Hydraulic clutch fitted.
- Thread starter 74 Lloydy
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comnoz said:Danno said:
100,000 on my hydraulic clutch now. All I've replaced is the fluid.
My friend's clutch master gave up the ghost 200 miles from home. We bled it twice and got there, but the master had to be rebuilt. 50,000 more or less on the clock.
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comnoz said:Danno said:
100,000 on my hydraulic clutch now. All I've replaced is the fluid.
I was an early adopter of the CNW/Comstock hydraulic clutch actuation system; I like the increased bandwidth and smoothness of modulation and the lack of what I'll call cable creep. It's not inexpensive and takes some patience to bleed. The first Commando I fitted it to was a Mk3 that I sold years ago; never heard anything from the new owner about anything...The second system, on a Combat, has been in service for about 2.5 years.
I have been thinking about changing out the fluid, I like to flush my DOT 3/4/5.1 systems every 2 years (give or take). Given that there is no bleeder valve on the hydraulic slave it would seem that you may be able to drain the fluid by loosening the pressure line at the transmission junction and replacing the fluid in the line and reservoir, but it still leaves the fluid in the slave potentially un-touched. So my question is:
Is there enough natural circulation in the system to keep the fluid relatively free of, or at low enough level of, contamination from condensate? Given the design of the system is it even subject to intrusion by condensate?
And, yes, I realize that carrying an extra cable in the headlight, or have one parallel strung, even better, can solve a broken cable MUCH easier than a blown seal in either the master or slave, but there are so many other reliability issues that can bring your Commando (or any other antique motorcycle) to its knees I carry my AMA/AAA insurance cards, credit card and cell phone with me when I venture beyond my circle-of-friends radius...
Just asking.
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I have nothing against the hydraulic clutch conversion. My ZX-14 has a hydraulic clutch and functions just fine after 65,000 miles with nothing more than fluid changes. My point is, nothing lasts forever and the simpler something is, the harder it is for a failure to strand you. I suppose you could carry a m/c rebuild kit, a pint of fluid and a small piece of fine sandpaper as well as the necessary tools (don't forget a snapring pliers!) just like you can carry a spare cable.
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Cobel said:Since fitting the hydraulic clutch its been a dream, so easy and smooth. Before even with adjustment it never liked to go in to neutral easily, now straight in every time.
Also received my oil block from steve maney and new filter housing from Andover, now just got to fit to the bike. No more valves, especially as the valve mod done by PO was of the worst quality.
Nice looking setup. I'll take one foe my new Maney oil block please
;-)
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RoadScholar said:comnoz said:Danno said:
100,000 on my hydraulic clutch now. All I've replaced is the fluid.
I was an early adopter of the CNW/Comstock hydraulic clutch actuation system; I like the increased bandwidth and smoothness of modulation and the lack of what I'll call cable creep. It's not inexpensive and takes some patience to bleed. The first Commando I fitted it to was a Mk3 that I sold years ago; never heard anything from the new owner about anything...The second system, on a Combat, has been in service for about 2.5 years.
I have been thinking about changing out the fluid, I like to flush my DOT 3/4/5.1 systems every 2 years (give or take). Given that there is no bleeder valve on the hydraulic slave it would seem that you may be able to drain the fluid by loosening the pressure line at the transmission junction and replacing the fluid in the line and reservoir, but it still leaves the fluid in the slave potentially un-touched. So my question is:
Is there enough natural circulation in the system to keep the fluid relatively free of, or at low enough level of, contamination from condensate? Given the design of the system is it even subject to intrusion by condensate?
And, yes, I realize that carrying an extra cable in the headlight, or have one parallel strung, even better, can solve a broken cable MUCH easier than a blown seal in either the master or slave, but there are so many other reliability issues that can bring your Commando (or any other antique motorcycle) to its knees I carry my AMA/AAA insurance cards, credit card and cell phone with me when I venture beyond my circle-of-friends radius...
Just asking.
I have actually never completely flushed the fluid. What I do is every spring I remove the master cylinder cap and use a paper towel to soak up all the fluid and wipe it clean. Then I just refill it with fresh fluid and put the cover back on. It seems to have done the job for the last 10 years or so. Jim
74 Lloydy
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Well I got my new Steve Maney oil block installed with some new lines I had made up. Works a treat and looks great. Well at least I think so.
Didn't see anything returning to the tank for a few seconds. Despite knowing it had to fill the new lines etc. I was still shitting bricks for a moment or two there.
Didn't see anything returning to the tank for a few seconds. Despite knowing it had to fill the new lines etc. I was still shitting bricks for a moment or two there.
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