Fork Fiber Washer Question

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jul 17, 2015
Messages
597
When reassembling the front forks, is there any prep necessary for new bottom of the slider NMT814 (item 26) fiber washers such as soaking them in oil, or do they go in dry? I'm also wondering about how to keep the damper tube from turning when tightening the bolt coming into it from the bottom. Is that a problem?
Thanks, Bill
 
pantah_good said:
When reassembling the front forks, is there any prep necessary for new bottom of the slider NMT814 (item 26) fiber washers such as soaking them in oil, or do they go in dry? I'm also wondering about how to keep the damper tube from turning when tightening the bolt coming into it from the bottom. Is that a problem?
Thanks, Bill
No prep needed to the fiber washers. They are impermeable. Test fit your bottom bolts before install to verify that they screw in all the way and easily. You should have no issuses.
You should also put the washer securely on the bottom af the dampers making sure they don't slip off when putting them down the tube.
 
Just put in Lansdowne cartridges a month or so ago, the very first step in my looooooong awaited rebuild (and will take a loooong time.) I preface my comments by saying it is my first time attempting a bike, forks are a new thing to me. However, mine weeped at the bottom on the first shot once buttoned up. Let them sit a couple of days to soak the seals and tightened, still weeped. I questioned the same thing about seal conformability in my mind, however, I decided to give it one more shot. So I drained them, tore them down, and started over, and went to cleaning them up again. I found that the bottom inner surface of the slider is critical to be clean. I had cleaned these sliders a few times, polished them, et. used hot water and soaked them and whatnot. However the last time, I took a bit of a larger diameter welding rod (like for gas welding - think thick coat hanger wire) and sanded it flat on the end, but left the edges sharp. I did the sanding because I did not want to score the bottom of the slider mating surface. I ran that around the bottom surface after soaking in very hot water and got out on both a dried out fillet on the outer edge of the bottom mating surface, a ring of some dried out stuff - kind of yellowed clearish hard stuff if I remember correctly. Now my bike was a total basket case, so whatever was in there on teardown was some dried out stuff - forks were dry as a bone when I tore them down. Reassembled and all looks good, but only on the motorcycle stand and hand pumped up and down a bit, not ridden yet. The lesson I learned is the seemingly hard gaskets on the end do the job if the mating surface on the slider is nice and clean - will find out for sure once I ride it and exercise those forks.
 
Thank you rwalker, that is very helpful info. My fork reassembly is actually on hold while I wait for new damper rods and damper tube caps to arrive from Old Britts. I had been doing some more fork rebuilding research on this forum and had read a warning to replace the damper rods if they were pitted. Mine were very rusty and pitted really badly, but I had thought if I just cleaned them up good, they'd be ok to reuse and save that money. But after realizing that those two parts are what control rebound, I ordered new ones. And after reading your reply, I'm going to make sure there there is nothing left in that bottom counter-bore in the sliders. However, I think I'll use an aluminum rod to check that bottom surface. I have some big old aluminum knitting needles in my tool box that have come in very handy over the years for various motorcycle projects. This is another example of how good this forum is, and I think I'll be chipping in for VIP membership shortly, thanks again.
Bill
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top