil squirt holes in conrods at some point,
to 'solve' a problem that actually turned out to be piston related.
The question is - were these BHB's before or after this realisation ?

AND, piston problems in modern bikes are almost unknown.
Although oils have improved a lot in the intervening years also...

Maybe modern pistons aren't so bad at all ?

??
 
dynodave said:
Featherbed clutch/belt drive

First to get out of the crap we will have to endure from anna, and you are not likely building a Manxman, so you can drop the name to make life easy for us all.
Specifically, a Manxman is a forerunner of the 650SS and is basically the same, except the blue paint job, small tank, with a resultant forward moved seat, first with a 18" rear wheel, red seat. IIRC 62 Manxman or 650SS still had standard 62 tin...oiltank and taillight and maybe more minor things.
63 with new tin, Home market may have gone back to 19" rear wheel. Otherwise none of this is important to your project, or me

belt drive:
1. Clubman is a prime stocking agent in the US for RGM products. They have AT10 belt drives.
2. As far as I know, Norvil does not have any full line prime stocking agent in the US. Fair Spares is maybe the closest thing. They have HTD style belt drives and offer more ratios than RGM.
3. I'd highly suggest to use a commando tranny main shaft and commando clutch centre rather than what they offer, which is a modified commando clutch centre on a featherbed main shaft.
here's why:
http://atlanticgreen.com/naclueng.htm

I have 3 of each type on the table behind me (no I'm not selling any)
The atlas/featherbed/coil spring release cam/arm is entirely adequate and fine for the diaphragm clutch. You would likely need a commando clutch rod, which is a bit longer.
If you want access to my old article on commando clutches, email me for the current link name. I renamed it due to the morons on this forum, I got tired of their crap over a 15-minute experiment.

Well I object to these comment of, Get the crap we will have endured from anna all my information is from the Norton owners clubs own factory records and the 1961 Norton Manxman export only parts manual So if this is the crap you are talking about what have you to offer has what I have read of your posting there is some conflicting information I have rebuilt many Nortons in my time and owned many too, and well over some 40 odd years and rebuilt my own Norton Manxman and well before you or anyone came on the seen with a Norton Manxman is was me that did the research From Norton archives and I can tell you that there are many parts only fitted to the Manxman and the some what later machine The 650ss was a Dressed down version of the Manxman built with common parts to make the production some what cheaper to make, But this did not stop the down turn of the finances Of Norton And the AMC board And the Norton twin was intended to be only a stop gap engine! Norton should have continued with the development of the 1950 BRM four liquid cooled Double over head cam unit construction engine but this engine did end up in a car and raced and have race wins
 
Paul W said:
Dynodave states that one of his engines in the photograph "1953 500cc model 7 code 12 aluminium head"

It would have had an iron head of that age, fact!

Happy New Year.

Well yes Norton In 1953 did do some cylinder heads in aluminium But on special order only And someone said Norton Roadholders were made from 1946, well this is untrue I have Photos of Freddie Frith On a Manx Norton at the North-West 200 the year was 1938 the Manx was fitted with road-holders and Harrold Dannels rode a Manx in the same year at Donnington park June 1938 it was fitted with Roadholders forks And the first Featherbed frame was fitted with road-holder forks from 1950 and in 1951 Dick Clayton did the ISDT ON a Featherbed Norton twin
 
The girder forks on Nortons were called "Roadholders', before telescopic forks had even been invented !!
BTW, prewar tele forks from Nortons had no hydraulic damping inside. !
Everyone rushed to copy BMs fancy new forks - but didn't copy the insides ??

That "Worlds Best Roadholder" slogan is quite ancient, when you look into it...
Nortons brochures through the 1930s were simply labelled The Roadholder.

We diverge from Manxmans (Manxmen!) a little ere though....

I need Manxman info
 
well dave mate I had Nortons for well over 40 odd years and worked on all Norton twins from 250cc to 750cc and some Norton singles as well OHC and OHV and side valve 16H and own a early model 88 of 1953 vintage works racer now rebuilt back to stock trim and a very early 650 Manxman and a 1963 atlas Scrambler and I will be rebuilding a model 99 of 1962 vintage the came from Germany two tone grey
 
Featherbed clutch/belt drive

First-to get out of the crap we will have to endure from anna, and you are not likely building a manxman, so you can drop the name to make life easy for us all.
Specifically a manxman is a forerunner of the 650SS and is basically the same, except the blue paint job, small tank, with a resultant forward moved seat, first with a 18" rear wheel, red seat. IIRC 62 manxman or 650SS still had standard 62 tin...oiltank and taillight and maybe more minor things.
63 with new tin, Home market may have gone back to 19" rear wheel. Otherwise none of this is important to your project, or me

belt drive:
1. Clubman is a prime stocking agent in the US for RGM products. They have AT10 belt drives.
2. As far as I know, Norvil does not have any full line prime stocking agent in the US. Fair Spares is maybe the closest thing. They have HTD style belt drives and offer more ratios than RGM.
3. I'd highly suggest to use a commando tranny mainshaft and commando clutch center rather than what they offer, which is a modified commando clutch center on a featherbed mainshaft.
heres why:
http://atlanticgreen.com/naclueng.htm

I have 3 of each type on the table behind me (no I'm not selling any)
The atlas/featherbed/coil spring release cam/arm is entirely adequate and fine for the diaphragm clutch. You would likely need a commando clutch rod, which is a bit longer.
If you want access to my old article on commando clutches, email me for the current link name. I renamed it due to the morons on this forum, I got tired of their crap over a 15 minute experiment.

Hello so factory documents I own are all crap then and not as good as the information you come out with and with no respect for others information you not going to learn much with this kind of attitude are you, mate And the best belt drive is a BOB NEWBY far better then a norvil witch can be lethal if not set up right and doing all this to an historical motorcycle is sacrilege and the 650ss was made for the home market were as the Manxman was made for the USA market the the Yanks get the best, bikes not cut down 650ss until late 1961
 
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