Frame paint - epoxy spray can

I’ve been recommended to use rustoleum with a Hardener, I haven’t tried it yet but it comes highly recommended.

Devondan said:

I’ve been recommended to use rustoleum with a Hardener, I haven’t tried it yet but it comes highly recommended.

Rustoleum Enamel Hardener – How To Use And Why Is It Good?

In this article, we are talking about Rustoleum enamel hardener and why it is good to use this mixrure for protecting your paintjob.

paintsgeek.com

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The alkyd accelerator is designed for the Industrial V7400 and D2500 Rustoleum alkyd systems. They are isocyanate blends. The article you refer to is written by non-technical people that quite frankly do not understand the chemistry. If the isocycanates are salts, the dangers of toxicity is somewhat less, but still should be handled with a chemical respirator. The effectiveness of isocycanate accellerators in an alkyd with epoxide functionality may be (and likely is) totally different than in the V7400 and D2500. Not all "hardeners" or "accelerators" are the same chemically. They are designed for the system in which they are used.

Years ago PBS was doing an interview with a graffiti artist (vandal) in NY city who was infamous for his work on subway cars. In his best NY accent he told the reporter that "First ya gotta boost a couple cans of Rustoleum, one can of that is worth 3 cans of your shit paint".

So there's one of the best and accurate testimonials I ever heard.

I usually use a quick spray of SEM self etch on bare metal. You can top coat it in minutes.

JimNH said:

Years ago PBS was doing an interview with a graffiti artist (vandal) in NY city who was infamous for his work on subway cars. In his best NY accent he told the reporter that "First ya gotta boost a couple cans of Rustoleum, one can of that is worth 3 cans of your shit paint".

So there's one of the best and accurate testimonials I ever heard.

I usually use a quick spray of SEM self etch on bare metal. You can top coat it in minutes.

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That's why, when I was working in Gilroy, CA, the Home Depot paint shelves were locked in a cage. Filthy animals.

When I built the driveway gates for our place I used an epoxy paint called Epoguard. This was in 1990, so it has had 33 years continously in the wind,snow,rain and sun.

I started in by hauling all of the iron work to a Commercial sandblaster who operated a big unit out in a farm field. He said he would need a week, so I left the loaded flat deck trailer there for him to go to work on.
After 2 weeks I stopped by and he hadn't touched the gates. After a month, still nothing so I went back with the truck and hooked onto the trailer while he watched.
I bought a small wet sandblast unit that works with a pressure washer. It works very well. Sharp sand in a jet of water at 4000 psi is very effective at removing mill scale.
Nonetheless, that was a big job as there are two driveways, each with an 18 foot gate plus about 40' of ornamental iron work in between.
I really did not want the problem of flaking rusty iron work to become an issue. Next I hauled all of the ironwork into a commercial company that does galvanizing. I planned to paint over the galvanized metal with an appropriate top coat . The company had given me a very reasonable quote ($600?) to hot dip galvanize everything.
After a couple of weeks they phoned to say that the pieces were too big to fit their tanks, even though I had questioned this before hauling the load in there. Oh well . Forget galvanized, onto epoxy. Haul the gates home again!
The epoguard primer was a 2 part system. By working fast , I was able to brush it on, which probably gave a better result than spraying, as far as getting into every nook and cranny.

After the primer had cured I used Epoguard topcoat in black gloss finish.
This was also a two part paint and I brushed it on.
I did not realize the the Epoguard top coat was maybe not the best thing for a top coat. It did contain some UV inhibitors according to the label, but after a couple of years it was looking quite chalky.
We remedied this with a topcoat of Rustoleum gloss black enamel, once again brushed on.
Since then we have repainted with Rustoleum twice. All that has been required for prep is cleaning with a pressure washer. There hasn't been any loose paint at all. Not bad for 33 years directly in the weather!

Glen

Just painted a BSA swing arm and a rear hub with Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy, I took a couple photos of the swing arm, I did not of the rear hub. What surprised me about the paint is how well it held up after I painted it and let it cure. I let the hub sit for a few days prior to installing the bearings The paint held up well to the bearing install, including a hiccup in the install process.

I will throw out another paint recommendation for engines by a company called, Regis:

maaseyracer said:

Just painted a BSA swing arm and a rear hub with Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy, I took a couple photos of the swing arm, I did not of the rear hub. What surprised me about the paint is how well it held up after I painted it and let it cure. I let the hub sit for a few days prior to installing the bearings The paint held up well to the bearing install, including a hiccup in the install process.

I will throw out another paint recommendation for engines by a company called, Regis:

Universal Black Engine Paint - RG-42

Universal Black Engine Paint - RG-42

regismanufacturing.com

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-- used rustoleum gloss black on my BSA + other projects. i usually don't try to over-restore things, so IMO, rustoleum gives a good OE finish. it's probably better than anything the factory used back in the day anyway. as most know, it's all in the prep.

Elfix said:

My issue with most spray paints has been their extended drying and recoat times- Rustoleum appears to be especially sensitive to this and can be prone to crazing and lifting if recoated too early. I regularly give sensitive items 4-6 days of cure time before risking a respray- especially if I need to tape a paint line.

Much of this is likely due to my location and the fact that my work area tends to be chilly, so your results may be a lot more positive than mine.

For my present project I will be trying out SprayMax 2-part sprays… these allegedly cure fast, spray well, and are very durable, but can be harder to source and are $3x the cost.

Will report back with results.

It’s this stuff:

2K Topcoat Black - SprayMax

www.spraymax.com

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That Spraymax stuff is great

jimbo said:

That Spraymax stuff is great

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I use Spraymax on gas tanks, their auto paints and clear coats are tough to beat. I have gone entirely to Regis engine black for cylinders and engines.

For frames Jim's recommendation for Rustoleum Appliance paint is my new go to. I struggled at first with the rustoleum as it requires very light initial coats, but I figured it out quickly.

maaseyracer said:

I use Spraymax on gas tanks, their auto paints and clear coats are tough to beat. I have gone entirely to Regis engine black for cylinders and engines.

For frames Jim's recommendation for Rustoleum Appliance paint is my new go to. I struggled at first with the rustoleum as it requires very light initial coats, but I figured it out quickly.

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never used spraymax, but on my next project, i'm going to try the spraymax 2K gloss black for the frame. as for rustoleum and very light coats, i've found that an initial tack coat, followed by a medium wet coat, and finished with a full wet coat, all with normal flash times seems to work well. this is pretty much the norm and seems to work for anything from rattle cans to base/clear (although clear only requires a medium wet followed by a full wet).

You don’t get to show pictures of a Yankee case cover and not tell us about the rest of the bike. Even if this is a Norton forum.

Cool is cool!

For those that have used the Rustoleum Appliance Enamel, have you found it to have any fuel/chemical resistance after its cured? I've used the Spraymax 2k Clear on tanks for its chemical resistance and was planning on using the 2k gloss black on a frame, but the Rustoleum is easier to get and cheaper. I would hate to have any fluke drips or splashes ruin a perfectly good frame paint job though.

Trevor Hallam said:

For those that have used the Rustoleum Appliance Enamel, have you found it to have any fuel/chemical resistance after its cured? I've used the Spraymax 2k Clear on tanks for its chemical resistance and was planning on using the 2k gloss black on a frame, but the Rustoleum is easier to get and cheaper. I would hate to have any fluke drips or splashes ruin a perfectly good frame paint job though.

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That’s a good question.

If you think about it, why would appliance paint have ANY intentional resistance to fuel, chemicals, etc ??

Ethanol resistance: I have just read on an aeromodellers forum that Rustins “Plastic Coating” is good for that.
It is a UK-made clear two part lacquer, usually used for wooden floors/ table tops etc.
I have used it several times on wood, and it is a very tough coating. Yet to test it with ethanol....
as I need something for the gearbox cradle to it protect from carb drips.

Why, wouldn't you choose a genuine, DuPont Emron two-part epoxy, intended for UV & chemical resistance?


Instead of make believe washing machine paint?

A user friendly product regardless of brand that I reccomend is a 2 pack Acrylic Urethane (Colour or clear coat)....with a fast tack off time and the durability of the Urethane component
Once fully cured universal thinners has trouble comprising the coating...epoxy are robust as well ...but the UV inhibitors with some of the epoxies is questionable...Engineered Siloxane epoxies are the best in the business as a hi performance coating

I just recently found out that the sandable primer to use for epoxy appliance paint is Krylon "colormaxx" primer. I also tested the exoxy appliance paint against UV by leaving a painted piece out in the sun this summer - no problem with fading because its not really epoxy - they just call it that. This paint is more durable, & longer lasting than regular enamel but you have to go with a thin 1st coat and use the primer if you have bare metal spots showing through previous coats of paint to avoid lifting and crazing.