The cop in the video is trying to keep dive and lift to a minimum as stuffs coming at him nonstop. Even In the faster parts he initiates the next turn at the exit of the previous turn to save energy.
He's letting-making the bike fall into the ground but missing it automagically once the sense of balance and bike reaction engrained. As he lets-makes bike initiate a fall over on its own, the fork expands.
Like fast woods riding. I think if your riding 50 70 mph through winding curves at more or less steady throttle the forks may rise.
My average commuting Gravel Travel is 50-70 in the more open winding curves w/o slip sliding, hardly at all. In this moderate skill-speed condition, one better only steer by tipping the forks sideways to tip bike into direction desired but not trying to put in counter or straight steer, just let the forks road follow either way they want, while dampening out the fork snatch outs. Forks expand on each initial new lean-direction or correction. Forks compress some once lean is set and then some more on relieving lean to more upright stance, unless throttling up away from apex as is about universal then rear thrust lifts front suspension. Watch any off road fast stuff to see they try to keep front unloaded and also straight steering naturally. Camera on helmet that views forks show this the best, they tip forks in direction needed and they straight steer by themselves. Fast off roads can do this because they are in such little traction the bike is litterally falling out from under on rear slipping but front straight steer counters with hi side force to rear stays mostly hooked up and bike mostly upright.
I remember that from an r100 bmw. If you want a real thrill ride my 500 2 stroke with no engine braking. You'll be praying for just that right initial amount of fork dive or attitude adjustment thats so easy to get with the throttle on 4 strokes.
Now there's a groin tightening image! I can imagine what happens if the splash of suspension and throttle response don't click... I was forced to give up on brakes on loose stuff for any slowing that mattered in time of crisis or hot rodding in favor of first reflex to steer wildly - all the way sideways at times so both tires dragging speed down in one direction while rear spun some converts thrust into a new direction, when the braking slide vectors stops bike should pop up on its own w/o full hi side upside down. A really neutral bike will slide w/o changing lean angle, others low side instantly or swap ends till rear snags a hi side, damhik.
Friendly front brakes become important. With no change in velocity or center of gravity countersteering will extend forks because of trail at contact patch but I don't think your finding that with feet on hte axle.
I have been tested and corrected by THE Gravel, to point I can not even grip the front brake in a crisis, my hand instantly feel like a witch given a glowing red hot rod to see how long she blisters to let go. Brakes off road are for delicate conditions not slowing up for going fast, then brakes only change lean angle real fast or which end of bike is pivoting out first.
When you ride logging roads I bet you don't see any rise because you have to shift weight forward to get grip feedback. Grippy pavement makes for a larger variety of possible inputs to get around a turn at less than go to jail speeds. Talent level changes everything.
Boy Howdy not me No Sir Ree Bobeedoo, I get back on bike to unload forks and try to be on power much as I can to unload forks, one so they don't rudder into the rough texture overwhelming the rear aim, or two to clear rough stuff by helping unload the front to float over instead of skip out snatch out bing bam boom. Putting ones feet on the axle or the sliders moving with axle is best way to feel the truth of the matter but a mark and a video camera would show the rest of the world.
Race bikes don't have much travel so hard to see in race video.
Make up a position sensor for fork travel so you dont influence things with weight forward like a stunter. An old lawn mower cable one end zip tied to fork slider, housing zip tied to lower triple, housing cuvred over clocks and other cable end dog legged through a needle with a simple pivot. Fork travel gauge. The more spirited the ride the more dive you'll see.
If ya put a stick on the slider that stuck up near grips you could watch it try to poke ya on initial lean overs. But consider the point of physics you make, if my feet out over the sliders adding some front wt. bias my forks still expand as soon as I initiate a turn either by body english only or by some fork turning one way or the other.
All the above proves to me that the front is only needed to help tip the rear or otherwise just not get in the way of the rear angle and thrust Ruling The Roost so it never ever overwhelms rear by a conflict of traction aiming.