Frame paint?

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I'm leaving Peel's worn down hard to read stem tag as evidence she's had a long hard life prior. The tag on her is actually in the way of welding crash cage braces on, but couldn't figure out another mounting location so will just trim a notch out of the way, then rattle can paint. It will definitely be an eye sore compared to the rest of the finish.
 
I used PPG Concept DCC 9300 Black. Its a urethane enamel, easy to apply, hard and high-temp (used it on the Ranger cylinder barrel). It touches up easily.

A guy I know who owns and restores a lot of bikes (200+) swears by this stuff. He runs a museum for his bikes and his boss' bikes and cars.

Here's Dave and Bill's place:
http://www.specializedmotorsllc.com/motorcycles.php
 
maylar said:
Geeto 67 said:
this is one of those times where close enough isn't good enough.

Why?

Because I said so. Or rather when I own a spray gun and have access to a real booth a rattle can doesn't qualify as "close enoungh"

Call me a stickler for detail - I would just like to have the correct original finish. nothing wrong with a rattle can - used them for years, just don't want to use them on something as special as the dunstall.
 
A tid bit of info from big sids vincati book... Theres a section in the book where he describes the HRD/Vincent factory as dipping the frames in paint!
 
A lot of bikes that were stove enamelled were dipped prior to the frames going into the enamelling ovens. When this practice stopped would be interesting to know.
Sometime in the 1960s ?
You can still get parts done in traditional baked enamel, maybe it still continues ??
Anyone had anything stoved lately ?

Someones memoirs detail that their first job as a lad at one of the factories was to cut off the baked drips on the lower part of the frames, and dab a little black enamel onto it to tidy it up. Can't recall who wrote this, but if you look at enough dipped enamel parts, you see runs and drips and see what they mean. I have a few stray nos enamel parts 50s and early 60s, and they clearly have been dipped, much thicker enamel along the lower edges.. (headlamp brackets and small mudguard bits).

P.S. Model T's were hosed with lacquer, over a big bath that collected all the runoff. Lacquer dried pretty quick, in comparison to vehicles that were enamel brush painted, and then wait days to dry ! (cars were too big to put into ovens). The era of mass production had arrived...
 
I worked in the Raleigh bicycle factory and we were still dipping frames in the mid 70s. About that time Raleigh put in a state of the art electrostatic frame paint plant, much thinner even coats and much less waste, the paint just stuck where it was needed.

I think they were still baked though, it was always a very tough gloss finish plus some very clever hand lining on the traditional roadster frames
 
A guess as to why factories stopped dipping cars and motorcycles ... as spray equipment, especially robots, improved, properly set up spray booth uses less total paint because coating is much thinner and more uniform. Uniform coating is important if you are running units through baking oven on assembly line basis. Note that the factory is interested in faster production and paint that lasts just long enough for the warrenty to expire. Done correctly, sprying works at least as well as dipping. If corners are skimped, then we get pre-mature rusting. Just a guess.
 
Geeto 67 said:
maylar said:
Geeto 67 said:
this is one of those times where close enough isn't good enough.

Why?

Because I said so. Or rather when I own a spray gun and have access to a real booth a rattle can doesn't qualify as "close enoungh"

Call me a stickler for detail - I would just like to have the correct original finish. nothing wrong with a rattle can - used them for years, just don't want to use them on something as special as the dunstall.

Rattle cans aside, you were inquiring about the level of gloss in the factory finish. I've never been told by judges that my frame was too shiny.

I, too, use "real" paint not rattle cans. An airbrush is a wonderful tool for frame touchup.
 
BillT said:
I used PPG Concept DCC 9300 Black. Its a urethane enamel, easy to apply, hard and high-temp (used it on the Ranger cylinder barrel). It touches up easily.

Concept is single stage urethane automotive paint. AFAIK it's not "high-temp". Interesting that you've used it on cylinders with success. I have some Glasurit 22-Line single stage black that I use for the frame, I wonder if it'd hold up on a Commando cylinder. Hmm...
 
gtsun said:
I striped a P11 frame back around 1980 and tried Jasco stripper. I ended up using a friends sand blaster to realy get it clean. My guess is it was some kind of enamal with a catalist & possiblely baked. Any modern paint you use is going to loose a fair amount of it's gloss in a year or two so take that into consideration. What about contacting some people who bought those bikes that turned up still in the crates & see what that paint looked like???

Unless they try to make a cheap produce, most of the British motorcycle industry in the 1970s where stove enamelling their frames, hence a shot blast or a hard wire rotary brush id the beat way to remove the enamel.

Modern paint available is two pack or powder coating, but make sure paint is petrol/gas proof :!:
HTH.
 
maylar said:
Rattle cans aside, you were inquiring about the level of gloss in the factory finish. I've never been told by judges that my frame was too shiny.

I, too, use "real" paint not rattle cans. An airbrush is a wonderful tool for frame touchup.

I used to work for a shop that restored corvettes to NCRS and Bloomington Gold standards. Believe it or not there are different grade of gloss for different cars/years and you can be told it is too shiny. For example 1966-67 GTO engine bays use 70% gloss. Compared to the semi-gloss chevy used on some of their cars that stuff sparkles but compared to the black paint on the wife's audi, it looks industrial.

I know there isn't a specific judging for this stuff and not really a standard either, but you will always get some know it all at a show who will shoot off his mouth saying "that bike's been repainted and it isn't right" and honestly if I have to listen to him I kinda want drop bickloads of knowledge on him about % gloss and method and dress him down on the spot. Chances are though this bike will probably make one or two shows a year so it isn't really a concern.

I am a freak for details and really I just want it to come out right. all the bikes I have owned always had a semi-gloss or semi flat frame but that is probably because nobody waxes a frame and a lot of japanese and american frame paint is single stage and usually oxidized to hell by the time I get it.
 
Just saw a documentary of a rich couple picking up their new AMG at the Mercedes Benz factory, showed frames being dipped in paint.? FYI. Also 67' GTO's are the shit!
 
I have seen up close at Baxter's Cycle's in Iowa a barn find total untouched down to every neatly arranged Lucas bullet in loom to see when tank lifted and dust wiped off to reveal a polished black patent leather gloss smooth gleam from frame. A clear coat would be the rattle can way to achieve this after buffing well. One nick on power coat and no way to hide from close inspect or some angles of viewing. i wonder what CNW uses as all their finished are knock outs in many colors besides black. As Peel is OIF I'll have various slogans on under coat that wil appear as the oil heats up the thermal color change paint applied from spray can for furture touch ups and clear coat over.
 
Your right about the powder coat nicking. Just scratched my rear hoop last night removing my new seat!! F__K!!! Jameson might have played a role.
 
If it's scratched, it means it's getting used.

Someone on the forum here mentioned that he worked on taking Nortons out of their boxes from the factory and they were glossy black. Mine was glossy the day I brought it home from the powder coat. Never been the same since, but I doubt if paint would have held up any better or been any easier to brush the rustolium on when things get scratched or rubbed off.

Dave
69S
 
I painted a frame on a '76 Honda CB 360 with a can of satin or semi gloss Rustoleum. I used a good quality brush and it went on nice and smooth. No brush marks and has a pretty resilient finish that when needed is an easy touch up.

When I stripped the Norton to the frame with engine still in, there were some scratched area that were rusting. I used the same paint to do some touch up and it matched pretty damn close. Certainly from 5 feet away, it looks fine. I was in the process of making it run and was not worrying about 'pretty'. This winter I think I will take it down to the frame and use the same paint and method for painting it. I will not win any ribbons with my bike, but that is not the goal.
 
I am curious, from the standpoint of doing a serious restoration (be it car or bike) is it considered better to represent the vehicle as it would look coming off the assembly line or as a well cared for survivor with graceful patina?

Russ
 
rvich said:
I am curious, from the standpoint of doing a serious restoration (be it car or bike) is it considered better to represent the vehicle as it would look coming off the assembly line or as a well cared for survivor with graceful patina?

Russ


I have always thought a 'restoration' indicates it should look as if it was on the show room floor.
 
That's the thing about black frames. I can't even see the rustolium I've put on my powder coat from about 5'. It just all fades to black. But then I'm not worried about it being a museum piece. As long as it works, is functional and doesn't rust, looking half way decent is good too.

Dave
69S
 
rvich said:
I am curious, from the standpoint of doing a serious restoration (be it car or bike) is it considered better to represent the vehicle as it would look coming off the assembly line or as a well cared for survivor with graceful patina?

Russ


My boss at the corvette shop used to say: "if you are going to touch it at all, touch all of it".

People like shiny, even in patina'ed vehicles the more shiney and presentable it is the more money and interest it commands. People just don't like rusty junk, and wives and other forms of significant others who could care less about our passion for cars/bikes/airplanes/boats/old fishing lures/guns/or what have you will only see value in something that looks next to new.

I think the corvette restoration hobby really set the standard for patina vehicles when they created "survivor" car category and bench mark category. Forgive any inaccuracies because I am doing this from memory and haven't worked in that hobby in at least 15 years. To qualify as a survivor you start with a 100 point car and deduct for replacement parts, incorrect items, and restoration attempts over the year. This is not a cosmetic quality - the car can be 30 percent primer in spots over the original paint or have rust all over it, the weatherstriping could be crumbling but if it has the correct date code it doesn't lose points. Benchmark cars are cars (again regardless of condition) that come out as 95% or more original. These cars are used to judge other cars, esp the restored cars and even on things like factory overspray.

here is where it gets fun. When judging restored cars the closer you get to a factory benchmark overspray pattern, the more "correct" it is considered - even if that car did not actually have that same overspray pattern. We used to have templates (more than one for specific years) to hit all the spots with overspray in the same manner as the factory did in the same pattern.

I have always said that corvette people set the standard for vehicle restoration as a mental illness or a religion (depending on which you think is worse). A restored car isn't the one who is judged - it is really the restorer. You are awarded points if you do things EXACTLY as the factory did them, and if you pass muster you car is deemed as good as people remember them as being new (even if the nostalgic standard means the car is actually better than new). If you can do it better than GM to look like it came from GM then you are exalted to the alter of GM the god via a little plastic trophy and a high resale value on what is basically an unuseable car.

I once found a tall boy wedged into the frame of mid year stingray when taking it apart. It had obviously been shoved there by an assembly line worker and I joked to my boss and the car owner maybe I should restore the can and put it back. Neither of them laughed (my boss laughed later but at the time he wasn't sure which way the customer would go) and the car owner thought about it a second and said - "make sure it gets back there during reassembly".

This is the enviornment that I cut my teeth on in the automotive hobby, but it has an intrinsic and valuable lession. Money chases pretty. The difference in monetary value between a fresh out of the barn 1965 fuelie vette and a perfectly restored one is usually less than 5%. The restored car costs more to create, but is useable as a new car. The original unrestored car gathers more ooohs and ahs from that "type" but you have to use it gingerly because you might toss your date coded original and dry rotted delco fanbelt. Compare this to an unrestored car that looks like shit - the monetary value is gaping, usually over 50% difference in value.

A word on fauxtina: I like this new trend if you are really an artist. Too man schmucks try to do this now because it seems cheap (it actually isn't), but in reality if you are going to do it you have to go for the gusto. A ratty looking standard norton pulled from a barn isn't going to turn heads at all, esp if mechanically it is a new bike. However a lettered up ex racer with interesting (and sometimes homemade) parts that winks at the viewer and lets them in on the inside joke - well that is gold, and it is gold dipped in platnum if you can use it to fool all the cafe bandwagon 20 something douchebags that have flooded into the hobby recently and only care about how cool a bike looks.

don't confuse fauxtina with a bike that is built to a specific use and uses non standard materials because they are best suited for the job. If I built a real authentic desert sled and used bed liner on the frame, and made a ton of skid plates out of....ahem...salvaged road signs, and then proceded to ride the bike in the desert - then that isn't patina, that's character, which has its own value as well.
 
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