Engine cuts out when gear shift is engage.

If its a euro 3 or euro 4 omex, you can just leave the tilt switch unplugged. I've not tried it on a SC ecu though.
Regards the Omex Tilt switch circuit...I dont really know what's going on in there. I need to have a proper look. It appears that you can just bypass it and apply an earth direct to the ecu relay, the black-red wire. But doing so, yes the relay switches....but then it seems the iacv goes a little nuts. It was only a quick look last night though, I'll give it more attention when I get some more time, as these circuits were known to fail at the factory, and there won't be many replacements floating around.
 
Two Tilt (UP) switches arrived yesterday. I glued one pendulum in place and the other I left as is. Will let you know what happens next time I'm at the bike
 
Stu Bodycote said:
If its a euro 3 or euro 4 omex, you can just leave the tilt switch unplugged. I've not tried it on a SC ecu though.
Regards the Omex Tilt switch circuit...I dont really know what's going on in there. I need to have a proper look. It appears that you can just bypass it and apply an earth direct to the ecu relay, the black-red wire. But doing so, yes the relay switches....but then it seems the iacv goes a little nuts. It was only a quick look last night though, I'll give it more attention when I get some more time, as these circuits were known to fail at the factory, and there won't be many replacements floating around.
Click to expand...
Hopefully we can find a way to get their bikes started if the tilt circuit (flat pack) fails. On the SC ecu version you cannot just unplug the tip over sensor. You must tie the sensor wire low to cheat it out.
 
A quick update. I installed the Cheater (glued pendulum "UP" Switch) and bike now starts on the stand. With the INOA Rally around the corner I'm just going to leave that ziptied to the existing one and button everything back together. I also upgraded the relays to the Honda/Omron variety. I'd actually be done already only to realize the battery strap split and a replacement needed. I ordered a Royal Enfield one as it was the only 12" I could find at short notice.
 
speirmoor said:
A quick update. I installed the Cheater (glued pendulum "UP" Switch) and bike now starts on the stand. With the INOA Rally around the corner I'm just going to leave that ziptied to the existing one and button everything back together. I also upgraded the relays to the Honda/Omron variety. I'd actually be done already only to realize the battery strap split and a replacement needed. I ordered a Royal Enfield one as it was the only 12" I could find at short notice.
Click to expand...
Are you riding the 961 up to the rally, or trailering it?
 
So after all that there has been no improvement. I took the bike out for a shakedown run to ensure it would run without issue but something is acting up. I must have a loose wire or a bad sensor because the bike bogs down intermittently. It never cuts out it just loses power. Looks like I'll be bringing another bike to the rally :(
 
speirmoor said:
So after all that there has been no improvement. I took the bike out for a shakedown run to ensure it would run without issue but something is acting up. I must have a loose wire or a bad sensor because the bike bogs down intermittently. It never cuts out it just loses power. Looks like I'll be bringing another bike to the rally :(
Click to expand...
When you get a chance can you explaain this failure again ? What I am asking is , how long before this happens ? You drive 10 feet or 10 miles , then its ok again until it fails again ?
 
I don’t know what year Speirmoors bike is Tony, but could the intermittent power loss/failure be related to the positive battery lead issue seen previously.

You’ll remember, we had a few bikes (including my 2015) with more than one cable crimped to the positive non-insulated terminal end. Designed to take one cable only of course.

Poor cable security is almost impossible to spot visually, if contact is being broken and remade through vibration. Took me weeks to track it down. I think it would cut out intermittently though, rather than just losing power intermittently. Main fuse security in the positive cable is also problematic.
 
Last edited:
Tony
I wrote this in 2022
www.accessnorton.com

Bike won’t start on the Paddock stand? and even more weird stuff.

Sorry Tony, I must be thick... I’ve never looked inside a tilt sensor, so any changes are not obvious to me! Most are similar, this being from one of my TL1000S's. A handy device should the bike end up on its side.
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com

post#6
"All was good for 60mi on quiet roads but when I hit the highway and opened it up there was a stumble at 4K RPM. Thinking it was a once off I speeded up again and it kept happening. Again and again once I get to 3.7-4K RPM the engine would stumble and bog down. Made it home to also find I had no headlight. Changed that blown fuse and went for a short spin to see if that was related to the engine bogging down but alas no.
What would cause the engine to bog down like that ? a sensor? It starts and idles perfectly."

Now on Saturday I'd only driven a mile or so and it started again. Same symptoms. It never stalls it just wont rev
 
speirmoor said:
So after all that there has been no improvement. I took the bike out for a shakedown run to ensure it would run without issue but something is acting up. I must have a loose wire or a bad sensor because the bike bogs down intermittently. It never cuts out it just loses power. Looks like I'll be bringing another bike to the rally :(
Click to expand...
Oh that’s a bummer:(

Out of interest how do your plugs look?

I can’t remember what year your bike is, but does it have a MAP sensor? It would look similar to this…

Engine cuts out when gear shift is engage.
 

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