Horrible noise from gearbox(?)

Fast Eddie said:
I’ve used the ‘make the bastard break’ strategy before when I’ve run out of ideas !

But I wouldn’t do it with a (potential) gearbox issue. If a gearbox locks up, you’re f*cked, you can’t even pull the clutch in to save yourself.
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The thought has actually crossed my mind, I mean what do you do when you can´t find anything wrong/broken but still there is something wrong?!?
 
Schwany said:
Might need to understand just how horrible the whine is. My Norton sounds like something I should never ride, but I've been riding it for decades, and it hasn't killed me yet.
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I´d like to film it somehow, haven´t figured out how yet.
 
fiatfan said:
I only drove the bike a short run, not on yhe road, just to test if it worked. Don´t remember any noise. Since then I have just changed all 3 bearings and all bushings, bought a used shell in very good condition because in the old one the bearings in the drive side had been spinning.
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You know there are fixes for spinning bearings in cases, Locktite has a good product for that reason.
 
I assume no noise while running in neutral ? Also spinning the back wheel in neutral ? Isolates gearbox. I had a Honda which sounded horrendous. It was the chain ! However it does sound like the box. Roy.
 
ashman said:
You know there are fixes for spinning bearings in cases, Locktite has a good product for that reason.
Click to expand...
I'll spout off;
Better yet setup the case in the Bridgeport then bore out enough to allow a thin aluminum sleeve shrink fit installed. Tig welded sleeve edge to case folowed by Tig welding the sleeve edge to case then boring to an interference bearing fit to case. The sleeve is not going anywhere now how I had rescued a tranny case bearing bore repair.
This was how they repaired bearing bores in the Allison Turboprop gear reduction drive cases for accessories as well the gear reduction drive for the props as used on C130's. Same rescued process with now considered rare Pratt & Whitney R2800 radial engine cases when rebuilding radials.

Same concept with the Norton tranny cradle with the swingarm shaft bore that's worn away then hammered out of round by kept riding Nortons making for a hinged in the middle handling bike. I'm not into welding two nuts then installing bolts pressing the shaft forward or those split collars another red flag seen patch job repair vs sleeved then reamed to a tight thumb pressed fit shaft to bore a solid repair as if factory new again. By this I bet a tighter fit than factory production clearances where zero clearance is best and solid avoiding future clearances from starting the hammering process over again.

Knurled piston skirts to remove cold start pistion slap that will not last very long vs replacement, the job done properly lasting several decades of service.

Preloaded tapered roller bearings the best swingarm bearings idea used on BMW's, R75/5, R90/6 & R90s bikes as example in my collection. Toss in one 750 plus three 850 Nortons, RHS only like on the 500 & 600 Matchless thumpers. Yes a PITA mentally retrained to reflex shift and brake when riding the Beemers like tapping the rear brake making a perfect and clean downshift as a example and surprise to me, oops......~~=o&o>.......
 
ThumperHead said:
I'll spout off;
Better yet setup the case in the Bridgeport then bore out enough to allow a thin aluminum sleeve shrink fit installed. Tig welded sleeve edge to case folowed by Tig welding the sleeve edge to case then boring to an interference bearing fit to case. The sleeve is not going anywhere now how I had rescued a tranny case bearing bore repair.
This was how they repaired bearing bores in the Allison Turboprop gear reduction drive cases for accessories as well the gear reduction drive for the props as used on C130's. Same rescued process with now considered rare Pratt & Whitney R2800 radial engine cases when rebuilding radials.

Same concept with the Norton tranny cradle with the swingarm shaft bore that's worn away then hammered out of round by kept riding Nortons making for a hinged in the middle handling bike. I'm not into welding two nuts then installing bolts pressing the shaft forward or those split collars another red flag seen patch job repair vs sleeved then reamed to a tight thumb pressed fit shaft to bore a solid repair as if factory new again. By this I bet a tighter fit than factory production clearances where zero clearance is best and solid avoiding future clearances from starting the hammering process over again.

Knurled piston skirts to remove cold start pistion slap that will not last very long vs replacement, the job done properly lasting several decades of service.

Preloaded tapered roller bearings the best swingarm bearings idea used on BMW's, R75/5, R90/6 & R90s bikes as example in my collection. Toss in one 750 plus three 850 Nortons, RHS only like on the 500 & 600 Matchless thumpers. Yes a PITA mentally retrained to reflex shift and brake when riding the Beemers like tapping the rear brake making a perfect and clean downshift as a example and surprise to me, oops......~~=o&o>.......
Click to expand...
What do you think about SKF Speedi sleeve ?
 
marinatlas said:
What do you think about SKF Speedi sleeve ?
Click to expand...
With the bores of the 2 bearings so close together Speedi sleeves would not work as they would interfere at the intersection so the speedi sleeve would have to be cut at that point. The aluminium sleeves works as they are welded to the case, so then once you machine the bores back to size the aluminium sleeves still have a fixed connection to the case. Speedi sleeves have their uses, just not where the 2 bores edges are so close as on the Norton Gearbox.
 
kommando said:
With the bores of the 2 bearings so close together Speedi sleeves would not work as they would interfere at the intersection so the speedi sleeve would have to be cut at that point. The aluminium sleeves works as they are welded to the case, so then once you machine the bores back to size the aluminium sleeves still have a fixed connection to the case. Speedi sleeves have their uses, just not where the 2 bores edges are so close as on the Norton Gearbox.
Click to expand...
If bearings have lost their interference fit, a much larger oval insert is needed, covering both bearings, which will require more welding and subsequent machining. It's probably cheaper and definately less hassle to buy a new gearbox shell. If bearings are installed according to the recommended procedure, the interference problem shouldn't occur.

I think the entire bearing issue (short life span) is avoided by providing a better mainshaft support. This is a task I am working on.

- Knut
 
mdt-son said:
I think the entire bearing issue (short life span) is avoided by providing a better mainshaft support. This is a task I am working on.
Click to expand...
Steve Maney's outrigger was the best available solution, but now long out of production.
 
B+Bogus said:
Steve Maney's outrigger was the best available solution, but now long out of production.
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The problem with the Maney outrigger is it's great for racing but not for longevity as you rack the miles up it cracks
Mine has broken 3 times so I've given up with it
Commoz was the one that pointed this out
 
baz said:
The problem with the Maney outrigger is it's great for racing but not for longevity as you rack the miles up it cracks
Click to expand...
Exactly. As demonstrated by TTi, by keeping the drive line layout, the only viable solution is to beef up countershaft and mainshaft.
A much better solution is to separate in- and outgoing shafts, as seen on the HD Sportster transmission and it's derivate, the Norton 961.

- Knut
 
baz said:
The problem with the Maney outrigger is it's great for racing but not for longevity as you rack the miles up it cracks
Mine has broken 3 times so I've given up with it
Commoz was the one that pointed this out
Click to expand...
Making one out of steel or stainless steel would be good for road bike. But I doubt there’s a market to make it commercially viable.
 
Fast Eddie said:
Making one out of steel or stainless steel would be good for road bike. But I 🧐 there’s a market to make it commercially viable.
Click to expand...
I've been considering making one in steel but too much in the air at the moment
Plus the extra weight etc
And I'll be fitting a pre unit triumph 5 speed at some point
 

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