Header Pipe Not Secure

I think some of the clever setups using springs to secure header to exhaust ports, to eliminate the need to use threaded roses and all the issues those give us, would also reduce/eliminate the header pipe cracks, no?

When I helped a guy swap out his catalytic converted cross over pipe on a water cooled bonneville a couple of yrs ago, the headers were clamped to the exhaust ports but had a flexible glass/asbestos? fibre "gasket" btwn pipe and cylinder. Should provide some movement, reduce fatigue cracks.
 
Assembly : On wheels , not center stand .
Hand tighten rosebuds .
Then muffler clamp .
Then muffler mounts ( no strain on the rubbers and not crooked ) .
Then tool to tighten up rosebuds .
Run engine to hot .
Tool tighten .
Drive it .
Tool tighten with force again .
 
Hi Baz, do you know if the stsinless header flange part of yours was just tig welded on the end i:e the bit that seals against the head , and or if it was welded like the one shown , this is were its nice to back purge with argon which will remove the sugaring and improve the strength, Cheers.
It's just the very end of the pipe that's welded on
Like a thin washer
My mate had these pipes made in 1970
 
I think some of the clever setups using springs to secure header to exhaust ports, to eliminate the need to use threaded roses and all the issues those give us, would also reduce/eliminate the header pipe cracks, no?

When I helped a guy swap out his catalytic converted cross over pipe on a water cooled bonneville a couple of yrs ago, the headers were clamped to the exhaust ports but had a flexible glass/asbestos? fibre "gasket" btwn pipe and cylinder. Should provide some movement, reduce fatigue cracks.
One thing I have done for many years now is to dispense with the silencer clamps
 
One thing I have done for many years now is to dispense with the silencer clamps
I'm willing to try this idea of removing the clamps .
Do you run the fit dry , or perhaps high temp silicone to effect a seal ? Or absorb any vibration wear ?
 
I'm willing to try this idea of removing the clamps .
Do you run the fit dry , or perhaps high temp silicone to effect a seal ? Or absorb any vibration wear ?
No I don't have any wear issues or exhaust leaks etc
The silencers are stainless and the downpipes are chrome balanced type
The silencers were a very tight fit when they were new
 
Update: managed to convince a seller in Toronto to ship me his never installed aftermarket left side pipe and got it today. Bears "Toga" stamping. Nice chrome and weld, no visible waviness etc. $30 plus $45 postage, still less than 1/4th cost of new AN pipe pair from my regional supplier at $230 for pair before tax and shipping)
Fit up nicely, giving more clearance at lower rear edge of outer primary. Previous pipe likely from a 750 and bent differently in that area, quite close to case.
New crush installed no movement when rose done up. Waiting dry weather to test ride.
 
Also, while waiting for the delivery, got word back from a recommended welder, says he can do repair on previous pipe for $40. May run it out to him to have a back up if needed.
 
While checking over carbs to fix a sooty left side sparkplug, discovered left side header not hold tight at rose nut to head. These are pre-balance pipe headers with a flange and I've fitted the longer type rose nuts. Head has a alu-bronze thread sleeve that is in place and very solid. No matter how tight I make the rose, the header still rocks side to side. Tried either steel or copper exhaust crush seals, no difference. There is enough movement to permit the header to rattle against the side stand nut or tang at certain lower rpm.

Any ideas what to check? Thinking to try wrapping copper wire around pipe flange to help nut compress more evenly...
Try it with two steel crush washers.
 
What Greg says, crush washers work.
Snugged up, not overtightened on a hot engine. Has not moved since.

Header Pipe Not Secure
 
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