Heart Transplant

swooshdave · Dec 24, 2018

Here are the other cases I have handy. They are also early 72 cases. These were picked up at a swap meet for a modest price and had been slated to be donor cases to fix the ones that have a hole in them. Yes, I would feel guilty about cutting up such nice cases but sacrafices will need to be made unless someone has a drive side case that is no longer serviceable.

These have been modified, the front pickup hole blocked and some metal removed at the back. What I can't figure out is where the oil drains back to. I obviously need to study the oil flow better.

Fast Eddie · Dec 24, 2018

I think the idea there is that the oil drains into the little trough via the gap where the metal has been removed. From there it’s picked up buy the scavenge oil way in the timing side case.

I’ve no experience with these engines though and equally no idea how that’s likely to work out.

Deets55 · Dec 24, 2018

Dave,
That looks like the Old Britts mod. I checked their web site real quick but did not find the article. It still might be there. You could probably incorporate Dyno Dave small drain holes to get the oil to the pump. I know it doesn’t answer your question but it might be a starting point.
Pete

CanukNortonNut · Dec 24, 2018

"I'm not really tempted to pull the conrods off. They feel way too good to mess with."
https://www.accessnorton.com/Norton...-to-check-your-sludge-trap.17637/#post-260903

https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/why-you-should-clean-your-sludge-trap.17799/

I too have an engine that I got with no history and the pictures show unseen issues. (pre oil filter era) Without first hand knowledge you are going by the 50/50 rule... could I get away with it or could I not. An old school teachers thoughts on 50/50 was, its more like 50/50/80 when you are faced with the rule it 80% chances you get it wrong. PM 3 or 4 forum members that you would really trust in building engines and tell them your scenario (bought it from a friend out of a bunch of parts in the back of a pickup) ask them if they would go your route and not "mess with". then drive it all the way to the Nationals and back as an interim engine while you get your other engine rebuilt. false economy is my thoughts on the matter but get it from them first.

Merry Christmas
Thomas

CanukNortonNut · Dec 24, 2018

Deets55 said:
Dave,
That looks like the Old Britts mod. I checked their web site real quick but did not find the article. It still might be there. You could probably incorporate Dyno Dave small drain holes to get the oil to the pump. I know it doesn’t answer your question but it might be a starting point.
Pete

Yup. That fixes the oil suction area for high sustained revs, but it doesn't protect the oil pump from sucking up big chunks of debris. Dynodaves solution makes sense to me where he uses small drill holes on the drive side only, to act as a crude filter screen. I am surprised that someone hasn't come up with a filter mod for the 200000 series engines.
Cheers,
Thomas

74ok · Dec 24, 2018

Deets55 said:
Dave,
That looks like the Old Britts mod. I checked their web site real quick but did not find the article. It still might be there. You could probably incorporate Dyno Dave small drain holes to get the oil to the pump. I know it doesn’t answer your question but it might be a starting point.
Pete

https://www.oldbritts.com/n_c_case.html

https://www.oldbritts.com/image/c_case1a.jpg

https://www.oldbritts.com/image/c_case1b.jpg

swooshdave · Dec 24, 2018

CanukNortonNut said:
Yup. That fixes the oil suction area for high sustained revs, but it doesn't protect the oil pump from sucking up big chunks of debris. Dynodaves solution makes sense to me where he uses small drill holes on the drive side only, to act as a crude filter screen. I am surprised that someone hasn't come up with a filter mod for the 200000 series engines.
Cheers,
Thomas

The only thing the screen is going to help is possibly the oil pump, right? Once you're staring at a destroyed engine the oil pump just becomes one more part to replace.

swooshdave · Dec 24, 2018

84ok said:
https://www.oldbritts.com/n_c_case.html

I still don't get what removing the flange does. The other side of the case is open.

swooshdave · Dec 24, 2018

CanukNortonNut said:
"I'm not really tempted to pull the conrods off. They feel way too good to mess with."
https://www.accessnorton.com/Norton...-to-check-your-sludge-trap.17637/#post-260903

https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/why-you-should-clean-your-sludge-trap.17799/

I too have an engine that I got with no history and the pictures show unseen issues. (pre oil filter era) Without first hand knowledge you are going by the 50/50 rule... could I get away with it or could I not. An old school teachers thoughts on 50/50 was, its more like 50/50/80 when you are faced with the rule it 80% chances you get it wrong. PM 3 or 4 forum members that you would really trust in building engines and tell them your scenario (bought it from a friend out of a bunch of parts in the back of a pickup) ask them if they would go your route and not "mess with". then drive it all the way to the Nationals and back as an interim engine while you get your other engine rebuilt. false economy is my thoughts on the matter but get it from them first.

Merry Christmas
Thomas

Trust me I'm not saying you are wrong but for an engine that might get a thousand miles or so in the next couple years I'm willing to take the chance. Given there is a chance my friend might want the engine back at some point I don't really want to over-invest when I have the other engine that will require a lot more money.

An oil pressure gauge isn't out of the question...

74ok · Dec 24, 2018

swooshdave said:
I still don't get what removing the flange does. The other side of the case is open.

looks like it would provide 'pressure relief' by opening up the area allowing easier flow..

bwthdik

CanukNortonNut · Dec 24, 2018

swooshdave said:
The only thing the screen is going to help is possibly the oil pump, right? Once you're staring at a destroyed engine the oil pump just becomes one more part to replace.

Yes. The large filter was eliminated from the 200000 series engines. When Norton realized their mistake they put that sump filter plug back in.
Once its destroyed well then that's too late and its a sorry tragedy with just some other forum lurker smugly smirking while sipping on his coffee thinking to himself " It could have been worse... could have been mine.
T

CanukNortonNut · Dec 24, 2018

swooshdave said:
Trust me I'm not saying you are wrong but for an engine that might get a thousand miles or so in the next couple years I'm willing to take the chance. Given there is a chance my friend might want the engine back at some point I don't really want to over-invest when I have the other engine that will require a lot more money.

An oil pressure gauge isn't out of the question...

Your quote: "I went over to his place (he lives on the Oregon coast, which was beautiful today!) and handed him a small sum of money for the engine. The agreement is that once I get the original engine fixed he has first rights at buying this one back (plus whatever I have into it). Fair enough!"

You did say he has first dibs on the engine and what ever you put into it? Why don't you then follow through and do it right. All the more that he would want it back.
Cheers,
Thomas

CanukNortonNut · Dec 24, 2018

swooshdave said:
I still don't get what removing the flange does. The other side of the case is open.

Removing the flange exposes the hole from the timing side. Again not a good option. DD's is better IMHO.

74ok · Dec 24, 2018

looks like maybe a crack on the right side passage hole middle area?

swooshdave · Dec 24, 2018

84ok said:
looks like maybe a crack on the right side passage hole middle area?

Casting line, just what most cracks look like.

swooshdave · Dec 24, 2018

CanukNortonNut said:
You did say he has first dibs on the engine and what ever you put into it? Why don't you then follow through and do it right. All the more that he would want it back.
Cheers,
Thomas

For the same reason I've outlined several times already... limited resources.

CanukNortonNut · Dec 24, 2018

swooshdave said:
For the same reason I've outlined several times already... limited resources.

I understand. With that, I would recommend that you don't try to get the interim engine running. You can scavenge it for parts and just rebuild your blown motor as funds materialize.
Regards,
Thomas

swooshdave · Dec 27, 2018

Superblends on their way.

Hope to taking the engine cases out for cleaning this week.

swooshdave · Dec 28, 2018

I know I'm going to get yelled at but can I reused the conrod bolts? At least I'm going to split the crankshaft...

Since the con-rods have never been off I assume I can get away with the standard bearings? I assume this because it's a Combat and is never got the Superblends...

Cases are out for cleaning.

What else am I forgetting for the bottom end?

CanukNortonNut · Dec 28, 2018

Check the shells before order. Don't assume its standard. Be 100% sure and take it apart and measure(they are marked) and look at the journal and measure. By the way why 2 sets? NM23255 A quantity of 1 will get you what you need for one engine.

Heart Transplant

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