Help me I'm blind-head bolts

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Onder said:
The alloy used in the FA head is actually rather soft. Look at the area beneath the head bolt washers and how it sinks and compacts.
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Yes - hence the need for inserts to compensate for the three studs.
It will also make it very important to ensure the five x 3/8" bolts, that clamp aluminium, are waisted to 5/16" to reduce the temperature induced crushing effect on the head.
 
I see that CNW offers a head fastener kit that has waisted bolts. Why are these so and the three studs not?
 
Rob SS
All he said to do was to torque down your exhaust pipe nuts as you rev the engine. It is rather amazing how it does allow
for more movement of the nuts.
 
Onder said:
I see that CNW offers a head fastener kit that has waisted bolts. Why are these so and the three studs not?
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I thought JC and JSM both did wasted studs (but different methods / UNC)

Jim (C) offered to post me the Helicoil tap, legend.
 
JC offers waisted studs, the three in the head, as well as all the others.
It looks like CNW doesn't waist the head studs, or at least from their pix.
 
I thought JC was suppling CNW (or was ) (I had thought about wasting the ones I made (750 head bolts) but flagged it)
 
My error , which I just corrected. It is Jim Schmidt at JS Engineering who offers the triangular relieved bolts and studs. CNW uses ARP bolts that look simply thinned down. Looking again at the pix, the studs from CNW may well be reduced shank as well hard to see as they are black oxide.
 
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I take it that I should put a little copper sealant around the push rod holes. You know the high temp silicone.
 
Marcb said:
I take it that I should put a little copper sealant around the push rod holes. You know the high temp silicone.
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The guidance I received here from a few folks was the composite flame ring gasket does not require any sealant and infact it should not get any as the material itself may have some kind of sealing product already embedded? My previous which blew out was copper. Uncertain how long it was on bike for.
 
Tornado said:
The guidance I received here from a few folks was the composite flame ring gasket does not require any sealant and infact it should not get any as the material itself may have some kind of sealing product already embedded? My previous which blew out was copper. Uncertain how long it was on bike for.
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As far as I know 125,000 miles
 
Onder said:
I see that CNW offers a head fastener kit that has waisted bolts. Why are these so and the three studs not?
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The three head studs definitely should be waisted but if you just reduce the diameter then the head may not locate correctly because it could be loose on studs with reduced shank diameters. Thats why I went to triangular studs - they have a reduced shank so they will stretch like a con rod bolt and they will still locate/center on the original OD of the outside triangular areas of the bolt. The conical spring washers also help keep tension.

for cast iron cylinders
Help me I'm blind-head bolts


for Maney style alum cylinders
Help me I'm blind-head bolts
 
I've got the JC waisted bolts. Copper gasket.
Leak free.
Needed/accepted NO retorquing when checked. 10,000 miles in.
WINNING!!!!:cool:
 
Hey it's me again. I got tied up redoing my pump house which took a week. Got my new head bolts from RGM and have a simple question. The nuts on the bottom #2,#9#10 all had washers on them but according to the shop manual should not have washers on them. What's your opinions? I have plenty of washers.
Thanks, Marc
 
I asked this same question a little while ago. See this thread:

accessnorton.com

Cylinder Head Nuts....No Washers?

As per the Workshop manual there are not supposed to be washers used on the cylinder underside nuts & sleeve nuts. Washers are used on the top side two 5/16" nuts and on the five 3/8" bolts. Is this purely because the underside nuts are in contact with the iron block rather than soft Alu? Any...
accessnorton.com accessnorton.com

Putting washers on the three studs protruding down into block is less necessary because the sleeve nuts or single nut bottoms against the steel block, less likely to chew up anything. There is also length of exposed stud thread the nut has to be able to grab.
 
Marcb said:
Hey it's me again. I got tied up redoing my pump house which took a week. Got my new head bolts from RGM and have a simple question. The nuts on the bottom #2,#9#10 all had washers on them but according to the shop manual should not have washers on them. What's your opinions? I have plenty of washers.
Thanks, Marc
Click to expand...
See reply #54, last sentence , should answer your question .
 
I hate to bug you guys after all the help you have given me so far. I got the head off, everything looks good. Went to put it back on and have had nothing but trouble. My neighbor helped me so I had two sets of hands. I followed the book to the letter and can't get the darn head installed. What is the trick? Also I'm confused about the push rods. Do the ball ends of the push rods go in the rockers or into the engine?
Thanks,
Marc
 
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