Discussion in 'Norton Motorcycles (Modern)' started by richard-7, Sep 14, 2018.
Cool. Thanks Rob.
The manual seems to show a gasket with O rings between the throttle body and gasket, and between the head and gasket.
I checked my 2013 961, and I can't see any gasket.
Certainly nothing 1/16 of an inch thick. That would be very apparent.
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My dads red SF has this gasket. The first 10 bikes in Canada have this gasket. The rest don’t. My dads SF is the 5th bike in canada and first red bike in Canada. My dads 2013 SE was the 30-somthing-th bike in canada. So must have been a change during that time. Also, when we asked about it in 2014 Simon said it was unnecessary so we left it at that.
The gasket was obsoleted at some point before my time - presumably because it was found to not be necessary.
It was re-introduced for euro 4 because they run hotter so it is necessary to isolate some of the heat.
Just clarifying... this ball bearing you put in the hose between the IAM and the air box, I'm assuming, is large enough to block air altogether or am I totally misunderstanding. I would like to try this before going down the route of ECU upgrade
You got it. Basically anything to block the air.
this is unreal. i also see that rob has not addressed this on line but has answered some other things you posted. IMHO the factory should be happy that you guys are keeping the flag flying in canada after all you have put up with from them.
Because its crappy weather im not able to test it if the washers under the bolt heads will work. If they do work and the entire time it was a vacuum leak then I will be removing the ball. We do smoke tests on engines and have found loose bolts and a leak at this flange but high idle being so inconsistent, we never found a leak in my bike here. Could be so slight and we missed it because its only when the bike is super hot. Try placing washers under the heads of your bolts first. If that doesn’t do anything then try the ball. The ball for sure works for me but as was brought up, i have o2 eliminated so that may keep me safe. Rob said you’ll blow the engine so please only give it a try to prove the IAM is the cause.
Im convinced the IAM is the real issue here. Maybe the wrong one not designed for heat. Or maybe in thr wrong spot. Too close to heat. Or maybe the ECU is not providing it enough power hence why the ECU upgrade is recommended because it may provide more power to this IAM to move it when it starts binding from heat. When we brought this issue up to Simon years ago, he told us its our fuel thats the problem and we need to clean the IAM more often. hence why I have a manual on it. But it really didn’t make a difference. And canada has great ethanol free fuel.
So ?????? Not sure what to say. But temporarily blocking will prove if your bike can run amazing. Please convince yourself you should try it and don’t listen to me on this one. Im only sharing what I did and you’re welcome to try it too.
Im convinced the IAM is the real issue here. Maybe the wrong one not designed for heat. Or maybe in thr wrong spot. Too close to heat. Or maybe the ECU is not providing it enough power hence why the ECU upgrade is recommended because it may provide more power to this IAM to move it when it starts binding from heat.
My previous 2012 bike with SC ECU suffered from high idle - anything up to 2800rpm - the factory changed the IAM but no difference - I wrapped the IAM in exhaust bandage to protect it from the heat & that solved it
Thats great info!!!!
Thanks for sharing!!!!!
So perhaps it was a mistake that the heat insulation plate was removed and is the real reason its back. Im assuming the heat plate was Dreers idea. Because if Simon designed it he wouldn’t have removed it. If thats the fix then I hope Norton mails every owner one of these plates as a recall. I wish the weather was better here to test this out. My dads red SF that has this plate never once had high idle. So this is really interesting now.
So it could be the screws
It could be the lack of the plate
Could be both related to each other
Could be heat on IAM
My 2013 CR doesn't have the plate, and I have never had the high idle.
It is probably a good idea to have the insulator plate on just to reduce some of the heat to the throttle body in general.
If the throttle body was separated from the cylinder head sufficiently, as to prevent heat transfer, this would surely be the perfect solution...
For example... by a small supercharger unit...
No one can argue with that.
Makes perfect sense.
Goes to show how sensitive the IAM is though. I don't have the plate, mine was ever so slightly cocked that you really couldn't even see it, yet two turns of one screw cure it. Don't forget, last year my bike bounced....hard. That may have just thrown it off a bit. That little POS is connected to quite a heavy piece of equipment, attached to a too heave hose to the airbox. AND...its the second time it shook loose.
Next Project : Install 1/16 in. thick Heat insulator with built in O-rings . As you see from the drawing this goes between cylinder head and throttle body .
good photo...always worth having two types of fuel injection sorted out....!
Do you have a fast idle or fueling problem? Just wondering, if it ain't broke, why fix it?
I have idle issues also. But mostly I am doing this because it is a good idea to isolate the throttle body from excessive heat.
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