Four position Ignition Switch (2011)

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chaztuna said:
If your battery is low, that extra electrical draw having the lights on may prevent the engine from starting. Always have a way to power the coils and NOT the lights. This is an absolute if you want your Mk 3 starter to work! :cool:
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Well it's a MkIII engine with no electric leg and all the lights are LED. Without the bright/dim switch (originally a t/s switch) being flipped up or down, the only draw would be the pilot light, the gauge lights and taillight-all LEDS. And it still has the largest battery fitted. With the powered-up Mk III alternator, I think it will work.
 
Danno said:
Well it's a MkIII engine with no electric leg and all the lights are LED. Without the bright/dim switch (originally a t/s switch) being flipped up or down, the only draw would be the pilot light, the gauge lights and taillight-all LEDS. And it still has the largest battery fitted. With the powered-up Mk III alternator, I think it will work.
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When you say "largest battery fitted" do you mean the 14 amp/hour battery that fits the stock Mk 3 battery tray? Or have you switched to a 750 battery tray and a Harley 20 amp/hour battery?
 
chaztuna said:
When you say "largest battery fitted" do you mean the 14 amp/hour battery that fits the stock Mk 3 battery tray? Or have you switched to a 750 battery tray and a Harley 20 amp/hour battery?
Click to expand...

14AH gel in altered Mk III tray. I was concerned about what the high-output 2-wire alternator would do to a smaller battery. 20 AH would be serious overkill on a kickstart machine.
 
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