Halfway rearsets anyone?

robs ss

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I think I put the dimensions on the original thread. Apart from the ease of fitting the best bit is that the harder you press on the brake lever the tighter the bracket is held. You need to make sure that the opening on hook part continues around so clears the edge of the machined recess in the footrest hangar. (It will become obvious when you look closely at it).
Thanks cliffa - where did you attach the spring to the brake lever - couldn't see that in the photos?
I was thinking of drilling a small hole a bit below the cable connection bracket.
 

cliffa

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Thanks cliffa - where did you attach the spring to the brake lever - couldn't see that in the photos?
I was thinking of drilling a small hole a bit below the cable connection bracket.
That would work for you , but I just bent it around the front of the lever as the hole will start to rust if it's not being re-plated.
 

robs ss

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Yep - I will be having all parts replaced after welding, etc - so I may as well do it that way!
 

robs ss

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Have done about 100 miles and the verdict is... much better!
You can see FE's thoughts on parallel torso and lower leg - he may be right?
(still brake switch, gear linkage and chroming to do)
Here's before and after pics:

Position - before.jpg
Position - after.jpg
 

Fast Eddie

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That looks SO right Rob, it makes the stock pegs look SO wrong !

Surely, after this you have run out of things to meddle with ??
 

cliffa

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The riding position looks much better. An added bonus for the onlooker is that the front frame tubes, exhaust down pipes and your lower leg are now almost parallel. I think it’s definitely more comfortable having spine and lower leg parallel on any bike. On my Interstate I got it closer by it by fitting the ”Semi Western” bars, but the pegs still feel too far forward. Any chance of some pics of the bike without you on it Rob?

cheers and well done!
cliffa.
 

robs ss

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Thanks to @cliffa I have made my own cliffa-hanger and mounted the brake-switch (genuine Honda - ex-ebay).
Didn't like the look of the plastic switch on the bike so reamed the brass body of an old throttle cable-splitter and used it as an external sleeve.
Works very well!
PS - cliffa, I drilled a small hole in the cable-end "saddle" to hook the spring into.
Brake switch.JPG
 

gortnipper

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I used to do that with the rear as I had no switch on the front. Until I moved to NZ where the inspection forces you to have functioning switches for both.
 

cliffa

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Thanks to @cliffa I have made my own cliffa-hanger and mounted the brake-switch (genuine Honda - ex-ebay).
Didn't like the look of the plastic switch on the bike so reamed the brass body of an old throttle cable-splitter and used it as an external sleeve.
Works very well!
PS - cliffa, I drilled a small hole in the cable-end "saddle" to hook the spring into.
View attachment 79938
Very professional Rob!!
 

cliffa

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I always use the rear brake in slow moving traffic (better for balance) so for me a rear switch is essential. Oh and it's mandatory here too.
 

ashman

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Here in our state we have no mandatory inspections and only safety inspections when selling for the new owner, I only run one brake light switch on my rear.
 

robs ss

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I'm about to embark on making the "four-bar" linkage for the gear shift but was looking at it and thought (dangerous - I know!)...
What if I shortened the gear lever by a third (2") and angled it down a bit. I'm pretty sure my toes would reach it and it would be a lot simpler than the linkage approach. You would require less "throw" but more force.
My question to forum members is - has anyone else shortened the shift lever by this much, and, if so - does it cause problems?
Cheers
Rob
 
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