First time going deep – Gear Box.

I think I’m ready for reassembly when parts arrive. But that gives time for mission creep. While the bike is off the road and on the lift, I’m doing the Kegler swingarm mod. I was too ignorant to do it a year ago when I replaced the swingarm spindle & bushes. But that’s another story.
 

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Back fill complete. That brings it up to date. Next week I plan to start reassembly.
If anyone notices anything I need to know about, please let me know.
 
Definitely replace the pawl. Cheap insurance for trouble free shifting, especially with that damage to the plate.

Freeze the sleeve gear bearing overnight and heat the shell with the gun and it should slip in.

Also freeze the layshaft and heat the inner race of the roller bearing to install on the shaft prior to installing the shaft.

That kickstart shaft inner push is a bugger.

Good resources as well as the dvd:


 
Definitely replace the pawl. Cheap insurance for trouble free shifting, especially with that damage to the plate.
I did order a new pawl and will replace the old one.
Freeze the sleeve gear bearing overnight and heat the shell with the gun and it should slip in.
I did that last try, but I'll try again with the drift.
Also freeze the layshaft and heat the inner race of the roller bearing to install on the shaft prior to installing the shaft.

That kickstart shaft inner push is a bugger.

Good resources as well as the dvd:


Thanks for the resources & info.
 
Next, removed layshaft bearing with blind bearing puller & heat gun.
Installed the new roller bearing. When I pulled the new bearing out of its package, I guess I wasn’t careful enough, and the inner race popped out before I could see which way it was oriented. I’m not sure I put it back the way it came. I hope that does not matter, cause its in there like that now.
Make sure the roller bearing inner race has its shoulder to the interior of the gearbox. The inner race should then be removable to install on the end of the layshaft.

FWIW - I had to dress the inside of the race slightly with fine wet dry so it would fit even with frozen shaft and warmed race.
 
+1 on a new pawl.

+1 on the Old Britts guide.

I'm not sold that the roller bearing for the layshaft is the way to go. I did on my gearbox but next time I'm in a gearbox I might just find a higher quality ball bearing.
 
So, a year & a half ago I revived my 1971 Roadster that I bought in 1973. It was my only mode of transportation until 1976, and a frequent rider after that until 1981 when I parked it after I took it in to a shop for a tune up and instead they removed the head and cylinders, telling me it needed rings. I went and picked it up like that, knowing that I could do my own ring job if it really needed it. Well, life got in the way, and I never touched the bike, except to move it with me when I moved. For 38 years it looked like this….View attachment 17004View attachment 17004
Nick, please put me out of my misery. I've been racking my brains trying to identify the car in your picture. Judging by the chrome bumpers and over riders and what look like Lucas reflectors I'm guessing low volume British fibre glass sports car, but I cannot put my finger on which one. ( of course i am probably completely wrong)
 
Nick, please put me out of my misery. I've been racking my brains trying to identify the car in your picture. Judging by the chrome bumpers and over riders and what look like Lucas reflectors I'm guessing low volume British fibre glass sports car, but I cannot put my finger on which one. ( of course i am probably completely wrong)

Shoot, that an easy one. Datsun Roadster.

First time going deep – Gear Box.


Much like other things they copied from the British.
 
I don't which is better either Dave. I had one of each when I did the 750 box.
Put the roller in, I'll use the MH ball bearing when I do the 850.
I also simply eliminated the inner gasket to bring the kicker/layshaft within spec.
Easier than shims. I used 518 for the sealant.

Looking at the Shock Proof inside the case, not sure if its good or bad.
Looks like a mess.

Carry on Nick, you're doing well.
 
I don't which is better either Dave. I had one of each when I did the 750 box.
Put the roller in, I'll use the MH ball bearing when I do the 850.
I also simply eliminated the inner gasket to bring the kicker/layshaft within spec.
Easier than shims. I used 518 for the sealant.

Looking at the Shock Proof inside the case, not sure if its good or bad.
Looks like a mess.

Carry on Nick, you're doing well.

We need @comnoz to do a gearbox oil test, is the higher drag and extra heat of the thicker oils worth the protection? I mean, when he has some free time. :p
 
Shoot, that an easy one. Datsun Roadster.

First time going deep – Gear Box.


Much like other things they copied from the British.
WOW !! how wrong could I be. Thanks for that Dave, it's a beauty. Apparently it's a Fairlady. I have never seen of heard of them before. I thought Nissan's were only called Datsun in the U.K. though? As you say, one of variants is the spitting image of an MG-B

Cheers,

cliffa.
 
WOW !! how wrong could I be. Thanks for that Dave, it's a beauty. Apparently it's a Fairlady. I have never seen of heard of them before. I thought Nissan's were only called Datsun in the U.K. though? As you say, one of variants is the spitting image of an MG-B

Cheers,

cliffa.

Not sure if I would use the word "beauty" which I would reserve for an MGB or Austin-Healy. Datsun was the name up 1986 for all exports. Then they switched to Nissan for everywhere.
 
Nick, please put me out of my misery. I've been racking my brains trying to identify the car in your picture. Judging by the chrome bumpers and over riders and what look like Lucas reflectors I'm guessing low volume British fibre glass sports car, but I cannot put my finger on which one. ( of course i am probably completely wrong)
Funny, you are the 2nd member to ask about that. That photo was taken at the shop I was using at that time. That car was being worked on while I was there but I don't remember what it was. Seems Swooshdave has it nailed.
 
I don't which is better either Dave. I had one of each when I did the 750 box.
Put the roller in, I'll use the MH ball bearing when I do the 850.
I also simply eliminated the inner gasket to bring the kicker/layshaft within spec.
Easier than shims. I used 518 for the sealant.

Looking at the Shock Proof inside the case, not sure if its good or bad.
Looks like a mess.

Carry on Nick, you're doing well.
Thanks MichaelB. I switched to Redline because I found a lot of rust above the oil level inside the outer case during the revival. The redline does cover everything, but I agree it looks messy. Fortunately, nobody sees it when the covers are on.
 
We need @comnoz to do a gearbox oil test, is the higher drag and extra heat of the thicker oils worth the protection? I mean, when he has some free time. :p
True.

Buit he did say this on a thread:
comnoz said:
I only used Redline Shockproof for a year. I don't remember what weight it was or even if there were different weights at that time. I would guess it was 15 years ago.
It did stop any migration of the oil down the input shaft, but when I found the bushing was loose and pulled it apart I found the outer bushings were dry and the shaft was blue from heat. I went back to ATF and have stayed with it since.

If it's good enough for the manual trans in this, it's good enough for me.

First time going deep – Gear Box.
I used to run normal 90w until my rebuild when I switched to Lightweight Shockproof. But after reading Jim's comments and doing some digging which found some conflicting reviews, I switched again and am now running Redline MT90 since it is GL-4.
 
WOW !! how wrong could I be. Thanks for that Dave, it's a beauty. Apparently it's a Fairlady. I have never seen of heard of them before. I thought Nissan's were only called Datsun in the U.K. though? As you say, one of variants is the spitting image of an MG-B

Cheers,

cliffa.
I asked the same question, fully expecting the answer to be early Italian... Lancia perhaps? Pretty wide of the mark here, too!
 
On another thread I mentioned my way of removing the kick start bush is screw in a 3/4-16 tap and the bush jacks out. A trick I learned 35-40 years ago in the Norton Club. Of course it destroys the bush.

First time going deep – Gear Box.
 
On another thread I mentioned my way of removing the kick start bush is screw in a 3/4-16 tap and the bush jacks out. A trick I learned 35-40 years ago in the Norton Club. Of course it destroys the bush.

View attachment 17056
Actually, I tried that too. Didn't budge.
Seems like a lot of variability in the fit of these. I saw on the other thread that some could get it out just by heating it and banging it on a wood block.
 
Got my sleeve bearing drift made.

First time going deep – Gear Box.


I have the new bearing in the freezer, so I'll give the installation a try in a few hours.
First time going deep – Gear Box.


Meanwhile....
Here are the old bearings:
First time going deep – Gear Box.

Something feels funny about replacing British made bearings with Japanese, but this is what came with the AN Gearbox overhaul kit. The layshaft roller bearing was from India.

By the way, can anyone tell me if my old layshaft bearing pictured above was original equipment?
 
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