Here's the 71 I acquired ( in progress ! )

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upon further inspection, it's my steel rims that ar showing specs of rust, not the SS spokes/nipples

.......back to your regularly scheduled post...... sorry for the hijack of the thread.

kfh
 
I finally got the primary drive off. Clutch discs were oil soaked. Noticed Some up and down play when I waggled the tranny sproket shaft. Must be some worn out bushings /bearings...what ever is in there. Not sure how all that oil got in there. Now that the jug is off I can wiggle aroung on the rings and rods. Seems nice and snug. Still see cross hatch on the cyls and no lip. Those rings couldn't have been in there for very long. Gotta do some straightning up before I go any further. Nowhere to walk within a 10ft circle around the bike. I'm as organized as a 5yr old's birthday party. My cat seems to be a biker. He is always right there watching the progress. Once he sat on the back fender for 30 min while I was jerking and banging around. None of that tender sh-t for me. I'm like a bulldog with a ragdoll when I get going. Can't help it! Having fun! :D
 
Jeandr said:
Well, I have a brass nipple which is chrome plated... and I had (threw them away) some steel nipples which were chrome plated (rusted, which is why I threw them away) and the nipples I have on my café racer build are not magnetic, so they are either stainless steel or brass and these came from Bucchanan's. Seems nipples can be made with a number of materials and I replied from memory which showed me a shiny yellow cast when I ground them flush on my old British bikes. I think Bucchanan's sends SS nipples on SS orders and cheap steel ones if you don't specicfy anything else.

Jean

Here's the 71 I acquired ( in progress ! )
Click to expand...
Are the slots so youy can get them mostly done with a screwdriver before using the spoke wrench?
 
seaguy said:
Are the slots so youy can get them mostly done with a screwdriver before using the spoke wrench?
Click to expand...

Guess so, I made a special "spoke" bit from an old philips bit to get all the spokes to the same point with a drill, then I used a spoke wrench to finish the job.

Jean
 
Yes, the slots are for screwing the nipples onto the spokes, before reverting to the spoke wrench.

Once the wheel is trued, any spokes poking through the end of the nipples need to be ground down, so as not to poke a hole through the rim strip and into the tube.

On my rear wheel, all the spokes were exactly the right length - no grinding needed. On the front, over 1/2 the spokes needed a going-over with the grinder.
 
The gearbox had 4 0z of water in it. Got my fingers crossed.
Here's the 71 I acquired ( in progress ! )
Clutch pack was full of oil
Here's the 71 I acquired ( in progress ! )
Case was clean inside
Here's the 71 I acquired ( in progress ! )
Still see cyl cross hatch
Here's the 71 I acquired ( in progress ! )
Head sure looked beat up
Here's the 71 I acquired ( in progress ! )
This stand can't be original...works ok
Here's the 71 I acquired ( in progress ! )
 
hi seaguy, looking at the pics, i would change the pistons they look like the ones i heard horror stories about, the tops have been known to come off because of the saw cut through the oil ring groove
 
Ahhh.....thanks Chris..more good news. I read about those but forfot about them. They are 20 over. Was looking at what Old Brits had but don't understand their chart. Numbers start like 35 and go up. I thought pistons went over by tens got to figure that out.
 
Thanks Swooshdave,Hadn't seen that writeup. I took the swaddling cloth off of the rods for the pics.
swooshdave said:
Don't let those con rods get dinged up.

See if this article from Old Britts helps your sidestand issue.

71 Sidestand Fix

Here's the 71 I acquired ( in progress ! )
Click to expand...
 
seaguy said:
Ahhh.....thanks Chris..more good news. I read about those but forfot about them. They are 20 over. Was looking at what Old Brits had but don't understand their chart. Numbers start like 35 and go up. I thought pistons went over by tens got to figure that out.
Click to expand...
hi seaguy,back in the day i think you could get pistons in 10 thou oversize(ie plus 10 plus 20 plus 30 etc) but i think nowadays they go up in 20s ,
 
seaguy said:
I read about those but forfot about them. They are 20 over. Was looking at what Old Brits had but don't understand their chart. Numbers start like 35 and go up. I thought pistons went over by tens got to figure that out.
Click to expand...


Their list seems to show pistons as ether standard size and the normal +.020, +.040, and +.060 oversizes.
http://www.oldbritts.com/ob_1110.htm
 
Started trying to take the swing axle apart today. Got the skinny bolt out and the caps off but that was the end of it. I tried driving out the center pipe and that thing won't budge. I remember hoping up and down on it to see if the shocks worked and the only thing that moved was my vertibrae discs colapsing. I thought the shocks were frozen but it was actually the swing arm. My repair manual has such a crappy pic of it that I need to look at an explodded view in the parts pages . Havent checked yet. Might as well wite don't all the PN's when I look since I will probably need it all. Maybe the axle is still good...rite. :evil: I have made good progress though. I try to do at least one thing a day to it. Been putting phospho on everything ferrus and zinc chromate on the AL that will be painted. I bought a few cans of " Bead Blast " paint from Eastwood. I will do a show an tell on it after use. Better be good at 15.00 a can. Main frame is done except for a few spots I need to weld. Haven't made up my mind on powdercoating it yet. Chrome and powdercoat will run about 500.00 or more. I might need to set up a Lemonade stand before this is over :roll:
 
when I dismantled mine, I forgot about the bolt in the center of the swingarm......almost did damage until I found it and then it was still a bit of a fight to get it out. something about sitting beside a barn in the elements for 25+years...... did you remove that bolt? not easily seen

kfh
 
If you're talking about the little 1/4 26 looking one in the middle that screws into the shaft tube I got it out. I think this one is stuck in the bushings from the picture I saw posted earlier here. Hard to get pennetrant in there due to the seals. May have to tear em up some with an Oring pick.
 
that's the one..... I almost mangled that shaft until I went back and read the manual......

what about some sort of jury-rigged gear puller?

kfh
 
Try taking a 1/2 inch drive socket with a diameter the same size as the swing arm, slide a 1/2-20 bolt with a nut threaded on and a heavy washer into the socket and thread into the inside threads of the spindle. Hold the bolt with one wrench and turn the nut down to pull the spindle into the socket.

Once the spindle is extracted into the socket, you may need a deeper socket or tube.
 
Ron L said:
Try taking a 1/2 inch drive socket with a diameter the same size as the swing arm, slide a 1/2-20 bolt with a nut threaded on and a heavy washer into the socket and thread into the inside threads of the spindle. Hold the bolt with one wrench and turn the nut down to pull the spindle into the socket.

Once the spindle is extracted into the socket, you may need a deeper socket or tube.
Click to expand...
Thanks Ron, good idea. I will try a bolt down in there to see if it has threads further in. If so this method will be much easier than fooling with a 200 ton press! It's a little tricky being gentle with that big boy.
 
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