How long does it take to clear a wet sump

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hobot said:
A few years ago on 1st Trixie start up after another rebuild from something not my fault, I oiled crank till oil fell out the open sump plug and liberally oiled rockers, closed up and kicked off to wait over 30 sec to see foamy grey oil being returned to tank via pump and Combat breather. A couple years ago when carb boots let grit into Trixies rings for blowby smoke and leaks everywhere, after new rings she would start on wet sump and not smoke any till 15-20 sec later as oil pressure hit head and leaked past head gasket gaps then would clear up as heat seemed to expand to seal better, until I gave Combat much throttle or over 70 mph. Seems to me unless wet sumped and pre oiling head we have 15-30sec w/o much or any oil pressure on initial start up. Not a bad idea to leave crank near TDC to retain some oil in big ends to cover this interval of nil oil pressure.

So can seasoned reasoned experts fill me in - or correct my acquired habit of starting and reving straight over 2000 to clear sump and hopfuly surf on lingering oil film till pressure hits. ??

There is no problem starting a wet sumped engine -other than it is tough to kick through and the plugs get doused in oil from flooded cylinder walls.

There is plenty of oil in the crank to supply the big ends long enough for oil to return to the tank and cover the pickup screen.

It will not matter what position the crank is in. If the throws are down then they will be submerged -so oil will not drain out of the crank. Jim
 
If no one had ever drained the crankcase after a long layoff, who would ever know the difference? The tests prove without a doubt that there is no problem and all the hand-wringing and half-assed cures, like anti-drain valves and inlet pipe shutoffs are a waste of time, money and concern.
 
Ok appreciate the comforting start up oiling review on crank position comnoz, but my plugs do not get oil fouled no matter how much wet sump - unless bad gasket or rings from something other than just wet sump which reveals it not causes it. I am surprised pleased for last few years ignoring wet sump with over rev cold start ups and not seeing anything to wipe off magnet while prior could bind fuzz to matter after a single slow normal cautious kind gentle baby burping daddy protocol - as was my practice prior decade on Peel and at first Trixie too. If brave or stupid as hobot, try it and see for yourselves which path is longer lasting. I can not run Trixie like I abused Peel but sure have pressed her to keep up with sports squads not really racing but definitely doing go to jail lose cycle speeds if caught for 100 mile long legs at a time. Then semi lugging in 4th gear for miles at barely charging rpms around 2000-ish. Better polished lifters than you sent back and undetectable cam use surfaces, looks better than new. Cam now cryo tempered and thinking to delay some more to send lifters out too while easy access and might as well send cam chain and new piston rings too for the long haul.
 
hobot said:
Ok appreciate the comforting start up oiling review on crank position comnoz, but my plugs do not get oil fouled no matter how much wet sump - unless bad gasket or rings from something other than just wet sump which reveals it not causes it. I am surprised pleased for last few years ignoring wet sump with over rev cold start ups and not seeing anything to wipe off magnet while prior could bind fuzz to matter after a single slow normal cautious kind gentle baby burping daddy protocol - as was my practice prior decade on Peel and at first Trixie too. If brave or stupid as hobot, try it and see for yourselves which path is longer lasting. I can not run Trixie like I abused Peel but sure have pressed her to keep up with sports squads not really racing but definitely doing go to jail lose cycle speeds if caught for 100 mile long legs at a time. Then semi lugging in 4th gear for miles at barely charging rpms around 2000-ish. Better polished lifters than you sent back and undetectable cam use surfaces, looks better than new. Cam now cryo tempered and thinking to delay some more to send lifters out too while easy access and might as well send cam chain and new piston rings too for the long haul.


I start my bike and bring it to 2000 right away for a few seconds, then I let it back to around 1500 and wait for oil pressure.

Polished lifters are slower to mate to the cam. A little courser surface avoids scuffing better on initial start up. Jim
 
Polished lifters are slower to mate to the cam. A little courser surface avoids scuffing better on initial start up. Jim

Thats what surprised me on my piss-ant attitude to rev right up and hold it 2-3000 to tempt Trixie to break one more time then done with her KAPOW TO THE MOON, but instead it burnished off the slight ginding wheel texture you left on them and refined the cam too which had some rough ness from prior pieces of several engine siezures & just hand filed the proud parts expecting to pay for it later but so far most spread out even wear and nil magnet fuzz yet. Will take your advice to leave crank near BDC to fill with wet sump rather than TDC to resist it so mereish kicker motion will sling on cam, thanx.
 
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