Harbor Freight Lift setup

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concours said:
No, that cross bar is designed for free standing usage of the chock on the floor, rubber feet on the bottom, and to tie the bike to the ends. Bolted to the table with four M8 socket head flat heads countersunk is much stronger than the orig design. Plus, lopping off 12" from the back allowed more room for the bike to be jacked up under the engine, tools slid across, etc. Bolted the second one on my small flatbed trailer in the same fashion.
Click to expand...

Right, but if you look at my picture it make a lovely foreword tiedown point. Since you mounted your chock so far forward you could bolt it to the front on the bench.
 
If you want to use the center stand on the bike, you could cut two half moon shaped pieces of 3/4" ply, bolt them to the front clamp, and that should give you enough pressure over a wide enough area of the front tire to hold the bike.
 
Thanks for all of the replies. Plan is to mount my wheel dock, but it will be easily removable to put the clamp back on if desired. I also ordered a scissors jack off ebay. Seemed the easiest way to raise the rear wheel either to put the center stand down or remove the rear wheel. Here's what I ordered.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171245455654?ss ... 1497.l2649
 
htown16 said:
Thanks for all of the replies. Plan is to mount my wheel dock, but it will be easily removable to put the clamp back on if desired. I also ordered a scissors jack off ebay. Seemed the easiest way to raise the rear wheel either to put the center stand down or remove the rear wheel. Here's what I ordered.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171245455654?ss ... 1497.l2649
Click to expand...

How are you going to use that on your norton? It doesn't appear to have the add on pieces to clamp under the frame. With out them you will just end up hitting your pipes.
 
I have the same HF lift. I added the same black HF adjustable wheel chock as seem above, plus replaced the small iron castering wheels with slightly larger (4 inch) ones from Tractor Supply, $9.95 each and 4 inch TS wheels in the back. Moves very smoothly now.

Chuck
 
swooshdave said:
concours said:
No, that cross bar is designed for free standing usage of the chock on the floor, rubber feet on the bottom, and to tie the bike to the ends. Bolted to the table with four M8 socket head flat heads countersunk is much stronger than the orig design. Plus, lopping off 12" from the back allowed more room for the bike to be jacked up under the engine, tools slid across, etc. Bolted the second one on my small flatbed trailer in the same fashion.
Click to expand...

Right, but if you look at my picture it make a lovely foreword tiedown point. Since you mounted your chock so far forward you could bolt it to the front on the bench.
Click to expand...

The u-bolts supplied with the lift line up well with the handlebars for tie down straps, (fourth image) and I added a second set of u-bolts back near the rear frame loop area. I never felt the need to pull forward with straps in this (static) application. I see your viewpoint of a wider tie down, but it's not a draw for me. The entire lift/bike can topple if side loaded too much. Just decades of rigging, comes pretty quick. Haven't dropped one yet. :mrgreen:
 
htown16 said:
Thanks for all of the replies. Plan is to mount my wheel dock, but it will be easily removable to put the clamp back on if desired. I also ordered a scissors jack off ebay. Seemed the easiest way to raise the rear wheel either to put the center stand down or remove the rear wheel. Here's what I ordered.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171245455654?ss ... 1497.l2649
Click to expand...


Can't you just run a strap from the overhead down to the back of the bike, say the tube by the oil tank. Attach, then lower the lift, flip the centerstand, and raise it again. I have a fixed table that swings out of the way and a overhead hoist. Works fine for me.
 
Saber13 said:
I have the same HF lift. I added the same black HF adjustable wheel chock as seem above, plus replaced the small iron castering wheels with slightly larger (4 inch) ones from Tractor Supply, $9.95 each and 4 inch TS wheels in the back. Moves very smoothly now.

Chuck
Click to expand...
Great idea, mine rolls OK but my concrete floor is not good. Did you get steel wheels?
 
Diablouph said:
htown16 said:
Thanks for all of the replies. Plan is to mount my wheel dock, but it will be easily removable to put the clamp back on if desired. I also ordered a scissors jack off ebay. Seemed the easiest way to raise the rear wheel either to put the center stand down or remove the rear wheel. Here's what I ordered.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171245455654?ss ... 1497.l2649
Click to expand...


Can't you just run a strap from the overhead down to the back of the bike, say the tube by the oil tank. Attach, then lower the lift, flip the centerstand, and raise it again. I have a fixed table that swings out of the way and a overhead hoist. Works fine for me.
Click to expand...
+1 I use Ancra ratchet strap from the joist above for easy levitation, but figured many don't have this option with finished ceiling garages.
 
Openroad
I got the steel wheels. Had to do a little drill to get the casters to mount, but worth the effort. I have a smooth painted concert floor, but have some physical limitations that make smooth rolling really helpful.

Chuck
 
Got the lift and have been using it. Wonder why I waited so long. It makes anything on the lower portion of the bike so much more accessible. Haven't even used the full height yet. I installed a homemade wheel dock I had. My wife actually won it at the BMOA New Ulm rally last year. Very well made, someone put a fair bit of work into it.
Harbor Freight Lift setup

Someone questioned whether the scissor jack would work or interfer with the pipes. No problems with the frame setting on jack and clearing pipes. You do have to leave the kickstand extended though as it does interfer but no big deal.
Harbor Freight Lift setup
 
Just make sure you keep that jack screw well lubed - I found out the hard way. I see you have a 1970 BSA Thunderbolt in the background. I also own a 1970 Thunderbolt and have had it since I was in high school back in 1974. Someday I hope to get the time to restore it.
 
Thanks for mentioning that, I'll grease it up good tomorrow. I took the Thunderbolt out for a good ride last week. Totally different character than the Commando. Really pleasant to plunk along on a 2 lane at about 55-60. Seems like it would roll along for ever at that rate. Get it up above 60 it starts to get pretty buzzy, just when Commando is coming into its own. Each one has its own sweet spot. 750 Bonneville cruises really nicely 65-70 but get above that it gets pretty vibey.
Haven't had the Trident running yet, but hoping it will be a highway bomber like Commando.
 
RE:
Haven't had the Trident running yet, but hoping it will be a highway bomber like Commando.
Click to expand...
It will be. The sound alone is memorable, distinctive and addictive.
They are a bit cammy, smooth and progressive at low to medium revs, but from 4500 to 7200 rpm the triple's motor will make you feel like a teenager again. A sorted out triple is a very rewarding ride at speeds at and above hwy cruising, besides being very responsive town bike when you let it sing. :!: :arrow: :D
 
Nice set up, what brand is the screw jack? I think I need to add that to my set up.

Chuck
 
htown16 said:
I took the Thunderbolt out for a good ride last week. Totally different character than the Commando. Really pleasant to plunk along on a 2 lane at about 55-60. Seems like it would roll along for ever at that rate. Get it up above 60 it starts to get pretty buzzy
Click to expand...

I find that the old BSA Thunderbolt is a really comfortable bike to ride. In my youth vibrations were the norm and I used to go much faster than 55-60 on a regular basis. :)
 
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