seattle##gs said:It is looking like the smart thing to do is to keep a stock motor.
Best place to get pistons if I need them? .030 is the highest I can go safely? And who makes .030 pistons? Odd size to find. Neither of us has any idea of what is in the motor. It is all together and looks good from the outside. If reringing is reasonable we might go that way, especially if the motor can only be bored .030. Best place for rings? I would like a 3 piece oil ring. Perhaps Total seal can make a set...anyone else?
**H ow about balancing? I had my Atlas balanced to 64% and it was an improvement. The owner will not be riding this bike hard. It will be a Sunday bike. High RPMs will not be reached for very long. Perhaps Commando rods?
If this were your motor how would you build a strong and reliable stock motor?
**How about a six start oil pump? I have two extra.
dynodave said:Featherbed clutch/belt drive
First to get out of the crap we will have to endure from anna, and you are not likely building a Manxman, so you can drop the name to make life easy for us all.
Specifically, a Manxman is a forerunner of the 650SS and is basically the same, except the blue paint job, small tank, with a resultant forward moved seat, first with a 18" rear wheel, red seat. IIRC 62 Manxman or 650SS still had standard 62 tin...oiltank and taillight and maybe more minor things.
63 with new tin, Home market may have gone back to 19" rear wheel. Otherwise none of this is important to your project, or me
belt drive:
1. Clubman is a prime stocking agent in the US for RGM products. They have AT10 belt drives.
2. As far as I know, Norvil does not have any full line prime stocking agent in the US. Fair Spares is maybe the closest thing. They have HTD style belt drives and offer more ratios than RGM.
3. I'd highly suggest to use a commando tranny main shaft and commando clutch centre rather than what they offer, which is a modified commando clutch centre on a featherbed main shaft.
here's why:
http://atlanticgreen.com/naclueng.htm
I have 3 of each type on the table behind me (no I'm not selling any)
The atlas/featherbed/coil spring release cam/arm is entirely adequate and fine for the diaphragm clutch. You would likely need a commando clutch rod, which is a bit longer.
If you want access to my old article on commando clutches, email me for the current link name. I renamed it due to the morons on this forum, I got tired of their crap over a 15-minute experiment.
Paul W said:Dynodave states that one of his engines in the photograph "1953 500cc model 7 code 12 aluminium head"
It would have had an iron head of that age, fact!
Happy New Year.
Featherbed clutch/belt drive
First-to get out of the crap we will have to endure from anna, and you are not likely building a manxman, so you can drop the name to make life easy for us all.
Specifically a manxman is a forerunner of the 650SS and is basically the same, except the blue paint job, small tank, with a resultant forward moved seat, first with a 18" rear wheel, red seat. IIRC 62 manxman or 650SS still had standard 62 tin...oiltank and taillight and maybe more minor things.
63 with new tin, Home market may have gone back to 19" rear wheel. Otherwise none of this is important to your project, or me
belt drive:
1. Clubman is a prime stocking agent in the US for RGM products. They have AT10 belt drives.
2. As far as I know, Norvil does not have any full line prime stocking agent in the US. Fair Spares is maybe the closest thing. They have HTD style belt drives and offer more ratios than RGM.
3. I'd highly suggest to use a commando tranny mainshaft and commando clutch center rather than what they offer, which is a modified commando clutch center on a featherbed mainshaft.
heres why:
http://atlanticgreen.com/naclueng.htm
I have 3 of each type on the table behind me (no I'm not selling any)
The atlas/featherbed/coil spring release cam/arm is entirely adequate and fine for the diaphragm clutch. You would likely need a commando clutch rod, which is a bit longer.
If you want access to my old article on commando clutches, email me for the current link name. I renamed it due to the morons on this forum, I got tired of their crap over a 15 minute experiment.